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Cam Cap Bolts

  • Thread starter Thread starter Boozy Creek Beast
  • Start date Start date
B

Boozy Creek Beast

Guest
I have just completed my 1166 kit upgrade and during the process had some problems with my Cam Cap Bolts stripping out. I used Heli Coils to correct the problem but I consider them to be a quick fix rather than a permanet one. I was wondering has anyone done or know if it is possible to take the head off send it to a machine shop and have all of the Cam Cap Bolts drilled out and new inserts put in. It may not be possible are even cost effective but I would like to have it done so I can feel comfortable takeing the engine apart again if needed.

The Beast
 
Aw heck, heli-coils are 10 times better than the threaded aluminum. I'd consider it permanent- an upgrade even.
 
Jethro's right, the helicoils are an upgrade. The steel inserts are stronger than aluminum. I just wish that when I stripped out 6 holes a couple of years ago, I would have had the cash to just get all the holes helicoiled and be done with it.
 
I had a hard time with the Heli Coils. I have never used them before and I am not sure if I made some kind of a mistake. Here are my issues:

1. I purchased them from PepBoys and the depth of the Cam Cap Bolt and the lenght of the Heli Coils are much different. As much as 3/4 differance between the depth and the coil. Am I useing the wrong type.

2. I set the Coils as shown in the package direction's but when I went to but the Cam Cap Bolts back in they were very hard to tighten. They seamed to getter better when I pulled them back out and then put them back in but they were still difficult to turn.

3. I tried to screw the Coils down to the depth needed to seat the bolts but the coil would only go so far before they started to deform and or mess up.

I am very nervious about these issue and would really like to get some good information.

The Beast
 
They should be a permanent solution. Were they genuine Helicoils? You have to install then so that the top of the coil is at least a half turn below the top thread, then you have to break off the drive tang.

Jay
 
I missed the part where you Break of the drive tang. I new I had to be doing something wrong.

The Beast
 
Boozy Creek Beast said:
I missed the part where you Break of the drive tang. I new I had to be doing something wrong.

The Beast
Click to expand...

Just get something that fits in the hole after the coil is in, like a drill bit upside down, etc. Let it contact the drive tang, then a tap with a hammer breaks the tang off, and now the bolt can thread completely thru the helicoil.

Jay
 
Boozy Creek Beast said:
2. I set the Coils as shown in the package direction's but when I went to but the Cam Cap Bolts back in they were very hard to tighten. They seamed to getter better when I pulled them back out and then put them back in but they were still difficult to turn.

3. I tried to screw the Coils down to the depth needed to seat the bolts but the coil would only go so far before they started to deform and or mess up.

I am very nervious about these issue and would really like to get some good information.

The Beast
Click to expand...

The tap that comes with the heli-coil kit is tapered at the bottom. What I did was purchase a second kit and ground off most of the tapered end of the tap. Basically turning it into a "bottoming" tap. This keeps the coil from getting squeezed smaller at the bottom, which is what causes the bolts to get tight when installing. Use the tapered tap first and follow up with the bottoming tap. Also the most important thing to do when breaking off the tang is to use a custom ground punch that barely fits in the hole. This keeps the bottom thread from being knocked out of place when you tap the tang off. It tells you this right on the package. Good thing about heli-coils is if you dont like the way they were installed, you can pick them back out of the hole and re-do. Properly installed they are a good and permanent repair..........BadBillyB
 
Run the tap all the way till it bottoms out. Insert the coil only about a turn in below the top of the hole. Break off the tang. I consider them a permanent solution.

If you have one installed that is messed up. You can bend the top of the heli coil in with a screw driver toward the center. Grab it with thin needle nose pliars and twist it back out. Then install another one.
 
In my Ninja 900, I got three of 'em in the tops of bearing caps (threaded mounting points for the valve cover screws). 17K miles, no problems.

When I put them in, I clean & dry the hole real well (w/ CRC Brakleen, acetone, etc). Then I swab Loctite 271 (red, permanent) into the hole with a Q-Tip. Install the Heli Coil, break off the tab w/ a sharp-edged punch, and wipe out the excess Loctite w/ clean Q-Tips...get it ALL out. Let the Loctite cure for a few hours before reassembly.
Maybe overkill, but them suckers are IN THERE.

Properly installed, I think they're at least as strong - or stronger - than the aluminum threads.

Ted
 
I've probably said this on other threads, but a couple of mechanics I trust recommend using time-serts for thread replacement. More expensive than a helicoil, but it uses a self locking solid threaded bushing.
 
Where did you purchase them. Most places I have checked have never herd of them. I pulled them up on the .net and could only found them from a company in Calif. and they were a little bit more than I would like to spend. I like the idea and if I can find them local or even at a lower price I would love to use them.

The Beast
 
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