camshaft

[feder1100]

did me a search and I going to take this thing apart,only thing I am wondering about is removel of cams everyone says to clamp them down before removing caps I am afraid of breaking a fin or something, does anyone have a pic of this process or can explain it to me thanks... 81 1100e

 

[Agemax]

just crack off all the cam clamps evenly and slowly. you will be fine mate. no need to clamp it

 

[feder1100]

what about install do you clamp the cams down then,read if you dont might strip threads

 

[Agemax]

what about install do you clamp the cams down then,read if you dont might strip threads

same as removal mate, just carefully pull down all the clamps evenly, one side of the head to the other, then torque them up

 

[Guest]

I just did the process you are going to do... If you are not going to move the bottom end, set the cams in the position that you will have to be in to reassemble. Set the crank to the t mark and the camshafts to the timing marks on the cam gears at the respective positions.. Look at the diagram in the shop manual. The slots in the ends of the cams will help you line things up so when you put it back together, it all works easily...
Curt

 

[cyclefvr2]

same as removal mate, just carefully pull down all the clamps evenly, one side of the head to the other, then torque them up

nothing against anyone , but the factory manual even says ,and shows clamping them down, i wouldnt risk stripping the threads personally, i have done that in the past on a kawi, heli coils are a pain in the a$$
if you want i can take a pic of it in my manual and send it to ya / email
just precautionary

it doesnt clamp on the fin area

 

[Agemax]

nothing against anyone , but the factory manual even says ,and shows clamping them down, i wouldnt risk stripping the threads personally, i have done that in the past on a kawi, heli coils are a pain in the a$$
if you want i can take a pic of it in my manual and send it to ya / email
just precautionary

it doesnt clamp on the fin area

factory manuals tell you a lot of things that are completely unnessecary. if done with a little caution and even tightening you will not have a problem. yank one side down too far before the other side then you run the risk of stripping threads

 

[sam78gs750]

just did this myself.... As agemax said, for removal I'd just loosen them evenly and slowly and you'll be fine. I used a pair of vise grips to clamp them down and when I released the vise grips the cam shot up on me. (You can probably avoid that with a little finesse though.) For reinstalling, it's a lot easier to just clamp them down to the top of the head. you don't need to touch the fins. I'd def suggest lining everything up b4 you take it apart. not necessary, but it'll make life easier on reassembly. I only had one set of vise grips, so.... Lined up the crank, put both cams in, cam chain on, clamp one side down and torque the cap bolts, clamp the other side, torque the caps, and you're done. just make sure you double and triple check that everything lines up correctly as stated in your manual....

 

[feder1100]

HEy cyclefvr2 ill send you p.m. with e-mail for picif you dont mind my haynes manuel does not have a pic like that

 

[feder1100]

another thing will gasket set from z-1 work alright,I did not see o-rings for base of cylinder in it, any trick to making sure I have no leaks and the piston rings not sure where to get them some have told me 1168 kit?? but p.o. said they are stock?? any help, thanks... trying to get this done asap

 

[Nessism]

I'm a proponent of clamping the cams down before tightening the caps. It makes timing the exhaust cam easier for one thing.

 

[cyclefvr2]

factory manuals tell you a lot of things that are completely unnessecary. if done with a little caution and even tightening you will not have a problem. yank one side down too far before the other side then you run the risk of stripping threads

but if you use the vice pliers propperly the whole cam will sit evenly, no worries

 

[Guest]

another thing will gasket set from z-1 work alright,I did not see o-rings for base of cylinder in it, any trick to making sure I have no leaks and the piston rings not sure where to get them some have told me 1168 kit?? but p.o. said they are stock?? any help, thanks... trying to get this done asap

Not sure what you are trying to say.
The o-rings on the bottom of the cylinder aren't needed.
Find out what pistons you do have installed. If stock any Suzuki online vendor and if 1168 try APE. Neither are cheap.

 

[cyclefvr2]

i dont know on o rings, i know gaskasinch/ indian head/ seals, if used properly, maybe some suzuki bond? "base gasket"
rtv sealer, is garbage dont use it if someone gives it to you

if you need the case "base gasket area" decked /,milled to straighten, then, do it dont try to compensate warpage with sealer, if the jug is warped get a different one
dont recal seing a warped base gasket side before lol, im sure its happened though

dont want to steer you wrong

 

[feder1100]

Just looking at manuel I have, has o-rings with cyl.base gasket. thought I had to use them base does not leak now, hope its sealed up dont want to do it twice.Do you measure piston around where the pin goes through for size and what size is stock 81 1100 piston this book that came with bike has different size for different model or something dont quite get it??

 

[Guest]

Just looking at manuel I have, has o-rings with cyl.base gasket. thought I had to use them base does not leak now, hope its sealed up dont want to do it twice.Do you measure piston around where the pin goes through for size and what size is stock 81 1100 piston this book that came with bike has different size for different model or something dont quite get it??

Stock pistons are 72mm and the 1166 kit is 75mm.

 

[cyclefvr2]

Just looking at manuel I have, has o-rings with cyl.base gasket. thought I had to use them base does not leak now, hope its sealed up dont want to do it twice.Do you measure piston around where the pin goes through for size and what size is stock 81 1100 piston this book that came with bike has different size for different model or something dont quite get it??

if the jug needed the orings you got lucky lol, motor gets hot oil gets like water, the orings are prolly precautionary from factory, ive seen it on other bikes, yea measure piston at the pin and the skirts, some pistons have smaler crowns so they go by the widest part of the piston, "the pin area", book will not have specs on a big bore piston, if there wiseco pistons you can check there site if your "mic'ing them.
are you worried about the piston to cylinder clearances? go by the piston manufacturer's specs, always- some pistons are different ,and have different tollerances, "some need more clearance"