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Can?t get out of neutral at a stop

  • Thread starter Thread starter willman
  • Start date Start date
W

willman

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My 450 just started doing this all the sudden. well moving I can shift through all gears and neutral, but if I shift into neutral at a stop I can?t get back out without the gears grinding. I thought it was a clutch issue so replaced it, same problem. I have to start it in 1st now and leave it in that at a stop. Anyone know what this is?
 
Sorry to tell you, but it is a clutch problem.
When you say you replaced it, what exactly did you replace?
What is your setting like? Both the cable and the clutch rod.
There should be just a millimeter or two of free play before the clutch takes up.
Did you not perhaps throw some super slippery goop like "slick 50" or one of those teflon additives into your motor, that could have contaminated your clutch plates, causing them to slip.
 
Sounds like one of 2 things 1 either the new clutch is not adjusted properly or your clutch basket is worn where your clutch discs ride [ the little tabs that stick out through the sides of the basket] if that is not smooth where those ride it will make your clutch hang and cause hard shifting, sometimes from neutral sometimes finding neutral. hope this helps
 
I replaced the whole clutch, it was one the po had giving me with the bike I thought I was new but when I opened it up it had obviously been used, but was in better shape then the one in there.
I?ve played around with the adjustments, that doesn?t seem to help.
Could it be the oil? It?s 10W-40, doesn?t say energy saving on it though.
 
how does the clutch cable look? does it slide smoothly and freely? if the bike creeps forward with the clutch pulled in, its not disengaging correctly.


hate to tell you,but putting your bike in neutral at stops is extremely stupid. theres a GREAT reason too.. people coming up behind you have NO IDEA whats going on aound them, their heads are that far up their rear ends, if you're in neutral, you wont have a chance to kick it into gear and save yourself from the ensuing SPLAT when their car makes you a pancake.
 
It is a clutch issue. Did you replace the clutch entirely, hub and all,l or just the plates. If just the plates, did you check them for warpage. When the metal plates get over heated they can warp. When they warp they act like spring washers and take up play in the clutch stack. This eliminates all the freeplay in the basket making it impossible for the clutch to completely release. A bad cluth cable can cause this too. If it is frayed or starting to break some where it won't hold the tension and streatch. this wont allow it to fully disengadge the clutch. This is all assuming you have adjusted the clutch propperly. The only other thing is if you have the plastinc clutch actuator mechanism. They can crack inside and not fully engadge the clutch rod. I'm not sure if all of the twins had them or not. But if your clutch cable goes inside the cover and attaches to a clovis leaver on a round actualor pull it off, then look to see if it's brolen or cracked.
 
Yes I know it?s not a good idea to put it in neutral at a stop, but sometimes I need to stretch or something and not being able to take my hand off the clutch is annoying.

As for the cable, I just reoiled it with silicon lube, it?s old but I didn?t see any damage.
The clutch screw/actuator is cracked at one of the mounting holes, but doesn?t seem to affect it?s function, although I looked for a new one and have had trouble finding them.
I do remember some of the plates in the new/used clutch where blue from heat, could that be a sign that they were warped?

Thanks for the help so far
 
willman said:
Yes I know it?s not a good idea to put it in neutral at a stop, but sometimes I need to stretch or something and not being able to take my hand off the clutch is annoying.

As for the cable, I just reoiled it with silicon lube, it?s old but I didn?t see any damage.
The clutch screw/actuator is cracked at one of the mounting holes, but doesn?t seem to affect it?s function, although I looked for a new one and have had trouble finding them.
I do remember some of the plates in the new/used clutch where blue from heat, could that be a sign that they were warped?

Thanks for the help so far
Click to expand...

It is most likely the actuator. The only way to be sure on the clutch plates is to put them on a flat surface and measure for high spots. But being blue means they got hot enough to warp.
 
The clutch screw/actuator is cracked at one of the mounting holes, but doesn?t seem to affect it?s function, although I looked for a new one and have had trouble finding them.
I do remember some of the plates in the new/used clutch where blue from heat, could that be a sign that they were warped?
Click to expand...

There you go, i would put my money down, there is your problem right there.
The cracked actuator may look as though it works fine, buy once all bolted up, once it pushes on the clutch rod, the force against it will cause it to split and open sideways at the crack, to a certain extent, instead of pushing on the rod and releasing the clutch.

Also, if the plates are blue, they have been well cooked, replace them.
A new clutch cable will not hurt either while you are in there.
It may cost a few bob, but you will not believe the silky smoothness of your new clutch.
 
The only ones i have been able to find so far are about three old well used ones on ebay, and the want like $30 for them. anyone have a better source?
thanks, willman
 
willman said:
The only ones i have been able to find so far are about three old well used ones on ebay, and the want like $30 for them. anyone have a better source?
thanks, willman
Click to expand...
You talking about USED cables for $30? :eek:

Why get ripped off on eBay when you can get a new, OEM cable from an established Suzuki dealer for $10?

Name ............. Part number ................................ Retail ..... Cost
CABLE, CLUTCH 58200-11900 (replaces 58200-44210) $13.70 ... $10.11

Yeah there will be a modest shipping charge, but you'll get that on eBay, too. :rolleyes:

.
 
just get new OEM parts the cost is not that much more but the durability and longevity will be there when you need it as long as you maintain you equipment you should get many yrs of service from them. All said parts are available from Suzuki
 
willman said:
The only ones i have been able to find so far are about three old well used ones on ebay, and the want like $30 for them. anyone have a better source?
thanks, willman
Click to expand...

If you're referring to the clutch release mechanism rather than the cables, then Boulevard Suzuki is the place to go.

26SCREW ASSY, RELEASE
23200-44101 (replaces 23200-44100) 1$44.67$34.04

That's right, $34.04 is the true blue OEM price from them, only $4 more than the second hand ones of eBay plus postage.

Take note that the above is for my 1981 GS450E, but I have no idea what year yours is or what model either...
 
yes, i was talking about the clutch screw, not the cable. the Boulevard Suzuki site is helpful; I would rather spend the $ on new part, but I'm still looking for some place cheaper.
 
From the prices I've seen around, you won't see cheaper than Boulevard.

Partshark is the other cheap one I've seen, but not as cheap.

Also, Ashley at Boulevard is very helpful, so you will get good service to go with your good price, winner all round :D
 
Splat

Splat

To bobthebiker88,if u keep it in first gear to get out of the way when there is people coming up behind you,when exactly do you get it in gear and move out of the way?,when ther 40 feet behind you?,30,20.10feet,?And wouldn't be incredibly stupid to move up or out of the way at a stop light or a stop sign? no offense, but I think your idea sounds incredibly stupid and paranoid.
 
The best price so far is from the site Steve posted, $33 :) a little update, looking at the clutch screw I saw that the po had put the plastic on backwards, an easy mistake as you would think the metal embedded side of the plastic would be in between the mounting screws and the plastic, but it needed to be on the other side to back up the plastic. This is what caused it to crack, flipping it around almost completely fixed the problem. I?ll still need to get a new one, but it?s nice to know this is the problem.
 
Nice one!

And Steve, I must apologise... I neglected to follow the link you posted which means I didn't see that site... I know better now :o
 
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