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Calling BS carb guru's !

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jitsufighter
  • Start date Start date
chuck hahn said:
GS850 (80) the specs are for the CV's

idle.................... 1050 +/- 100 r/min
carb................... mik BS32SS
id no................... 45120
bore size ............ 32 (1.26)
float height ......... 22.4 +/- 1.0 (0.88 +/- 0.04)
fuel level ............ 5.0 +/- 0.5 (0.20" +/-0.02")
VALVE SEAT........ 2.0
STARTER JET....... 32.5
PILOT SCREW ..... 3.5
PILOT AIR JET ..... #200
pilot jet............... #42.5
jet needle........... 5D57-3 (the -3 3rd notch)
needle jet .......... X - 6
pilot outlet........... 0.7
BY PASS............. 1.0, 0.8, 0.8
MAIN AIR JET...... 1.7
main jet............. #115
Click to expand...

Thank you chuck... im a boy in a mans world... damnit...
 
I posted about the retainers a ways back and said they were needed to hold the seats securely. I now understand the other guys post was about those wire loop things...yeah they arent needed really. They basically just keep the needles from falling out..but then again so should the adjustment tabs. Its sort of a redundant thing in my opinion.
 
chuck hahn said:
I posted about the retainers a ways back and said they were needed to hold the seats securely. I now understand the other guys post was about those wire loop things...yeah they arent needed really. They basically just keep the needles from falling out..but then again so should the adjustment tabs. Its sort of a redundant thing in my opinion.
Click to expand...

That "other guy was me". Glad we're on the same page.;)
 
Something wrong here. I've never seen a tab bent so far that it touches the side of the needle valve body.

Have you now broken a float post?

When you take the needle valve seats out, do they have little filters on them - like the ones in my video above? If they don't, have you put the needle seats in the right way round? If it is even possible to put them in the wrong way - I've not tried it.

Is it possible that the valve seats in the needle valve body are worn? That needle valve is sitting too low and the tab is bent too far. Only ever had to bend them slightly off flat.

Buy fresh new Mikuni valves and seats. Easily found from a supplier.
 
londonboards said:
Something wrong here. I've never seen a tab bent so far that it touches the side of the needle valve body.

Have you now broken a float post?

When you take the needle valve seats out, do they have little filters on them - like the ones in my video above? If they don't, have you put the needle seats in the right way round? If it is even possible to put them in the wrong way - I've not tried it.

Is it possible that the valve seats in the needle valve body are worn? That needle valve is sitting too low and the tab is bent too far. Only ever had to bend them slightly off flat.

Buy fresh new Mikuni valves and seats. Easily found from a supplier.
Click to expand...

Thank you, i will look up some mikuni brand valve seats and see if i can get a measurement to compare them too.. although chuck hahn has offered to repair a set of carbs, id still like to know whats going wrong with these. Too large of a needle seat would explain the extreme bent tab
 
Ok so! In case anyone was curious, thanks a to a very long conversation with a man named eric bang (i understand the controversy, but gotta give credit where its due), he and i were able to compare depths of float needles in the brass seats... some knob job drilled out the brass passageways... and i got a new rack of carbs but only has 2 brass seats inside (yes im pulling my hair out) so ill be ordering two new brass seats and replacing my broken tab carb body. Thanks for the help and offers and criticism everyone. If anyone needs a carb body.... i got a couple.
 
Jitsufighter said:
Ok so! In case anyone was curious, thanks a to a very long conversation with a man named eric bang (i understand the controversy, but gotta give credit where its due), he and i were able to compare depths of float needles in the brass seats... some knob job drilled out the brass passageways... and i got a new rack of carbs but only has 2 brass seats inside (yes im pulling my hair out) so ill be ordering two new brass seats and replacing my broken tab carb body. Thanks for the help and offers and criticism everyone. If anyone needs a carb body.... i got a couple.
Click to expand...

Ok completely disregard this last one, i bought a new set of carbs and low and behold... the needle sits at the same exact depth. The carbs i bought had like 500 miles on them and still had the plug over the primary adjustment screw. Im just going to assume i didnt clean them well and chunks are stopping the flow. Im taking the rack apart, getting the o rings from cycleorings and gonna carb dip and follow tutorial and report back. Thanks again for all the info
 

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Okay I have a the CV BS mikuni carbs on an 81 GS550. I'm having trouble getting the top end of the throttle to put down power after valve job, cleaning carbs, and syncing them. I've been adjusting the fuel screw trying to find the sweet spot on my GS550. Pretty sure they're the CV carbs. Does that screw only adjust the fuel mixture during idle or does it effect top end too? Bike accels well but when i put on the throttle on past 1/3 or half or so it sounds like it spins out at the top end and doesn't increase power. (sounds like gargling basically). Is this the screw I would need to adjust to fix this? If not what should be adjusted? Another thing to note is sometimes I hear a hiccup come from the carbs. know its from the carbs because when syncing the needle jumps on one or two carbs, not sure if its related.
 
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