• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Carb dip assistance

  • Thread starter Thread starter pdqford
  • Start date Start date
P

pdqford

Guest
I have the #1 carb from my 1980 GS750ET ready to go in the dip.

I see that these carbs do not have an air screw adjustment. I'm just wondering, if there is an air screw adjustment under the sealed plug, and if it has an o-ring, will that cause problems when I put the carb body in the dip?

Additionally, I see that the inlet valve seat contans a plastic dohicky that holds a filter screen to the inlet valve seat. Is that filter screen supposed to be removeable, or do I just not dip the inlet valve seat?

(BTW, I've owned this machine for some 27 years and the carbs have never been apart in that time, but they look pretty darn clean inside.)

Thanks in advance for any guidence offered.
 
Yes, there is a screw under that plug, yes it has a rubber o ring.
The screen should pop off, but no reason to dip the valve if you can see it is completely clean inside.
Why are you dipping it, is it running incorrectly?
 
yes there is a oring on the screw. you will have to gently remove the plug by drilling it out. also the little screens do come off, but i just left mine on and they survived a 12 hour dip without causing any harm to the screen.
 
tkent02 said:
Why are you dipping it, is it running incorrectly?
Click to expand...
Yes, last summer it began idleing inconsistantly and the outside of the carbs were looking ratty with gas stains. When pulling the carbs I think I found most of the idleing problems with a crack in one of the intake boots.

With all the discussions here about how much better they run with freshly dipped carbs, I figured it was time. I am also going to check the valve adjustment since that has never been done, either
 
kparkfan said:
yes there is a oring on the screw. you will have to gently remove the plug by drilling it out.
Click to expand...
Okay, I'll try my hand at getting the sealed plugs out. And henceforth, I will be able to adjust the air mixture screw for the best idle?

kparkfan said:
also the little screens do come off, but i just left mine on and they survived a 12 hour dip without causing any harm to the screen.
Click to expand...
I was afraid that I was gonna break the little plastic thing that retains the little screen, so mine will go in the dip also.

Thanks to all for your guidence.
 
If the float seat looks clean I'd leave it out of the dip. To remove the pilot screw caps, drill a small hole though the cap but do not drill deeply (just though the cap) or you will hit the screw undernieth. Once you have a hole in the cap, use a sheet metal screw in the screw and pry the cap out.
 
I don't know about this dipping stuff. I guess if the carb is so clogged and there is no other resolution. I have never dipped a carb. Maybe I was lucky.

I hope people are still checking with carb cleaner, the passages to see if they are clear.
 
pdqford said:
I was afraid that I was gonna break the little plastic thing that retains the little screen, so mine will go in the dip also.
Click to expand...

Don't put the little plastic screen in the dip - it will eat it.

They just pry off the end of the float seats - a small screwdriver blade should pop it right off. Keep your eye on it though, they tend to fly off to never-never land!!
 
zathros said:
I don't know about this dipping stuff. I guess if the carb is so clogged and there is no other resolution. I have never dipped a carb. Maybe I was lucky.

I hope people are still checking with carb cleaner, the passages to see if they are clear.
Click to expand...

Go read though the archives and you will fine newbie after newbie that "cleaned the carbs" only to continue to have problems afterwards because they did a half a$$ed job. Another thing people often short cut is unganging the carbs; the O-rings on the interconnect tubes are prone to drying out and cracking. I've done about half a dozen sets of GS carbs and these interconnect O-rings typically crack and crumble as soon as you touch them. If the carbs are free from varnish when the float bowls are removed, you can sometimes get away without dipping, but the carbs should still be unganged and the O-rings changed.
 
What is being used as the solvent for the dip? I have never had carbs that were that varnished. My bike was parked 18 years and the carbs looked like new inside (not bad outside either). I pickled the bike with Marvel Mystery Oil" so that may have helped. I sprayed my bike with carb cleaner to listen for changes in RPM but had non so they were sealed good. The pilot jets were clogged but I cleaned them and am waiting for the rubber plugs that turned gummy on me. I am interested in the chemical used for dipping as I have a couple of other old vehicles that may need that kind of attention.

I understand the half a$$ed job part, that comes with the territory. I guess 4 cans of carb cleaner could qualify as some kind of chemical dipping.
 
zathros said:
What is being used as the solvent for the dip?
Click to expand...
I'm using Gunk - "Carburetor & Parts Cleaner"

Carb body #1 and its parts have had their turn in the dip bucket and have been treated to a nice bath it hot soapy dish detergent afterwards. They just finished some time with the air compressor nozzel. All these pieces parts look brandy new! :clap:
 
Thanks for the reply. I just researched some of the other stuff and the chemicals kind of scared me. I have been exposed to many chemicals in my life, especially after working as a machinists for Sikorsky Aircraft for 9 years and other various machine shops. They have a way of catching up with you.

If my carbs end up needing I will start with the Gunk product. Anyone every try using the "Seam Foam" stuff? There some people who really seem to like it.
 
zathros said:
What is being used as the solvent for the dip? I have never had carbs that were that varnished. My bike was parked 18 years and the carbs looked like new inside (not bad outside either). I pickled the bike with Marvel Mystery Oil" so that may have helped. I sprayed my bike with carb cleaner to listen for changes in RPM but had non so they were sealed good. The pilot jets were clogged but I cleaned them and am waiting for the rubber plugs that turned gummy on me. I am interested in the chemical used for dipping as I have a couple of other old vehicles that may need that kind of attention.

I understand the half a$$ed job part, that comes with the territory. I guess 4 cans of carb cleaner could qualify as some kind of chemical dipping.
Click to expand...

I picked up the Berrymans Chem Dip from Orielly's. Comes in a gallon can with a mesh basket with a handle. The mesh holes are small enough to put the tiny jet parts in without them falling through. Stuff works great. This is the first time I used it and I am impressed with the results.
 
zathros said:
If my carbs end up needing I will start with the Gunk product. Anyone every try using the "Seam Foam" stuff? There some people who really seem to like it.
Click to expand...

SeaFoam is a good product. But it is basicly an alcohol based solvent cleaner. If you use it, start with a half can per tank full of gas, run that through fairly quicly (like with a week) and then do it again with the other half of a can. BUT if you have e-10 gas in your area I would HIGHLY recommend you not to use it. It, being alcohol based, adds to the alcohol already in the fuel and can wreck havec with the older fuel system on these bike. not to mentiom effectivly "washing" the cylinder walls of the oils.

The product I use with great success is AMSOIL P.I. it has no alcohol in it. You can get it through a local AMSOIL dealer go to www.amsoil.com
In my personal opinion, I think it works better then SeaFoam, Amsoil is also offering a money back Garantee on it. I use 2 oz. per 5 gallons of gas twice a season in my bikes.

Also, if you use either of these product, install a fuel filter in line, They both clean the varnish out of the tanks and the filter is just cheap insurance that no bits get down into the carbs.
 
I think I'll go with the AMSOIL, the alcohol cleaning the cylinder walls is the last thing I need.
 
Fuel additives are good if your carbs have fresh O-rings installed, but the bike sat for a while and now runs a little rough. Seafoam and similar are a waste of time though if the carb O-rings are old and hard.
 
duheme said:
BUT if you have e-10 gas in your area I would HIGHLY recommend you not to use it. It, being alcohol based, adds to the alcohol already in the fuel and can wreck havec with the older fuel system on these bike. not to mentiom effectivly "washing" the cylinder walls of the oils.
Click to expand...
This is the first time I have ever heard any cautions about mixing SeaFoam and E-10 gasoline. :eek:

Believe me, I would have heard it long ago. Besides basically living on this forum, I also participate on a Honda GoldWing forum, Kawasaki Voyager forum and Honda ST1300 forum. All of these forums have many long-distance riders with carefully-formulated opinions on what works best, most of it based on personal experience. Many of them carry either SeaFoam or MMO with them and use it either a small amount every tank or a little more every third or fourth tank, but nobody has ever menitoned any problems mixing it with E-10.

.
 
Follow up Question

Follow up Question

I have removed the 'tamper-proof' plugs over the "Idle Mixture Screws". Since these screws are on the top side of the carb, seems to me the opening will fill up with water and 'stuff' and eventually seize the idle mixture screws in place. Those little rubber plugs that cover the pilot jet openings almost fit. I was thinking of putting a dab of clear silicone caulk to cover the idle mixture screw opening.

What do others use in place of the tamper-proof plugs to keep crud out of the idle mixture screw openings?
 
pdqford said:
I have removed the 'tamper-proof' plugs over the "Idle Mixture Screws". Since these screws are on the top side of the carb, seems to me the opening will fill up with water and 'stuff' and eventually seize the idle mixture screws in place. Those little rubber plugs that cover the pilot jet openings almost fit. I was thinking of putting a dab of clear silicone caulk to cover the idle mixture screw opening.

What do others use in place of the tamper-proof plugs to keep crud out of the idle mixture screw openings?
Click to expand...

Most of us don't put anything over the pilot screw but your concern is valid I think. Personally I think a little grease would be easier to clean up compared to silicone but most likely wouldn't be as effective.
 
My idle screws are too tight to try and remove. I am going to have to heat the carb bodies. I may or may not do this, depending how the bike runs. The circuits are clean and gas is blowing out the hole. I'll know in a couple of days.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top