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Can I use these pistons?

  • Thread starter Thread starter gsx1100e
  • Start date Start date
Looks like there is a nasty crack between the upper valve reliefs. Use them as ashtrays - not in your engine!
 
No sense in putting those back in your engine. If you've got it this far apart, put it back together like brand new again!
 
It's very difficult to assess the condition of these pistons without close inspection. Take them to a shop and have them magnafluxed. This will show any cracks, even those not visible to the naked eye.
 
Take them to a shop and have them magnafluxed. This will show any cracks, even those not visible to the naked eye.

You cannot have aluminum magnafluxed. The part has to be ferromagnetic (any metal that a magnet can stick to).

The correct inspection would be a dye penetrant test. Clean the area that you suspect a crack real well with carb cleaner or some other solvent type cleaner. Accetone works the best.

Soak the top of the piston in some Kerosene (put some red dye in it if you can get your hands on some) for 15 minutes, then wipe the piston clean be sure not to leave any residue on the surface. Dampen (be sure that it is only damp and not soaked, the less the better) a cloth with the solvent cleaner and wipe the part.

Sprinkle some baby powder on the top of the piston. The foot powder that comes in a spray can works too, just be sure you don't put too much on or get the can too close. If there any surface indications, the kerosene will be drawn out by the powder. The red dye would make it easier to use. There are a couple companies that make products for this type of test, but they tend to be a little expensive, since they are approved for Power Plants and Oil Refineries.

http://www.ndtsupply.com/shop/produ...keyword=Penetrant&str=s&id1=11&id2=94&id3=182
 
Katamaniac said:
Take them to a shop and have them magnafluxed. This will show any cracks, even those not visible to the naked eye.

You cannot have aluminum magnafluxed. The part has to be ferromagnetic (any metal that a magnet can stick to).

The correct inspection would be a dye penetrant test. Clean the area that you suspect a crack real well with carb cleaner or some other solvent type cleaner. Accetone works the best.

Soak the top of the piston in some Kerosene (put some red dye in it if you can get your hands on some) for 15 minutes, then wipe the piston clean be sure not to leave any residue on the surface. Dampen (be sure that it is only damp and not soaked, the less the better) a cloth with the solvent cleaner and wipe the part.

Sprinkle some baby powder on the top of the piston. The foot powder that comes in a spray can works too, just be sure you don't put too much on or get the can too close. If there any surface indications, the kerosene will be drawn out by the powder. The red dye would make it easier to use. There are a couple companies that make products for this type of test, but they tend to be a little expensive, since they are approved for Power Plants and Oil Refineries.

http://www.ndtsupply.com/shop/produ...keyword=Penetrant&str=s&id1=11&id2=94&id3=182
You are correct - a penatrative dye test is the method. I spoke without thinking.
 
can I check crank somehow?
How strong GS crank is, is it posible that there is no damage in crank?
it is -82 so it is not welded

I have new head for my engine so I could use old head as ashtray if I would smoke.
 
Take a good look at the journals. If you see any signs of scoring or overheating, you should either reair or replace it. You can also do the penetrant test on the crank.

On old machinists trick is to just wipe all th old oil off the crank and wipe with a rag dampened with solvent, then sprinkle with powder. The oil that is already impregnated into the crank will act as the penetrant.
 
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