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Cab Cleaning!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Halon
  • Start date Start date
H

Halon

Guest
So I just got my 82 GS550 back yesterday, and started cleaning the carbs. I got completely through one of them and left the rest for today. The only thing I noticed was that the jets were all screwed in as far as they could go. I was always under the impression that you wanted them a few turns or so out (as with my nitro R/C car). Do you think someone just took the carbs apart and screwed everything back together without knowing?
Or would it possibly be compensation for a higher altitude (4300ft.)?
Also, if I went with pods and a 4>1 exhaust, would those even out the effects of the thin air on the jets or make it way worse? I know it sounds dumb, but I'm still trying to figure it out! The air up here is thinner, so I'd need more, so if I just switched to pods would it be comparable to re-jetting? Or do I have it backwards?!?!?
I followed the carb cleaning series completely, but I just wanted some input (especially from high altitude guys!) about the jets being all the way in before I get too much further.
Pics to come!


TYLER
 
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Adjust each of the jets for the highest, smoothest idle you can get out of them. As for the pods and 4 into 1 you'll need a jet kit to get the bike running right. If you try to do it with stock components you'll spend alot of time and money on jets that aren't quite right. It's the needles that make all the difference with a jet kit.
 
All jets should be fully seated. Only adjustment is the pilot screw.
 
Nessism said:
All jets should be fully seated. Only adjustment is the pilot screw.
Click to expand...
This is true, the jets at the mouth of the carb should be fully seated. The pilot screw is located on the head side of the carb on top. If the carbs have never been tampered with there will be a plug over the pilots. Drill a small hole in the plug and pull it out with a screw. Be careful not to pluge the drill bit into the orifice the pilots screw into so you don't damage threads.
 
Billy Ricks said:
This is true, the jets at the mouth of the carb should be fully seated. The pilot screw is located on the head side of the carb on top. If the carbs have never been tampered with there will be a plug over the pilots. Drill a small hole in the plug and pull it out with a screw. Be careful not to pluge the drill bit into the orifice the pilots screw into so you don't damage threads.
Click to expand...

Edit: got my threads mixed up. Billy is right about this.
 
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Nessism said:
You must be thinking about BS (CV type carbs), the early GS bikes have VM carbs which have the air screw on the right side of the carbs and the fuel screw which is on the bottom. No caps over the screws thus no need to drill.
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His '82 should be CV's.
 
Cleaning "cabs"?

Cleaning "cabs"?

Why would you want to clean cabs? Do you work for a taxi company?
 
Grandpa said:
Why would you want to clean cabs? Do you work for a taxi company?
Click to expand...
Dang, you beat me to it, Nick! I really think that cabbies should clean their own cabs!:lol:;-)

PS. if you edit your original post you can fix the typo in the subject line...

Regards,
 
Tried editing it, but it just changed the title of the post, not the thread.
Thanks for the help, tho! I went back in and turned the pilot jet out about 2.5 turns. Does this sound ok? And I'm getting a 4>1 exhaust, so will I need to do anything else with the carbs?
Please excuse my noob-ish questions. I'm just now figuring out how large of a project I took on, and I don't want to screw up the carbs!
Thanks,


TYLER
 
Halon said:
Tried editing it, but it just changed the title of the post, not the thread.
Thanks for the help, tho! I went back in and turned the pilot jet out about 2.5 turns. Does this sound ok? And I'm getting a 4>1 exhaust, so will I need to do anything else with the carbs?
Please excuse my noob-ish questions. I'm just now figuring out how large of a project I took on, and I don't want to screw up the carbs!
Thanks,


TYLER
Click to expand...
Depends on how free it flows. If you run pods you will definitely need a jet kit.
 
If you have stock jets the pipe and pods would lean out the mixture. That is good for your elevation but I think it would still be on the lean side. I would try to fatten the main jet a step or two and lower the needle a half notch. You might have to also step up the pilot jet. Do you know your stock jet sizes and what you actually have installed?
 
hey chef not to hijack but do you know where i can find a jet kid for my 77?? VM26SS on it, i looked on Dynatechs site but didnt find one for those...
 
TheCafeKid said:
hey chef not to hijack but do you know where i can find a jet kid for my 77?? VM26SS on it, i looked on Dynatechs site but didnt find one for those...
Click to expand...
I can't either. Ask Keith Krause where he got his for the VM carbs.
 
chef1366 said:
If you have stock jets the pipe and pods would lean out the mixture. That is good for your elevation but I think it would still be on the lean side. I would try to fatten the main jet a step or two and lower the needle a half notch. You might have to also step up the pilot jet. Do you know your stock jet sizes and what you actually have installed?
Click to expand...
That's what I was thinking about the pods+4>1+altitude. I think for now I'll just try and get it running with reg. exhaust and stock airbox, and once I've got that down then pods would be a good winter project.
And I have no idea if the jets are stock and what size they are! I would assume stock. The bike's only got 13,000 miles on it, and by the looks of it there have not really been any modifications to anything. Although some of the screws on the carbs are pretty much stripped, so I'm pretty sure it's been opened up once or twice.
Thanks for all the help guys! I've got project thread up in the Appearance Mods section if you want to see the bike! (you probably don't want to look at the bike tho! lol)


TYLER
 
Don't forget to replace the carb runner boot O-rings while you have the carbs off. They are sure to leak so do them now. If the carb boots themselves are cracked you will have to replace them. I've got some good used spares so drop me a PM if you need them.

Good luck.
 
Nessism said:
Don't forget to replace the carb runner boot O-rings while you have the carbs off. They are sure to leak so do them now. If the carb boots themselves are cracked you will have to replace them. I've got some good used spares so drop me a PM if you need them.

Good luck.
Click to expand...
I've got completely new runner boots. If by runner boots you mean the rubber guys that connect the carbs to the engine. Completely replaced those with brand new ones, along with new o-rings and new screws. The boots going to the carbs from the air box are all fine.
The air screw on one of the carbs is stripped and I can't put it back in, so I'm bidding on a set of carbs on eBay and if that doesn't go through then I'll get some carb rebuild kits. I'm bummed about the setback because I could have had it done tonight! Oh well, it's not like I don't have other stuff to work on!


TYLER
 
Halon said:
I've got completely new runner boots. If by runner boots you mean the rubber guys that connect the carbs to the engine. Completely replaced those with brand new ones, along with new o-rings and new screws. The boots going to the carbs from the air box are all fine.
The air screw on one of the carbs is stripped and I can't put it back in, so I'm bidding on a set of carbs on eBay and if that doesn't go through then I'll get some carb rebuild kits. I'm bummed about the setback because I could have had it done tonight! Oh well, it's not like I don't have other stuff to work on!



TYLER
Click to expand...


I've read here about people running a tap through the threads to clean them up. Something to consider. Also there are some people around that have spare carbs so you might want to post in the wanted section - be specific which exact carb you need.

For carb parts, rebuild kits, check Z1 Enterprises. The pilot screw are available separately, I think.
 
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