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Can shop vac. change valve settings?

  • Thread starter Thread starter ptomkrvr
  • Start date Start date
P

ptomkrvr

Guest
Work is slow for me right now, so I have "jumped" on this poor GS. Here goes. I adjusted the valves buy the book, the Suzuki book, the one that coveres '83 GS 1100 GLD, 8 valve, which mine is. I waited a day, and checked again, all still fine, running from .05mm to .008mm. At the same time, I am cleaning the front forks, and most inportant, fiddling around with a rusted, corroded, nasty broken cam cover bolt. I settled on Advanced Autos flaver of helicoil, which I installed, and looks good, but the proof is in the puddding, not having replaced the cam cover yet. I had the motor covered for the metal bits from drilling/tapping, but to double check, I vaccumed each valve area....and the whole top of the engine. As I turned the motor to check the valve lobes for stuck bits, I had the great idea to check the valves again. They are all tight, .03mm is tight. I spun the motor for 30 sec. a coupla times. No change. Could it be some oil pressure thing caused by the shop vac? I'm stumped. Time to clean up. I will check again in the morning. advice/ comments welcome, and greatly appreciated ...corrections on spelling, you can keep, thanks
 
I'd call the valves done. You checked them twice. Go ride.
 
OldVet66 said:
If you are using standard feeler gauges, you will never get an accurate reading.
Click to expand...
Not sure why you are making that claim. :-k

I have always used "standard" feeler gauges and never had a problem. True, you may never get EXACTLY .05mm, but you are not going to get that with metric feelers, either. Just like using "standard" feelers, you will only know that the .04 gauge goes in and the .05 gauge does not. There is no way of knowing whether your clearance is .045 or .047. But, because that's in the middle of the range, it doesn't matter anyway. :o

There is no need to ever know exactly what your clearance is. The only thing you need to know is that it's larger than the minimum and not (much) larger than the maximum.

.
 
Thanks, I am a computer oaf. I put this damn thing in twice, thinking the first one (this one)went to mars. I have good gages. You might read my response to myself in the motor department. I had good readings before, true, but something has changed. I'm not going to button it up 'till I know.
 
The reason I said that was because I have had the same types of results. If you have been doing this for years, and have the touch for this, standard gauges may work for you, but some of the gauges are so thin that the use of the long gauges compared to the ones designed for this application are like night and day. I've used both types side by side. I nearly drove myself nuts with pages of readings all over the chart, that would seem to magically change from one careful reading to the next. The Z1 gauges are short enough, at just the right angle, and seem to drop in between the cam and shim when the measurement is right. Using the longer standard gauges right after a good read with the Z1 gauge might have been a struggle for me to get the gauge between the cam and shim without bending it. I'm not a mechanic, but real careful with what I do. The Z1 gauge will shave years of experience off the learning curve for the amateur, and the measurement will be the same time after time.
 
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Thank again, the guages it was, I,m gonna put the answer under the engine/drivetrain...section, where this first message was supposed to go.
 
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