• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Can You Remove the Oil Cooler?

  • Thread starter Thread starter phaeton
  • Start date Start date
P

phaeton

Guest
OK, my oil lines on my 1984 Suzuki GS550EF are seeping oil quite regularily now and I need to replace them, but Suzuki Canada said they are discontinued.

I've searched for these lines high and low and cannot find any... now I was thinking that the oil cooler is quite small, so would it be at all possible to just remove it from the engine loop and plug the holes with the proper bolts where the hoses attach to? Would this create circulation problems?

Or does anyone know where to get these lines and how much to expect to pay for them?
 
from what I think i know, an oil cooler only recirculates 1/3 of the total oil that is pumped. I would just plug the holes unless someone knows a reason why not. another suggestion is to replace the connections on the oil filter cover or whatever wit connections that will accept hoses. Cut the lines going into the oil cooler and get some hose to slide over them. I'm assuming that there is enough steel line on the oil cooler ends.
 
Re: Can You Remove the Oil Cooler?

Take your oil cooler along with the lines and the fittings on the ends of the lines and go to a hydraulic repair shop. they will be able to crimp and fit new hoses, etc to your cooler with the correct metric threads, etc. Cost shouldnt be excvessive. I think its an exceptionally bad idea to remove the oil cooler and cap off the outlets. The engine is going to run hotter and that is never a good thing. (unless of course all your riding is across icebergs in the antarctic. :-) )

Earl


phaeton said:
OK, my oil lines on my 1984 Suzuki GS550EF are seeping oil quite regularily now and I need to replace them, but Suzuki Canada said they are discontinued.

I've searched for these lines high and low and cannot find any... now I was thinking that the oil cooler is quite small, so would it be at all possible to just remove it from the engine loop and plug the holes with the proper bolts where the hoses attach to? Would this create circulation problems?

Or does anyone know where to get these lines and how much to expect to pay for them?
 
By excessive... what do you mean? :) I'm a poor student on a small budget hehe...
 
I could be wrong on this Scotty, but my understanding is that all of the oil goes through through the oil cooler except for about 1/3 which goes through the bypass. The reason for the bypass is a safety in case the cooler becomes clogged.

Earl

scotty said:
from what I think i know, an oil cooler only recirculates 1/3 of the total oil that is pumped. I would just plug the holes unless someone knows a reason why not. another suggestion is to replace the connections on the oil filter cover or whatever wit connections that will accept hoses. Cut the lines going into the oil cooler and get some hose to slide over them. I'm assuming that there is enough steel line on the oil cooler ends.
 
earlfor said:
I could be wrong on this Scotty, but my understanding is that all of the oil goes through through the oil cooler except for about 1/3 which goes through the bypass. The reason for the bypass is a safety in case the cooler becomes clogged.

Earl

scotty said:
from what I think i know, an oil cooler only recirculates 1/3 of the total oil that is pumped. I would just plug the holes unless someone knows a reason why not. another suggestion is to replace the connections on the oil filter cover or whatever wit connections that will accept hoses. Cut the lines going into the oil cooler and get some hose to slide over them. I'm assuming that there is enough steel line on the oil cooler ends.

I thought it was the other way. Im not sure but i believe we have been over the quantities many times, whatever the results are.
 
OK guys, what if the bike is limited to short-ish commutes, no long highway runs, and I don't ride it very aggresively in the city, would it still overheat?
 
No one actually said it would overheat. The longer runs could actually keep the engine cooler.
 
there are over 4000 post relating to the word oil. i suggest you use the search feature and keep refining your search till you find what you want. I am positive we have done this item a dozen times.
 
I'll have to find my oil cooler flow diagrams. Of one thing I AM certain, the oil is going somewhere. :-)

Earl


scotty said:
I thought it was the other way. Im not sure but i believe we have been over the quantities many times, whatever the results are.
 
OK, I've searched for an hour and I haven't seen this discussed, and I went to 6 different hydraulic line companys and none said they could get the fittings from my lines.

I'm nearly going insane because of this... any suggestions?
 
phaeton said:
OK, I've searched for an hour and I haven't seen this discussed, and I went to 6 different hydraulic line companys and none said they could get the fittings from my lines.

I'm nearly going insane because of this... any suggestions?

try drinking lots of wine and maybe one of the guys will find the info in the meantime.

come on guys I know one of you can find the info for this guy. :D :D
 
This may be a bad idea, but how about teflon tape or permatex or some other type of sealer on the connectors? Obviously it would have to be oil-resistant and something that wouldn't come loose and clog the oilways...this is definitely NOT an application where silicone would be appropriate.
 
IanFrancisco said:
This may be a bad idea, but how about teflon tape or permatex or some other type of sealer on the connectors? Obviously it would have to be oil-resistant and something that wouldn't come loose and clog the oilways...this is definitely NOT an application where silicone would be appropriate.

Im still not sure exactly where the oil is seeping from???? got a digital camera maybe???
 
I have no camera, and the entire lines are wet, but it looks like its coming from JUST below where you would put your wrench on the upper part of the line (so the upper nut, has a small metal piece that goes to the part that crimps to the line, and its where that small metal piece is).

Tomorrow I'm going to completely clean the outside of the line and drive checking very often to see exactly where its coming from.
 
phaeton said:
I have no camera, and the entire lines are wet, but it looks like its coming from JUST below where you would put your wrench on the upper part of the line (so the upper nut, has a small metal piece that goes to the part that crimps to the line, and its where that small metal piece is).

Tomorrow I'm going to completely clean the outside of the line and drive checking very often to see exactly where its coming from.

Could it be that you've got a loose fitting or the aluminum washer is bad somehow? I think you got the oil line fitting with an aluminum washer between the cooler and the fitting, another washer on top between the fitting and the flats of the hollow bolt that hold it all in place.

Try putting a wrench on it and turning VERY LIGHTLY in the loosening direction. If the bolt is loose from vibration or something it wonty take much to get it free. If it turns on you with almost no effort try to tighten it a little...remember those are some soft threads so don't over do it!

If it isn't loose and the oil is leaking from around one of the aluminum dealing washers take those puppie out and go to your local Mom & Pop hardware store... Oh, they went out of business huh? Well HomeDespot will have to do then. They should have a range of copper washers in the plumbing dept, find one with the same ID and give that a shot.

/\/\ac
 
I was thinking of the washers also. They are a lot like the washers on spark plugs.
 
Home Depot carries the correct size aluminum crush washers. Ask me how I know. :-)

Earl


Macmatic said:
phaeton said:
Well HomeDespot will have to do then. They should have a range of copper washers in the plumbing dept, find one with the same ID and give that a shot.

/\/\ac
 
I had a similar weep actually it was hole caused by contact with the header. I totally smoked a truck I just past on a straightaway luckily. Back tire covered in oil. The truck ended up pulling over to help.

Anyway, the fittings where the hose crimps to the steel portion of the line can be carefully dremeled or hacksawed off and replaced with fuel injector line I believe or high temp hose.

It may be a bit crude, but I have 2 hose clamps per line (one on each end) and have done trackdays and numerous street miles with no problems.

This was on an 1150 and I'm assuming on the 550 where the banjo bolt attaches is a short steel portion of line, then the crimp and hose.
 
Back
Top