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Calling BS carb guru's !

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jitsufighter
  • Start date Start date
First of all the tab is supposed to be almost flat and inline with the entire hinge!!! Maybe just a very little bit toward the float needles but not much. Someone has bent ( twisted )the composite floats themselves on the hinges. Take those center tabs and bend them almost flush with the hinges. THEN tweek the composite floats to get them somewhat close to the float hts. when tweeking the center tabs and adjusting floats hts with them theres no way in hellz they should ever be bent like that. Maybe a tiny bit to fine set the hts but thats way out of whack.
 
Here is the resevior.. ive had it hook up to a gas tank too off another gs i have... did the same exact thing.
 

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Fist off, what's with the broken post? Hope you're not trying to run it that way.
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As Chuck indicated, those tabs are bent WAY too much. Something is wrong for sure.
 
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chuck hahn said:
First of all the tab is supposed to be almost flat and inline with the entire hinge!!! Maybe just a very little bit toward the float needles but not much. Someone has bent ( twisted )the composite floats themselves on the hinges. Take those center tabs and bend them almost flush with the hinges. THEN tweek the composite floats to get them somewhat close to the float hts. when tweeking the center tabs and adjusting floats hts with them theres no way in hellz they should ever be bent like that. Maybe a tiny bit to fine set the hts but thats way out of whack.
Click to expand...

Ok so here are he floats, i wish i could post mpre than one picture at a time. They seem fairly straight with the hinge, is this supposed to be? Am i measuring the right spot?
 

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JTGS850GL said:
Fist off, what's with the broken post? Hope you're not trying to run it that way.
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As Chuck indicated, those tabs are bent WAY too much. Something is wrong for sure.
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Welp.. it broke.. it still has enough meat to hold the pin while im trying to dick with thelis problem.. im not going to invest anymore money into this until i can get it to hold fuel
 
There are 2 tabs..................

The tab that acts as the float stop which is the one i can see in your last pic.

The second tab is the one that makes contact with the float needle. So be more specific in which "tab" your asking about. the tab i was tlking about being bent way too much is the tab that contacts the needle...which is use for adjusting the float heights.
 
dude...your done with a broke float post...simple as that..your done. Maybe send Chef or one of the other with lots of CV parts and bodies a PM and see if they have a body.
 
chuck hahn said:
There are 2 tabs..................

The tab that acts as the float stop which is the one i can see in your last pic.

The second tab is the one that makes contact with the float needle. So be more specific in which "tab" your asking about. the tab i was tlking about being bent way too much is the tab that contacts the needle...which is use for adjusting the float heights.
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Yes i understand we are talking about the tab that bends to adjust float hight. Im sorry, i was showing that the actual metal connectiong to the round plastic, is fairly straight and in line with the hige. It does not look tampered with or bent. The only adjustment i could see, that would require bending the float adjusting tab back into place, would be if the needle itself were taller, thus needing to bend that tab back up to more parallel with the flat metal coming off the hinge. Does that make sense? Do you have any old float needles for a bs32 that you could measure for me?
 
One easy way to test things out on the bench before final assembly is to connect a line to the fuel inlet, position the carbs in their upright position and blow into the line. You should have flow through the fuel line. then invert the carbs so they're upside down and blow through the line again. There should be no flow with the weight of the floats on the seats.
 
chuck hahn said:
dude...your done with a broke float post...simple as that..your done. Maybe send Chef or one of the other with lots of CV parts and bodies a PM and see if they have a body.
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How would a broken tab on one carb, that still holds the float rod, cause all 4 carbs to leak?
 
chuck hahn said:
dude...your done with a broke float post...simple as that..your done. Maybe send Chef or one of the other with lots of CV parts and bodies a PM and see if they have a body.
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Also i have access to another set of 4 carbs..... but i do not wish to soend 50 dollars to fix a problem thats not causing the overflow problem
 
JTGS850GL said:
One easy way to test things out on the bench before final assembly is to connect a line to the fuel inlet, position the carbs in their upright position and blow into the line. You should have flow through the fuel line. then invert the carbs so they're upside down and blow through the line again. There should be no flow with the weight of the floats on the seats.
Click to expand...

Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!! Fantastic idea!!!!!
 
At this point it doesnt matter if they leaked before or not. Now you have a useless carb body so what difference does anything else matter now??? If you can get another carb body to replace the one with the broken post get it and send me the rack. I will fix them for free as its just easier than playing tag all day. i would say just send me what you have now except i dont have any CV bodies laying around.
 
chuck hahn said:
At this point it doesnt matter if they leaked before or not. Now you have a useless carb body so what difference does anything else matter now??? If you can get another carb body to replace the one with the broken post get it and send me the rack. I will fix them for free as its just easier than playing tag all day. i would say just send me what you have now except i dont have any CV bodies laying around.
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Chuck, if your offering to fix them for free, i will buy the new set, all new o rings and gaskets, and ship them to you. Can you pm me? Shoot ill even clean em before
 
Dont touch them...send them as they are. I will dip them and rebuild them for free. You can get the stuff and have it sent directly to me. I will PM you the info youll need.
 
Jitsufighter said:
How would a broken tab on one carb, that still holds the float rod, cause all 4 carbs to leak?
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It wont cause a problem with the others except possibly the adjacent carb. Might cause fuel to flow through that carb's air vent and into the other. A broken stud body must be replaced. That carb will NEVER be right in that condition. If you have another set of carbs I would replace that body with one from the other set.
 
JTGS850GL said:
Wow, not that's an offer you can't refuse.
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Darnitttttt........... it is.... but how am i supposed to learn... maybe a better learning set.. these ones have deff. Been tampered with. They have 132.5 main jets and a measurement of 180 on the air jet screw? I havent seen this number in any manual or on bassclifs site... these could just be all Frankensteined..
 
GS850 (80) the specs are for the CV's

idle.................... 1050 +/- 100 r/min
carb................... mik BS32SS
id no................... 45120
bore size ............ 32 (1.26)
float height ......... 22.4 +/- 1.0 (0.88 +/- 0.04)
fuel level ............ 5.0 +/- 0.5 (0.20" +/-0.02")
VALVE SEAT........ 2.0
STARTER JET....... 32.5
PILOT SCREW ..... 3.5
PILOT AIR JET ..... #200
pilot jet............... #42.5
jet needle........... 5D57-3 (the -3 3rd notch)
needle jet .......... X - 6
pilot outlet........... 0.7
BY PASS............. 1.0, 0.8, 0.8
MAIN AIR JET...... 1.7
main jet............. #115
 
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