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Can I check floats levels with something besides gasoline?

  • Thread starter Thread starter mnferwerda
  • Start date Start date
M

mnferwerda

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I've got a set of carbs (Mikunis BS32s for an '83 GS850) that have been cleaned and I need to verify the float levels are set correctly. I have some drain bolts that I've modified to attach a clear tube so I can visually see the float levels when the bowls are filled with gasoline (a great idea I've picked up from this site!). However I do most of my work in the basement, and it is cold outside. I was wondering if I could use something beside gasoline to avoid the fumes. I was thinking denatured alcohol might work. The carbs are not attached to the bike. Any suggestions?
 
A fairly knowledgeable guy on KZRider advocates using alcohol. I haven't tried but plan to at some point because using gas is a royal pain in the butt if you have to get inside the carbs a number of times to make adjustments.
 
I'm using regular gasoline despite working inside, and cold weather outside. First time I did, I got quite a bit of a headache, but I worked out the following measures since:

1. Keeping a window cracked as long as I got gasoline in the open, i.e. working with it
2. Use small glass bottle (0.33L, standard size for small beers around here) with a funnel to drain the gasoline into, and to pour from.
3. Plastic* bowl to catch overflow

Bowl and Bottle go outside when not needed. The bowl gets emptied, either into the bottle or somewhere nobody cares. Windows then closed if appropriate/necessary.

The fuel in the bottle is dedicated to carb adjustments, as putting it inside/outside all the time will let water condense in it. Avoid letting that water get into the carbs,
if it does, it's not a big issue: It's heavier than gasoline and draining the bowls will flush it out no problem; but it may throw off the float readings?

This workflow has limited fumes a great deal for me.
 
setting the float bowl levels this way should be done with the carbs fitted and the bike running, at idle. according to the factory manual. Doing it static the way you are will give a false reading.
snap_screen_20161209142115.jpg
 
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I spent $3 or $4 on a plastic caliper at Harbor Freight to measure mine static.
No vapor fume explosion danger at all, inside or out.
 
I check fuel level with the carbs off the bike. There won't be a meaningful difference checking this way compared to with the carbs on the bike and the engine running, and it's a whole lot safer and easier.
 
Nessism said:
I check fuel level with the carbs off the bike. There won't be a meaningful difference checking this way compared to with the carbs on the bike and the engine running, and it's a whole lot safer and easier.
Click to expand...
And you are the biggest culprit for telling people off for not doing things "by the book", haha
 
Suzuki isn't bulletproof. Just look at their charging system problems as reference of that.

BTW, Kawasaki KZ bikes don't even list float height in their service manuals, they reference fuel level and detail performing the clear tube test. They do not direct checking the carbs on the bike either, in fact they suggest checking off the bike and keeping the carbs level during the check. My reason for mentioning this is because not even the OEM's agree that the fuel level should be checked with the bike running.
 
Reminds me, I saw a Kawasaki dealer set the timing chain tension on a Z650 with the motor running at about 3000 rpm.
 
So I have set the floats using a vernier caliper before. When I re-checked them visually they were a bit off.

If it was just me in the house, I could get away with an open door and window. However any gas smell is a no go per my wife's decree. And I need her on my side...

I would think when the bike is in motion, the levels must be fluctuating some. If so, I'm not too sure how critical it is to do it on the bike.

So how do float levels get off in the first place? Assuming they are set correctly in from the factory, I would think they would always be good, until the float pin wears out.

I'm going to try it with denatured alcohol. I report back how it goes.
 
So how do float levels get off in the first place?
Click to expand...

One of the things that can make it go off is the spring inside the float needle wearing out. At least from what I heard
 
The big issue with varying fuel level relates to wear in the float needle and/or the float becoming "heavy". The spring in the float needle is the big culprit; with age and use the spring becomes soft and then the fuel flow won't shut off as positively as when new, thus the fuel level rises. Wear on the needle and seat can also occur. Sadly, aftermarket needles are not nearly as good as the OEM stuff because they routinely come with soft needle springs from new. They work okay, but not as good as a fresh Mikuni needle and seat.
 
I used denatured alcohol instead of gasoline it and seemed to work fine. It was especially nice when I spilled some on the floor and no big mess as it readily evaporates. When I finished, I made sure to leave the float bowls open for awhile to let all the alcohol evaporate.
 
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