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Cams and Ported heads (go or no)

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As you know I was having some diff with jetting it seamed last season. The consenses is the head porting/cam compatibility. The info I have gleaned from a number of different experts regarding my very small main jet size in my 1166 (127's) was that the Webb 348 lift 257 duration cams just were not working with my ported head.
I am having it flowed as we speak so I will have some hard numbers shortly. It seems the long duration combined with the porting was killing my midrange. A stark reminder that the engine is a system that needs all parts working together for optimum performance. I guess I did not have the right combination.
The 1260cc kit is going to be fed with a hotter set of Webbs. 370 lift 242 duration with the addition of the back cut valves should pic things up a bit for next season. I am shooting for 9.99.
I barely broke 100hp on the dyno last yr but scored pistons, cylinders and shot cams were also a big part of that I am sure.
 
katman said:
I barely broke 100hp on the dyno last yr but scored pistons, cylinders and shot cams were also a big part of that I am sure.
Click to expand...

Man, I feel for ya. Thought the damage was just the cams....

I hope this year will go smoother than last for both of us!
 
Thanks bubba,

lookin forward to this yr. and some 9's.

Remember I crashed and she redlined for about 15 seconds on her side while sliding down the road. That was at the start of the season when I was jetting. But, I believe now that jetting wasn't the problem but my cam porting combo.
 
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Back in the day when the GS was on the streets 127's just wouldn't work for me. Anything less than 140's she hit a brick wall.
 
Did the floor (bottom) of the intake or exhaust ports get ported?

H
 
Yes, this is the problem. I built two identical bikes. One had a ported head with .340 cams and the other didn't the one without the cams and porting walked away from the one that did. without head and cams (135 mains) mine would drown between 6 and 8krpm with the same mains.
Mine was smokin like an old desel at the time. I was so fed up I took it to a harly dyno cuz it had a sniffer and the numbers don't lie. She was drowning herself with anything larger than 127's. AND THAT AIN'T RIGHT FOR A BIG GULP LIKE THAT 1166.

I will have the answer for sure when I get it all back and it is rippin down the track.
 
DrHermannstein asks a good question. Improper porting will ruin a head beyond repair making the motor run like crap. TSCC brings the air in and exhaust out at a certain velocity and direction. when porting, you would have to maintain this relationship with your porting mods.

And stay off the floor!
 
Do NOT throw that other head away. It can be fixed with epoxy in the floors of the ports. At least as long as the IDIOT that ported it didn't screw up the short side radius. Contact me if you are interested in fixing. I have been doing these heads for a LONG time & my Superflow bench doesn't lie about what works & what doesn't. Ray.
 
Thanks Ray, I am asumimg you are talking to me.... I don't think the head is bad but will know in a week or so what is going on
 
katman said:
Thanks bubba,

lookin forward to this yr. and some 9's.

Remember I crashed and she redlined for about 15 seconds on her side while sliding down the road. That was at the start of the season when I was jetting. But, I believe now that jetting wasn't the problem but my cam porting combo.
Click to expand...
No problem billy bob jimbo.

You should mount a tilt switch so next time you fall over it kills the motor.
 
I am sure the pet rock started out as a joke too. Maybe we could make a few $$$$$ on this?! LOL

Seriously, way back in the day for the cars we used a ball bearing that would roll across the contacts. You could make a vary inexpensive kill switch this way.
 
I think they could catch on but having the bike shut off everytime you went into a corner would get annoying....
 
You would have to make it so the bike was on it's side, then add a little filter to it. So the bike has to be on its side for say 5 seconds before the kill. If it pops back up, it resets the filter. Should be simple to do.
 
Thats a great idea! There is a electrical parts shop here in town and Im sure the guy that owns it would be able to hook it right up. How about an adjustable one that opens a circuit at 35, 65 or 90 degrees?

5 seconds is to long. Thats about an hour in slow-mo disaster time.

Im adding that to my list for Monday.
 
What about just hookin up a kill switch to a slider so if it hit the side it would cut out.
 
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