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Cams and Ported heads (go or no)

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
Yes to some degree. I will get a definitive analysis from the flow bench and the head dude. He won't have it until next Thursday.
My racing guy looked at my two cyl heads this past week and literally snorted and cursed when he saw that the floors had been touched on one of my two heads. He claims that the floor needs to left alone completely. He said to even leave the carbon stains there. The PO had tried to help the head by knife edging the split and hogging out indescriminately. He said the best thing to do is to use that head for mock up and fitment only. Running it would bring a huge flat spot at 5500 to 7000 revs and would be impossible to tune out. Thank goodness I have a stock head that wil be ported very carefully.
The guy I'm going to for advice has raced it all, built it all and tested it all.
 
I think they could catch on but having the bike shut off everytime you went into a corner would get annoying....

The answer is simple, had one on my bike for years. It's called a tether switch.
 
NO,NO,NO,

NOT THE SAME!!!!!!! thing at allllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll

Don't want to clipoon every time you throw a leg over. WE need some forward thinking not use the stuff that has always worked for years that everyone knows....forward THINKING..like the AIRBOX!
 
I figure the 5 second kill time is more than enough to save a motor once it's laid down and the oil stops flowing. But for you we could make it adjustable...

The answer is simple, had one on my bike for years. It's called a tether switch.

I wondered what those were for. Not me, but I heard a few guys by-pass them because they are another failure point. Sort of like fuses....

Two years ago I was riding the GSXR and was about 40 miles from home when it started to act up. Started looking and the f'ing kickstand switch failed. All I need is one more thing to try and protect me from myself. Above all, it would need to actually work, not like most of the crap people make now days.
If it does fail, make it at least not disable the bike.

Because you only want it to kill when it's fallen over and not doing wheelies or stopping too fast, I would just use the steel ball with the two cone approach. Ball makes the circuit. Cones direct the ball to the contacts, only when the bike is on its side.
 
Ive got tether switches on my jet skiis. Not a Fan. They work but they are a pita most of the time.
Mercury switch's are on every newer car under hood lamps.
Ford is famous for pendulum switches in their cars to turn off the fuel pump in case of flip over.

Im thinking that a 180 degree pendulum switch would do the trick. That is, movement arc from 90 to 270 degrees

Normally hangs at 180 and makes contact to ground the coils at 90 or 270.
Its on my list for tommorrow.
 
gsxr 750 tip-over switch

TipOverSwitch1.jpg


"The metal ring rides on the "U" shaped rail... the ring is insulated on the white plastic. This pic shows the "go" position. If the bike is crashed the ring makes contact with either of the side poles and shuts off the fuel injection to prevent a possible fire or engine damage from overrev."

there is an article on mototune on how to disable it, because in certain situations the lean angle can cause the switch to trip and cut the engine.
http://mototuneusa.com/tip_over_switch.htm
 
I was reading GSXRs if you remove the clutch switch you could loose 20hp because the bikes computer always thinks it is in netural & will retard the timing
 
No kidding? What year did they start doing this?

The switch we were talking about is more like a fall over switch.....
 
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