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Carb Boots

  • Thread starter Thread starter 81GS
  • Start date Start date
8

81GS

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Where can I get some new carb boots for the motor side of the carberators? I'm working on a 81 GS-850 and one of the rubber boots has some cracks in it and looks to be coming off. They appear to be molded to the metal????:confused: I ordered new gaskets and allen screws from cycle o rings.

Bob L.
 
Hi,

PIPE, INTAKE RH
part# 13110-45100 2 required $22.91

PIPE, INTAKE LH
part# 13120-45100 2 required $22.91

...from www.partshark.com, probably the best price on the internet.



Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Hi,

Here's a picture. You want #25 and #26...

2142_2.gif


You might as well get four of #29 while you're at it. We usually get those from cycleorings.com, but there's no use paying two shipping charges. :)

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Last edited:
I ordered a new one from partshark.com today :D. Hey Basscliff, how many turns out on the air/fuel mixture screw on a 81 GS-850 with stock airbox set up? :confused:
 
I'm not BassCliff, but I will suggest between 2 and 3 turns out from lightly seated. :o

After it's warmed up, tweak them for highest idle speed.

.
 
Speaking of "highest idle method", I found this on some guy's website...

Adjusting Idle Mixture, Using the Highest RPM Method (by Mr. psyguy)

  1. Take off the tank, set up some form of remote fuel supply.
  2. Set the idle mixture screws at 2 turns out.
  3. Warm up the engine and let it run.
  4. Adjust the idle to approx. 900 rpm.
  5. SLOWLY turn the screw at carb #1 in - at some point, the rpm are going to start dropping and the engine won't run as smoothly.
  6. Start turning the screw back out until you get the highest rpm and a smoother sound from the engine.
  7. At some point, turning the screw out further won't make any difference (and even further out may again take away the smoothness and the rpm).
  8. You want your screw turned IN as much as possible without affecting the rpm/smoothness.
  9. Re-adjust the idle to 900 rpm.
  10. Stop the engine to let it cool down a bit or place a big fan in front of the engine and do this while the outside air is cooler (morning/winter).
  11. Proceed with carb #2.
  12. Repeat steps 4 through 10, as necessary, for all carburetors.
  13. When complete, re-adjust the idle knob for the correct rpm as per your factory manual (usually 1050 rpm +/-100 rpm). In any case, do not idle below 900 rpm as this may result in insufficient oil flow.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Well I got the parts I needed and put the carbs back on the bike. It starts up just fine, but when I run the RPM's up it back fires through the exhaust. I took it for a ride and it lags then picks up then lags :confused:. Could this be a timing problem? Maybe the valves need adjusting??? Any help would be appreciated.

Bob L.
 
Well I got the parts I needed and put the carbs back on the bike. It starts up just fine, but when I run the RPM's up it back fires through the exhaust. I took it for a ride and it lags then picks up then lags :confused:. Could this be a timing problem? Maybe the valves need adjusting??? Any help would be appreciated.

Bob L.

A problem like this is not typically the valves but it's hard to say. Suzuki calls for valve adjustment every 4000 miles or so, so you should get caught up if you don't know the bikes history or haven't adjusted the valves yourself within that range.
 
Also, the proper sequence for a 'tune-up' is 1) valve adjustment, 2) ignition timing, 3) carb adjustment. The valves will have an effect on how much air gets sucked through the carbs, so they need to be adjusted first. It is hard to judge how well your mixture is burning if it's burning at the wrong time, so that needs to be checked. Nice part is, though, that with the bikes that have electronic ignition ('80-and-up), you only have to check/set it once. It should not change after that.

.
 
i aplologize in advance if this is a dumb question. but on this topic is it possible to sync the carbs without the mano.?
 
Is it possible? in a word no it's not. but, if the compression numbers are close and you are very careful with your bench synch-ing; you can get them close.

can you find someone close to you than can synch them?
 
Hey, that highest rpm method of adjusting idle is really tough on an inline 4 cylinder bike, you'd want to be syncronized first for sure. I cant manage it on the 1150 (not saying much) It worked ok on the venture and any twin.
Also...you'll want a good sized fan to move air across the engine while you are playing with it.
 
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