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Anonymous
Guest
Is there any specific bolt order to put the caps for the cams back on? The manual only says to go in a diagonal order but it doesn't say what bolts to start with. Does it matter?
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Billy Ricks
Guest
I would start with the center caps and work to the outside. I would also tighten a little at a time going across all the caps. It may not be all that critical, but you know the old saying, "An ounce of prevention..."
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JJ
Guest
My service manual (GS1100G) says criss-cross on each cap... starting at the center.
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Anonymous
Guest
If you are sitting on the bike looking down on the cover
-9 - 5 - 1 - 3 - 7 - 11
10 - 8 - 4 - 2 - 6 -12
Torque each bolt to 27 ft. lbs., 6 ft. lbs. at a time till you reach 27.
Have fun. :mrgreen:
-9 - 5 - 1 - 3 - 7 - 11
10 - 8 - 4 - 2 - 6 -12
Torque each bolt to 27 ft. lbs., 6 ft. lbs. at a time till you reach 27.
Have fun. :mrgreen:
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Billy Ricks
Guest
dpgreen said:
No offense, but your pattern looks like head bolts to me. He was asking about the cam caps. I don't think he want to go anywhere near 27 ft. lbs. of torque on the cam bolts.
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Anonymous
Guest
Your right my mistake. that's what happens at 6:30am with no coffee.Don't have my book with me right now will have to get back later if someone doesn't give you the right info before I get back.
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Anonymous
Guest
Can't find a pattern.Just make sure you put the bering caps back inthe right place.There should be only 4 caps each one is marked A,B,C, or D,and there should be coresponding marks on the cylinder head.Torque bolts securing all 4 bering caps gradually and evenly to 1.0 mkg(7.0 ft. lbs.).Suzuki clymer GS850-1100 shaft drive,79-84. hope this helps.My appologize on my erlier mistake :mrgreen:
If you have the 16 valve head, there are 8 caps, four per cam. It doesn't really matter the specific order as long as you do the crisscross pattern on the cap, and start with the two inner caps then the two outer caps. Tighten down slowly and evenly to 7 ft. lbs., and it IS CRITICAL to do this evenly across all the caps. I just screwed this up tonight, and the cost will be 4 helicoils at $60 a pop. 
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Anonymous
Guest
Ive just replaced my head and cams/caps because some IDIOT in the bikes history made a right mess in there !!! So, do be carefull. In my opinion and experiance you should put the caps on, paying attention to the A B C D marks as previously told, then insert the bolts. Tighten each bolt on each cap a little at a time so the cams are always straight and in line. Keep going until they are tightened down. However, whilst it is very important to only tighten any bolt to the specified torque, in this instance I only tightened them hand tight, and then a little. Just like you do with a spark plug. I do not want to take any chances of stripping the thread, it is so easy to do with the light alloy used here. I wouldn't advise you that this is the best method, but do bear it in mind. My bike runs a treat and none of the bolts have come loose, and the cams are very quite indeed. Jobs a good'n.
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Anonymous
Guest
I quote myself again "YEE HAW!!!"
I quote myself again "YEE HAW!!!"
I left for 2 days and I came back to a ton of info....thanks guys. The head is back on now and the pistons and chambers are carbon free, believe me they needed it. There wasn't much room left in there!!! We'll see how she runs when she is back up.
I quote myself again "YEE HAW!!!"
I left for 2 days and I came back to a ton of info....thanks guys. The head is back on now and the pistons and chambers are carbon free, believe me they needed it. There wasn't much room left in there!!! We'll see how she runs when she is back up.
