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cam chain tensioner removal

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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All I want to do is change a leaky gasket under the cam chain tensioner on my 1980 GS750E!

This seems like a pretty easy task, however after looking at the Clymer manual I am a little confused :? . I am confused beacause they refer to the "lockscrew" throughout the proceedure but according to the pictures they are talking about two different parts of the adjuster, one on the left side with a locknut and another knob and spring assembly on the right side.

The proceedure in the manual is as follows:

1) Loosen the locknut securing the LOCKSCREW and tighten the lockscrew to hold the tensioner plunger. (picture shows locknut and screw on left side of assembly while sitting on the bike)

2) Remove two bolts securing tensioner to the cylinder.

3) Before installing the tensioner, completely compress the spring loaded plunger and secure it with the LOCKSCREW. (picture shows different lockscrew/knob with spring assembly on right side. Do I loosen the first
side that I have just tightened, compress the plunger and tighten this knob[right side] )

4) install gasket and assembly to the cylinder

5) Loosen the locknut securing the LOCKSCREW and back off the LOCKSCREW 1/4 turn. Tighten the locknut. ( I have now tightened and loosened the left, tightened the right to hold plunger, backed off the right?? to allow plunger to move againgst the chain, where do I set the Left lockscrew???!!! ](*,) ARRGHH!

Unless I am missing something this seems more confusing than necessary. Any clarification would be much appreciated.​
 
simple!!!

first step= loosen the lock nut for the lock screw (on the left side)
second= turn the knob on the right side back till it stops, while holding the knob, turn in the lock screw till it is firmly seated

three= tighten the lock nut on the lock screw

four= loosen then remove the tensioner mounting bolts and remove the tensioner.

now for the instalation

one= insert tensioner with the plunger still retracted, and install and tighten to specifications the mounting screws

two= loosen the lock screw lock nut and turn the lock screw out one quarter turn (you should here the plunger pop in) and while making sure the lock screw does not turn, tighten the lock nut.
the lock screws only purpose is to hold the plunger in during engine assembly, do not turn the screw in after letting the plunger in, the lock screw has to be locked in the retracted (1/4 turn out) for the tensioner to be able to adjust automaticly for wear.
 
Thanks F.F.,

so, as I understand it the knob on the right side retracts the plunger and it is then held inplace by the lock screw on the left until released after installation.
 
Just a little to add. I've found that disturbing the lock screw can result in the o-ring leaking. The o-ring can sit there for years and be fine, but once the screw is turned, it may leak. Get an o-ring when you get the gasket.
 
Thanks all, I was going to do the repair today but I will wait until I get the o-ring.
 
R.Jackson said:
Thanks all, I was going to do the repair today but I will wait until I get the o-ring.
Click to expand...

That o-ring does'nt show up on some dealers parts diagrams.
It's part number: 09280-06005.
You may have to pre-order it.
Your cam chain tensioner is used on several years/models. The dealer may have to search a few before finding it.
 
Only somewhat related: More about the o-rings in the cam chain adjuster, the Suzuki microfische was incomplete on my 80 GS850, only listed one of the three orings. If you run acrost this same situation, look at microfische for 2 - 3 years later.
 
REDMAN said:
Only somewhat related: More about the o-rings in the cam chain adjuster, the Suzuki microfische was incomplete on my 80 GS850, only listed one of the three orings. If you run acrost this same situation, look at microfische for 2 - 3 years later.
Click to expand...

That's right. You may have to ask the parts man to do a little searching.
For a complete re-build, there are two o-rings, one seal, and one gasket.
Camchain tensioner set screw o-ring: 09280-06005.
Camchain tensioner large o-ring (right side under hex): 09280-21013.
Camchain tensioner seal: 09284-10006.
Camchain tensioner to block gasket: 12837-31310. (I'm not positive about the "7" in this part number, that's what it looks like on the sticker.)
The large o-ring does not easily leak. Like the set screw o-ring, if you play around with the knurled knob, the seal will sometimes start leaking. If you see oil dripping from the spring area, this is the seal failing.
If you have the tensioner in your hand, test the tensioner to be sure it's travelling its full range. With the set screw backed off, the knurled knob should move a good 3/4 of a turn and still have good spring strength. The fine spring can loose strength over time and the knurled knob will not advance through its full range. To fix this, just add new tension to the spring by pulling one end out of its hole and turn the spring back (counter-clockwise) one full turn and re-insert the end in its hole.
It's difficult to do this with the tensioner on the bike. So do this check/adjustment before installing.
 
Thanks guys,

You have once again proven that this site and its members are outstanding. Where do people who don't ride GS's go for valuable information :?: poor sods :!:
 
aschessla said:
How do you replace the large o-ring on the tensioner?
Click to expand...
I put my tensioner in a vise with rags. You have to mount it just right to stop it from rotating, and loosen the "nut". It can be a little awkward.
Of course, take off the knurled knob assy' first.
 
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