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Carb Dip

  • Thread starter Thread starter Julia
  • Start date Start date
J

Julia

Guest
Hi! Me again. In the state of Maryland, I can not get carb dip in the gallon can with the basket. Maryland banned a chemical used in this product so it's now illegal to sell it here. Is there something else I can soak the carbs in? Would spraying carb cleaner in a metal container do the trick? Would I have to change out the fluid everytime?

Julia

'82 GS650
 
Howdy, Julia! I'm a fellow Marylander and also own an 82 GS650! What part of Maryland are you from?

I think I've seen some carb dips at local autozones, but I could be mistaken. Yamaha does make a water-based carb cleaner that you can probably get at any motorcycle store (or at the very least, dealers). It's not too expensive.
 
I saw that GUNK makes an envrio friendly carb dip. Probably going to try that out. I'm in Annapolis. You?
 
If you can cross the border into Virginia, you can get Berryman's at AutoZone or Gunk at either AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts. AutoZone is a bit cheaper. Because we here in VA don't care about the environment :p
 
Julia said:
I saw that GUNK makes an envrio friendly carb dip. Probably going to try that out. I'm in Annapolis. You?
Click to expand...

Saint Leonard. About an hour south of you. Just head straight down 2/4 :)
 
I have stripped and dipped in a bucket of strong "cold water" washing powder solution for clothes, overnight and found all the varnish even on the outside cleaned off. Then rinsed well in clean water, and used a good penetrating oil spray, then cleaned again with spray carb cleaner, compressed air and probing as one would normally.
Maybe your fuel and washing powders are different, but your carbs may even be whiter than white!
 
I just got some @ NAPA, in Grasonville here on the Eastern Shore...it's not as good as the GUNK-of-yore, but it did real good on my carbs after an overnite soak. I live in Crofton, MD. If you run into a dead-end, you could borrow mine for a set of carbs...NO SPILLS!!!! :)
Hugh
 
My guy at Advance auto parts was WRONG! I found Chem-dip 1 gal bucket with the enclosed basket. As soon as I get the carb rebuild kits and o-rings, I will be attempting my very first carb rebuild. Hope I don't screw it up. :)
 
Julia said:
My guy at Advance auto parts was WRONG! I found Chem-dip 1 gal bucket with the enclosed basket. As soon as I get the carb rebuild kits and o-rings, I will be attempting my very first carb rebuild. Hope I don't screw it up. :)
Click to expand...

I'm in the rebuild process.. it's fun ;-)
 
one thing i learned about that carb dip is that it can defiantly take longer than you think; not always but sometimes. Took me 4 days of soaking a fuel bowl to open up the choke hole.
 
Soak em for at LEAST 24 hours each. Not the 30 mins the can of dip tells you. If theyve been sitting for any length of time (which most of em have) 30 minutes wont do squat.
 
Another tip I can give you is to ORGANIZE.

An easy way to keep stuff for each carb away from stuff for other carbs is to use disposable muffin tins.
My wife came home from Big Lots one day with three two-packs and asked "will these do for your carbs?"
IMG_3640.jpg


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I have completed the carb rebuild process. With the new intake boots and origional air box reinstalled, I installed the carbs one summer afternoon a week ago. It was getting to the point where I needed flash lights to finish. I placed the key in the ignition and turned. IT STARTED! Ran great untill I had to shut it off because I didn't want my engine to overheat.
Now... I called around to price sout how much someone else would charge to synch them. All said they had to clean then synch them and it would be $700 to $1000. One even called me ignorant and didn't know what I was doing. Very rude. So I'm going to buy the tool myself and figure it out.
Now when someone says to go off the 3rd carb to synch to, do they mean the carb with the throttle cable attached? And all the information should be in the book on what the settings should be? I want to synch them before winter.
 
I've got two gallons of carb dip with baskets. If you still need it, let me know.
 
Julia said:
Now when someone says to go off the 3rd carb to synch to, do they mean the carb with the throttle cable attached?
Click to expand...
That is correct. The cylinders (and, therefore, the carbs) are numbered from left to right as you are sitting on the bike.
That means that #1 is under your clutch hand and #4 is under your throttle hand. :D

Yes, the settings are all in the manual. Just be aware that you are not looking for any particular vacuum numbers. In fact many gauge sets don't even have numbers. You are looking for the balance from one cylinder to another, so it's best to have a gauge set that 'sees' all four cylinders at the same time. I mention this because some members here have fashioned their own gauges, but with varying levels of success. For all the time and effort to engineer and make a set, you can buy one that is ready to go.

Z1 sells a set of four round, analog gauges from Motion Pro for about $50. They also sell a set that is filled with a non-toxic fluid for about $85. Probably the best gauge set available is the Morgan Carbtune. It comes from England, and I think the current exchange rate prices it out to about $95 right now, but it's worth the money.

Whichever set you use, you will observe the level of #3, then match #2 to that. If you have stock airbox and exhaust pipes, you will then adjust #1 to about .5 cm higher than 2&3. Last, adjust #4 to match #1. If you have a 4-into1 exhaust system, adjust them so they are all the same.

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