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cvmgtwowheels
Guest
Sharp looking bike, looks fast standing still. Were are you so I can send you my bike to get done? HA HA!!
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humblepie
Guest
all you need left is some spoke rims and you'll be good..
do you still have that mold for your tail?
do you still have that mold for your tail?
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byrdman76
Guest
all you need left is some spoke rims and you'll be good..
do you still have that mold for your tail?
I would love to find some spoked rims for this bike someday. Right now im just happy its back on the road.
The tail and seat pan was a one off that I carved and shaped from layers of plant foam material. Check out some of BHPPY101's threads as he has some near step by step instructions on how to make your own.
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Druro
Guest
H*nda site.
H*nda site.
There is the following site for H*nda SOHC bikes.
http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php
I have a little CB350F 4cyl (rare... so tough to find parts) that these guys have helped with in the past.
H*nda site.
There is the following site for H*nda SOHC bikes.
http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php
I have a little CB350F 4cyl (rare... so tough to find parts) that these guys have helped with in the past.
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bhppy101
Guest
=D> Very well done Byrdman!!!
It looks amazing!!
It looks amazing!!
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Guyver
Guest
That is simply one of the most beautiful, well-thought out and perfectly executed custom bike jobs I have seen. I liked the gold pin-striping you had going originally as well. I don't know where you have found the time and I can tell you that with kids now you won't, especially with twins. Heaven help you, your life as you knew it is now officially over...but in a good way. Enjoy your blessings!
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Sunburn
Guest
I have two year old twins and a 6 year old. All boys.
Its hard at first. It will get better as time goes on. :-D
Or you just get used to it. :shock:
That is real nice looking bike.
At first I thought it was going to turn out lame.
You did a nice job!
Its hard at first. It will get better as time goes on. :-D
Or you just get used to it. :shock:
That is real nice looking bike.
At first I thought it was going to turn out lame.
You did a nice job!
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pickardracing
Guest
byrdman, since you referred me to this thread, I wont feel bad about asking a question in it. 
How did you go from the foam mock up to the final product? How's the seat feel?
Any pics of this you can share?
How did you go from the foam mock up to the final product? How's the seat feel?
Any pics of this you can share?
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byrdman76
Guest
Ask me anything you want...
Ask me anything you want...
Just don't hold me accountable :-D
You can go to this link and see a few shots of the form that I made for the tail.
http://s170.photobucket.com/albums/u245/byrdman76/?start=0
Couple of suggestions though from my experience. Use tape, aluminum foil, or something that will not allow the fiberglass resin to eat the foam. search for some of bhppy's posts. I wrapped the tail section in cloth that I have seen used in creating speaker forms and custom door panels - don't do this. I was trying to smooth the form out (like batting material on furniture) and hide transitions. It ate some of the foam material and created valleys that I had to fill in with Dyna glass. They were probably no more than 1/4" deep but it could have been avoided.
Also use the "non" woven fiberglass. The woven is great for flat surfaces but curves and angles become difficult since the material will not lay down as it should. It tried to crease instead.
Use plenty of hardener - don't go over board but don't try and get slack when mixing the ratio. In addition mix a small amount of what ever your using at a time. Fiberglass, Dyna glass, and Bondo should and will begin to harden and become worthless if you take to long to get it worked into your project. Baby steps until you get comfortable with the product.
Make the seat pan area as thin as possible to allow for more padding. I made my seat pan almost 2" tall to sit over the frame rails. That left me with an inch of padding :shock:... I used some black motorcycle specific padding from a custom upholstry shop that was shape-able. Pretty cool stuff that I hadn't seen before, it looks like ground up neoprene. That saved me but it would be nice to have a little more. Don't use the foam from Michaels or other furniture grade foam - you want the automotive specific foam.
And most importantly good luck and have fun!:-D
Byrd
Ask me anything you want...
byrdman, since you referred me to this thread, I wont feel bad about asking a question in it.
How did you go from the foam mock up to the final product? How's the seat feel?
Any pics of this you can share?
Just don't hold me accountable :-D
You can go to this link and see a few shots of the form that I made for the tail.
http://s170.photobucket.com/albums/u245/byrdman76/?start=0
Couple of suggestions though from my experience. Use tape, aluminum foil, or something that will not allow the fiberglass resin to eat the foam. search for some of bhppy's posts. I wrapped the tail section in cloth that I have seen used in creating speaker forms and custom door panels - don't do this. I was trying to smooth the form out (like batting material on furniture) and hide transitions. It ate some of the foam material and created valleys that I had to fill in with Dyna glass. They were probably no more than 1/4" deep but it could have been avoided.
Also use the "non" woven fiberglass. The woven is great for flat surfaces but curves and angles become difficult since the material will not lay down as it should. It tried to crease instead.
Use plenty of hardener - don't go over board but don't try and get slack when mixing the ratio. In addition mix a small amount of what ever your using at a time. Fiberglass, Dyna glass, and Bondo should and will begin to harden and become worthless if you take to long to get it worked into your project. Baby steps until you get comfortable with the product.
Make the seat pan area as thin as possible to allow for more padding. I made my seat pan almost 2" tall to sit over the frame rails. That left me with an inch of padding :shock:... I used some black motorcycle specific padding from a custom upholstry shop that was shape-able. Pretty cool stuff that I hadn't seen before, it looks like ground up neoprene. That saved me but it would be nice to have a little more. Don't use the foam from Michaels or other furniture grade foam - you want the automotive specific foam.
And most importantly good luck and have fun!:-D
Byrd
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snowbeard
Guest
wow!!! that paint's so perfect it looks like an airbrushed light highlight!! =P~
great work!
great work!
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byrdman76
Guest
Well it "was" nice...
Well it "was" nice...
Well it was nice... I used the Duplicolor paint that is ready to spray in a paint gun with no mixing required (supposedly automotive quality). Its sprays great but unfortunately the clear doesn't really harden all that well. Light abrasions really show up in the clear, and it doesn't hold up well to gas. If you get it off immediately theres no problem, but 30 seconds later and you can see a slight blemish. Most of it buffs out but I'm going to wet sand it with some 1500 and spray it again with a good quality clear. Hopefully the paint underneath will hold up. Sometimes cheaper paints will wrinkle and begin to break down when you spray on a good quality clear.
Keep your fingers crossed for me!
Well it "was" nice...
Well it was nice... I used the Duplicolor paint that is ready to spray in a paint gun with no mixing required (supposedly automotive quality). Its sprays great but unfortunately the clear doesn't really harden all that well. Light abrasions really show up in the clear, and it doesn't hold up well to gas. If you get it off immediately theres no problem, but 30 seconds later and you can see a slight blemish. Most of it buffs out but I'm going to wet sand it with some 1500 and spray it again with a good quality clear. Hopefully the paint underneath will hold up. Sometimes cheaper paints will wrinkle and begin to break down when you spray on a good quality clear.
Keep your fingers crossed for me!
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Guyver
Guest
I have a clearcoat related question. After my bike was delivered I had to charge the battery and the previous owner did not remove the plug on the breather tube. As a result when I charged the battery it popped the top so to speak and sprayed acid out on the tank and the surrounding area. I didn't notice this at first and as a result the clearcoat on the tank has little tiny spots that have turned brown and look like paint overspray. I called a body shop and they told me that there is no way to fix this and that the whole tank will have to be repainted. I thought the clearcoat could be lightly sanded to get rid of the spots and then re-shot. If you weren't looking for it you probably wouldn't even notice. Any thoughts?
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byrdman76
Guest
Thats what I would do. Hit it lightly with 1500 to see if you can get down into the clear enough just to get rid of the spots. Once there gone come back and hit the whole tank with 1500-2000 to blend everything and prep it for the new clear coat.
I would think it would be fine - the only concern is what the new clear will do to the old paint. Sometimes the clear will attack the older paint underneath but you wont know until you try it.
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TheCafeKid
Guest
Nice work man!! I love that tank! By any chance you wouldnt be willing to give a few pointers on how you did the knee inserts would you? I can see the basic jist, but im scared to death to try it without some idea of how to start...[FONT="]I finally finshed the bodywork on the tailsection and sprayed it with duplicolor gloss black and duplicolor clear. Wet sanded with 2000 between coats and taped it off in gold trim to match the tank. This is how the bike received its name the "SCUD" since the guys that i ride with all told me the tail section looked like a SCUD missle - haters! I like it so I guess that all that matters.[/FONT]
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[FONT="]I never really liked the look of the L tank on the bike so I scored a GS550E tank on ebay that I began grafting onto the L frame. The front and rear mounts had to be removed and relocated on the frame. I used the original rear mount and just moved it back on the frame to accomodate the larger tank. I had to add a cross member but it all worked out pretty well.[/FONT]
[FONT="][/FONT]
[FONT="][/FONT]
[FONT="][/FONT]
any info would be great!
Thanks and keep it up man that's sweet!!
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byrdman76
Guest
Take your time! Start at the rear of the tank and work the top edge about and inch to an inch and a half from your "line" (edge of your "crater"). The most critical spot will be when you cross the tank working your way from the top to the bottom. Lightly tap and form this area so that you do not cave in the entire side of the tank. work very slowly to radius your line and try not to square it off. Fill it with bondo and sand it smooth.
Create a template to get the sides the same. Use black marker to use as a guide.
Good luck
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humblepie
Guest
Hey byrdman,which coils did you get? and which dyna S ignition exactly?
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byrdman76
Guest
Check out Z1 or actually give them a call - thats what i did just to make sure. There always very very helpful. in selecting the correct parts.
DS3-1 since I was replacing the unit that was formally Kokusan (KD). Nippo ignitions use a different Dyna number (I think its just an adapter to accommodate the KD advance) .
I used the 3 ohm green coils DC1-1. And copper 7mm wires (no suppression)
The coils were a bit of a pain in the butt to mount on the GS550L - but it can be done. The supply voltage was jsut very close to shorting out on the frame. I installed rubber insulators to insure that this never happened.
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ifly85
Guest
Beautiful bike byrdman. Congrats on the bike and the babies. I painted my bike with that same scheme in different colors. Like you say though, the rattle can stuff, even if it is the automotive, isn't durable. I will use a spray gun with "real" paint next time or have someone else do it.
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8trackmind
Guest
Very nice.
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byrdman76
Guest
Thanks for the compliments man! post some pics of yours I'd love to see it.
It wasn't rattle can paint though, It was the Duplicolor ready to spray pre-mixed paint for most paint guns. The primer and base worked great the clear just doesn't hold up to much of anything.
Hopefully the new clear wont eat the base and primer - only one way to find out!
