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Carb and Airbox Install 82' GS750E

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anthony
  • Start date Start date
A

Anthony

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So I'll be getting my airbox tomorrow in the air, and will be putting it all together and also re-install the carbs with the airbox. What should I remember to do as far as installing the airbox for the first time? My bike didn't come with it, I had to get it used. It had pods before. Should I make sure the seals are okay, and if not, use weatherstripping to get a proper seal? How do I align the boots properly for the airbox? I just want to make sure I know what I'm doing when I start it. Thanks all!
 
Anthony, when you say airbox, do you mean the entire assembly? There is the box that attaches to the carbs, an air filter box, and a tube that connects the two.
 
I'm getting the whole assembly tomorrow, and I have the parts already here for it that it was missing. I just want to make sure I connect it up and seal it properly, but I haven't handled one yet so I'm not sure what it all entails.
 
- Seal the air cleaner box lid with weather stripping
- new rubber boots all the way around
- install both air boxes
- drop in the air filter
- button up the lid
- good to go
 
To add a bit more info:
First install the part that fits on the carbs, after making sure the boots are pliable. Leave it loose, not bolted down.
Install the carbs after installing the throttle and choke cables. It is not an easy task. Fit them into the airbox first, push them back into the box as far as possible, then fit the carbs into the boots in the head. Takes a while to wiggle them around enough to get all 4 carbs in the boots. Make sure they are fully in the boots, they tend to try to back out. Not sure why. Clamp them down securely, then clamp them to the airbox.
Fit the tube that goes between the airbox and the air filter box, but leave the clamps extremely loose.
Install the air filter box into the tube, wiggle it around until you can bolt it to the frame then do so.
Clamp down the tube.
Install the air filter. It does not clamp down, but you will see how it secures. Make sure it is securely fitted or it will come loose with engine vibrations (ask me how I know).
If you also have a lid (they are rare) put the weatherstripping in it and bolt it down. If not, at the very least put duct tape over the top opening. The top must be closed. I fashioned a lid out of a sheet of ABS plastic that worked just fine.
 
Thanks for the tips! And yes, I have the lid on my airbox that is coming. Another question, what type of weatherstripping/adhesive should I use for the lid? I have seal-all sealant/adhesive (gas/oil resistant) and gorilla glue.
 
Closed-cell weather stripping from any hardware store. Around 1/4" thickness, almost any width.

No glue, sealant, adhesive at all.
 
So, I have my airbox ready (except an air filter, which I thought an OEM one was going to come with it). To clarify, do I install the front plenum to the carbs first, attach cables and then put carbs on engine? Then connect the air filter box? Just want to make sure I'm doing this the easiest way. It seems that the front plenum to carbs part is not going to be fun. I'm not sure if I should spray wd-40 on the boots for easier install or not :/
 
Good advice in that thread above.

I will sometimes use just a bit (very light squirt, spread around with finger) of silicone spray on the inside of the intake manifold boots, but nothing at all on the other boots.
 
Thanks, this is what I was looking for. Also, before I install all this dang stuff, I want to double check something about my carbs. I have a 4-1 pipe and now a stock airbox. The carbs have DJ stage 3 kit in it, and the mains are 130's. The needle clip is at the 3rd groove. Is this all good for getting it close? Then I can just adjust the mixture screws/sync?
 
You will need to go smaller on your main jets. If you purchased a DynoJet Stage 3 kit new, it has 2 ranges of jets. The larger range is for a pipe and pods and is called the Stage 3 kit. The smaller range is called a Stage 1 and is for a pipe only. You should have gotten both ranges in your Stage 3 kit. Just install the smaller range of main jets and you will be in the ballpark.
 
See I'm glad I asked this question. That's what I was wondering, but I haven't been so sure. Sometimes you over research things and you forget stuff. So 124's for the mains and the needle location at 3 should put it ballpark besides the mixture screw procedure?
 
Do after battling with the airbox and carbs for an hour and a half, I got her in there! I just hope it doesn't back out, even though I clamped it good. This will be an interesting experience, and I can see the appeal for pods haha
 
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