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Bypass headlight on/off switch?

  • Thread starter Thread starter ggreenfield
  • Start date Start date
G

ggreenfield

Guest
My headlight just stopped working. Since I've just moved into a new home I've not yet had a chance to really troubleshoot this issue yet but I get no voltage at the headlight connector. Perhaps I'm lucky and it's simply a bad on/off switch. Since I always ride w/ the headlight on anyway it seems unnecessary to me to replace the switch (if in fact that is the problem) so is it possible to wire it for 'always on'? Is there a reason I might not want to do that?
 
Most likely the switch (if that's the problem) simply needs cleaning.

You can use WD-40 or, for best results, get a can of electronics cleaner at your unfriendly local Radio Hut.

But yes, you could also simply bypass the switch safely.

In fact, how'd you get a switch on an '81 model? I though all 1980+ models did not have a headlight switch.
 
Switch

Switch

On mine, the switch is still there but they sent it out of Japland with a switch knob that is locked in place. It's really easy to shave off the part that locks it or you can buy the correct replacement. That's probably what took place on his bike.:)
 
Perhaps you're even luckier and it's just a fuse. Does the tail light come on? How about the gauge lights? On my 850, they all come from the same fuse.

If that is not the problem, then, yes, there is a way to bypass the switch. Trace the wires from the switch, they will probably disappear into the headlight bucket. Find the first connector in each of the wires, disconnect the switch and connect the two remaining connectors.


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bwringer said:
In fact, how'd you get a switch on an '81 model? I though all 1980+ models did not have a headlight switch.
Click to expand...

chuckycheese said:
On mine, the switch is still there but they sent it out of Japland with a switch knob that is locked in place. It's really easy to shave off the part that locks it or you can buy the correct replacement. That's probably what took place on his bike.:)
Click to expand...

My son's '81 450 came with a switch that was blocked off. We disabled the block to have a functional switch. The left grip switch assembly failed on our '82 650L, it was replaced with an assembly from an '81 model. Disabled the switch block on that one, too. Anyhoo, we now have an '82 with a functional headlight switch. \\:D/

By the way, I also have the headlight connected to the third leg of the stator. I have found some interesting results with that. Evidently the stator puts out just a bit more than the headlight consumes, because the voltmeter is about .3 volt higher with the headlight on. :shock:



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My '81 GS750EX has the "off" switch, now whether or not it's the original switch I couldn't tell you......

I had the switch going to the stator as well, but since I did the Honda regulator conversion that has been bypassed.
 
Yeah, I have a Honda regulator too, but since I already had the headlight switch wired in, I thought I would keep it wired stock.


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In most states you are required to have the headlight on at all times.
Doing the modification eliminates some resistance from the extra wires. IT does not effect the ability to turn the light switch off which I do when starting
 
SqDancerLynn1 said:
In most states you are required to have the headlight on at all times.
Click to expand...

Not only that, but I seem to recall that all bikes sold in this country that were manufactured on or after January 1, 1979 were to be equipped so that the headlight came on with the ignition switch. Allowances were made if it waited until after the starter was used (Kawasaki) or went off momentarily when the starter was used (Honda), but all headlights were to be ON when the engine is running.

Well, that's the way the bike was when it left the factory. Can I help it that it's not that way any more? 8-[


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bwringer said:
You can use WD-40 or, for best results, get a can of electronics cleaner at your unfriendly local Radio Hut.
Click to expand...
You are obviously not spending the proper dollar amount to get the friendly service. For low budget you only get the bare minimum grunt. 1 grunt = yes and 2 grunts = no. You can of course get the top level service for free if you bait the salesperson into thinking you are about to spend $1000 but then walk out with a single $25 switch. Next time he'll see you coming and then you get ignored. What more could you want?

In fact, how'd you get a switch on an '81 model? I though all 1980+ models did not have a headlight switch.
Click to expand...
Not sure what the issue is here. I also thought the same and was rather surprised to see a switch but I can see that it might be handy for those low battery/won't start situations. I'll try to clean it up this weekend after my honey-do list is completed (midnight Sunday).
 
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