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Cam bearing removal

  • Thread starter Thread starter flyingace
  • Start date Start date
F

flyingace

Guest
Suzuki recommends using a vice-grip to hold the cam in place while removing the cam bearings. This is supposed to prevent binding caused by valve spring tension. That's a fine idea, but I have yet to find a vice-grip with jaws large enough to actually work - they slip off and binding occurs anyway.

I found a better way is to use a large channel-lock (slip-joint) pliers and duct tape. Just put the pliers in the place the manual recommends and wrap the tape around the handles tightly. This is far more secure since the jaws are bigger and shaped better. This also works with engine in frame.
 
Interesting. When I pulled my cams on my "practise motor" I just let them bind, but that's a better idea.

By the way, do you have a Suzuki service manual? The cylmer I've got just says, "remove bolts" etc.
 
As long as you back off the bolts a little at a time all the way across the cams it shouldn't be a problem removing the bearings without holding the cams down.
 
As long as you back off the bolts a little at a time all the way across the cams it shouldn't be a problem removing the bearings without holding the cams down.

Billy is 100% correct. If you pull the bolts in stages and work along the length of the cam, there should be no problems with binding. I find it more of a nuisance when re-installing the caps than when pulling them.


Mark
 
I have a Haynes manual, and they even have a picture of it. Must be some special English vice-grip.

I'm sure you can slowly back off the bolts, but I like using something to take the tension off the cam - just makes it easier.

Ace.
 
tang.jpg
 
Billy Ricks said:
As long as you back off the bolts a little at a time all the way across the cams it shouldn't be a problem removing the bearings without holding the cams down.

This has been my technique for the past 25 years, never had a problem. In fact, any time I do anything with a part of the engine that has multiple bolts holding a part in place, I do it this way, and tighten up the same way. It's just good practice.

Hap
 
flyingace said:
I have a Haynes manual, and they even have a picture of it. Must be some special English vice-grip.

I'm sure you can slowly back off the bolts, but I like using something to take the tension off the cam - just makes it easier.

Ace.
The haynes manual for the '77 550/750 says it's okay to let them out slowly.. which is exactly what I did.. Although when I first removed them, I used a large bar clamp to hold them down (which worked fine too).
 
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