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Can I run pods with no carb changes?

  • Thread starter Thread starter mostholycerebus
  • Start date Start date
M

mostholycerebus

Guest
I just purchased a 1985 GS550L with high idle issues. When we turned the idle down it would almost die, then rev up, now its running OK at about 4k. Carb was rebuilt by a semi-competent mechanic a few months ago. Anyway, I am in the process of replacing the intake boots and o-rings when I notice the underside of the left airbox is bent, creased kinda, like the clamp was WAY overtightend and left that way. I now believe that may be the source of my intake leak resulting in high idle.

My question is, rather than spend alot of money on a replacment airbox, can I just throw pods on there? I know the increased airflow can result in a lean condition (again) but is there any way to perhaps restrict them to bring that more inline with OE specs? Maybe put some covers on them? I really don't want to go into the carbs this season as i'm not sure I possess the mechanical acumen to do them (yet).

Any advice or comments are welcome, bit of a n00b here, and thanks.
 
Path of least resistance is to find a proper airbox. Pods will result in lean jetting and lots of fussing until you get it sorted.
 
yeah, figured as much.

By the air box being bent, I mean the opening going out to the left-side carb. I'm gonna try hanging a channel lock on the crease overnight and see if that straightens it enough to run until the replacement comes in.
 
If you don't yet have the mechanical acumen to go into the carbs, you don't want to install pods, because that will force you go go into the carbs to rejet.

.
 
Hi Mr. mostholycerebus,

Mr. Nessism speaks wisely. Putting pods on will require some fiddling, sometimes quite a bit of fiddling. Even if you restrict the airflow, you will still need to check your plugs (plug chops) to see if the combustion is nominal.

CLICK HERE for more information. Visit the Factory Pro link to get an idea of how to perform plug chops.

Just be informed of what you're getting into. Consider what's cheaper:

Pods + hours of experimentation + perhaps buying a jet kit + running too lean and burning a valve

Or...

A used stock airbox + reassembly and configure to factory specs (a known quantity)

I know. I'm an old fuddy duddy. I like simple, boring, stock. :D

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Yeah, i see a decent used on on ebay now. Bike bandit was showing $158 :eek: which prompted me to ask.

Another quick Q, please tell me simply removing and re-installing the carbs to change the boots and rings does NOT require any carb re-balancing. :confused:
 
Another quick Q, please tell me simply removing and re-installing the carbs to change the boots and rings does NOT require any carb re-balancing.
Click to expand...

No you don't have to sync them but how do you know if they are synced to begin with. It is better to check them then you know it has been done.
 
you will need to rebalance your carbs, sorry, by replacing the boots and o-rings you are sealing up any previous air leaks that would effect the carbs and give you a false balance. With everything now being sealed you can actually balance your carbs so they are all sucking the same amount of air.

with new boots/o-rings, cleaned carbs and the air box installed right you should be able to get it to idle around 1200 rpms

did the mech that did your carbs dip them and replace all the orings inside the carbs? If not i would start there and rebuild them yourself like in the clean up series, it should be pretty easy.

opps forgot to add if your air box is kinked and you can flatten it out some how and hold it that way with clamps, throw the box in the oven at 150/200 degrees for a hour or two, the heat will help the plastic relax. then leave it in there clamped untill it's cool to the touch.
 
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Thanks for the info guys. The mechanic is an old hand experienced with these carbs, even my 'weird' 2x 2-barrel setup. He said he replaced everything internal, and I believe him. He was a friend of the previous owner. I think what he may have done is accidentally overtighten the clamp around the left side intake, which caused it to buckle later and leak air inside.

First Timer, thanks, I was wondering if there was a way to just slightly heat the plastic and bend it back. I may try that next. I'm not adverse to an ebay box, but when buying used from a stranger you never know if your trading one problem for two.

almarconi said:
I don't know if people are just lazy or ignorant but doing a job half-assed always seem to take longer than doing it right the first time.
Click to expand...

In this case, ignorant. I've had my M classification for 4 months, and my ride time solely consists of the MSF course. I've owned the bike, my first, for just about 24 hours now, 3 of which were spent replacing all the intake boots and orings with new. I've no problem replacing what needs it, but of course i'd like to save what I can. I'm plenty handy with a car, and tuning ECMs, but this is my first bike. If you have anything else helpful to add I sure appreciate it, but if your sole purpose is to demean newbies asking questions about their classic Suzuki, your off-topic and i'd appreciate it more if you step the hell out of my thread.
 
mostholycerebus said:
If you have anything else helpful to add I sure appreciate it, but if your sole purpose is to demean newbies asking questions about their classic Suzuki, your off-topic and i'd appreciate it more if you step the hell out of my thread.
Click to expand...

I think Al's comment was focused on previous work done to your bike, and your need to do a complete job for happy results, as trying to "fix the fix" leads too many new owners to post up over and over about the same problem.

I note that you mention O rings, did the ones in the carbs get replaced also?
 
back in the day, the virago riders would install pod filters and install a washer to restrict the air flow so that rejetting wasnt necessary...looked great as i recall...
 
Big T said:
I note that you mention O rings, did the ones in the carbs get replaced also?
Click to expand...

My understanding is that the prev owner had them rebuilt, including internals. I spoke briefly with the mechanic and he seemed to know what he was talking about around these carbs, but I can't say with certainty what was/wasn't replaced. Regarding new internal orings. i'd sure appreciate if anyone has a good source, as i have already contacted Mr Barr and he does not carry them for these 'weird' 2x 2-barrel carbs.

Its together and running, but now idles real rough at under 2k and dies. Then it ran for about 30min at 2k and died, wouldn't start, battery low.

I may just hit the books on carb rebuilding, toss in some Dynajet stage 3's with pods and a 4-in-1 while i'm in there. That will run OK as a drop-in right? It may take a lot of tries to get it smooth, but working around that airbox is a freaking nightmare.

Thanks again for all the help guys!
 
only way to get orings for this would be to pull the ones in there, measure them and order some new vitron rings from mcmaster carr that are the closest you can find to what you measured.

There are a few guys that have these 1983+ 550's that should all run the same carbs I would start asking them what they did to sort out these carbs.

yes pods and jet kit would work. I would cross referance the carb specs of the 83 550 16 valve in the sticky at the top of this section and see if your carbs have the same internals. If they do then you can go about ordering a jet kit for the 83 550 from dynojet and get some matching k and n filters.

I would first trying to get the bike working with what you have then go to the pods otherwise it is just going to be that much more difficult dianosing the problem the farther you get from stock settings. At least you know if it is all stock and set to the factory settings it should work in theory.
 
I dont know if it is the same, but I you can have the air box off of my '82 550. I am not going to use it.
 
makr said:
I dont know if it is the same, but I you can have the air box off of my '82 550. I am not going to use it.
Click to expand...

Thanks man, but it looks like these are only found in the 83-85 GS550L's. The Dynojet kit is only for the GS550ES, which has slightly different carb specs, so maybe fate is telling me to go stock. ;) Gonna post a WTB and if that goes nowhere grab an Ebay airbox.

Thanks for the great advice and help guys.
 
Don't do it. Stick with the stock box my pods (installed by PO) are nothing but problems.
 
If you have anything else helpful to add I sure appreciate it, but if your sole purpose is to demean newbies asking questions about their classic Suzuki, your off-topic and i'd appreciate it more if you step the hell out of my thread.
Click to expand...

My comment was not directed personally at you and I would not try to demean you or anyone else. If you have read some of the threads on this forum it seems like people want to cut corners and then wonder why the bike won't run properly. For example..so my bike has been sitting for 20 years, I sprayed the carbs with carb cleaner and the bike doesn't idle..whats wrong with the bike? The brake fluid in my m/c looks like coffee do I need to change it? My gas tank in full of rust and no gas comes out the petcock..what should I do?
 
I think what almarconi meant with his comment was...you can't assume that the person who did the work on the bike previous to you owning it did it properly or was as thurough as you might be if you were doing it. It's better to double check something and rule it out for sure, than it is to assume that it is ok and dismiss it only to come back to it later to find out you'd have saved a lot of time and possibly money if you had checked that simple thing to begin with.
Bottom line, if you really want to be 100% sure of the work done, sometimes (not always) you have to do it yourself
 
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