• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Carb help please

  • Thread starter Thread starter BurtyMcSquirt
  • Start date Start date
Just for future reference, from a KZ forum, THIS picture illustrates one of the biggest distinguishing features of VM29 smoothbores vs OEM VM26/28 carbs, VM22 and VM24 have rows of ribs on them on the slide towers so they look similar but notably differentiated.
The little square casting on the right sides of the carbs gives away the smoothbores. Most all but the first year have large hex plugs on the bottom for quick change main jet access. and they are clearly made of solid aluminum alloy, not the cheap zinc-aluminum pot metal alloy that all the OEM VM's and most other older OEM carbs are made out of, so the smoothbore VM29's are 1/3 the weight of OEM, as are Keihin CR Special smoothbores.
Looking at the inlet sides of the carbs is also notably different from stock Mikuni VM##SS carbs

Smoothbore-3.jpg


The biggest and most important difference is the jet block/hollow slide construction, which can only be seen looking through the venturi (throat). The slide is hollow, and slips right over the jet block. the jet block bolts into the center of the carb and it IS the venturi for the center, sort of like a removeable center section of the throat of the carb. So that the slide just has a tiny round vertical slice of a channel that it moves up and down in, instead of the entire center of the carb being interrupted by a large vertical bored out round section the size of the outside of the slide, which on normal carbs, you see when carbs are at Wide Open Throttle and there is a big recess on the left and right where the slide formerly occupied. a rather large recess. On smoothbores, you just see a little sliver of a slide taken out of the left and right where the perimeter of the hollow smoothbore slide runs. This creates much better jet signal and much smoother airflow, as there isn't a big void on the left and right sides of the throat of the carb right where all the atomization of fuel occurs. constant velocity of airflow, not a disruption of velocity.


Sorry for side tracking your thread, but since you were confused about misinformation about your bike having smoothbores, I thought I'd take the opportunity to point out what they really were, since so many people have the same confusion.

Hollow smoothbore slide:
mikuni-vm33-smoothbore-throttle-slide-daf.jpg



and the bolt-in jet block center section of the carb that the slide makes up the "smooth bore" center of the venturi:
z1e_4014.jpg

basically... on a non-smoothbore VM carb, OEM style VM, almost NONE of the metal you see in the lower picture of the jet block would be there, so that the center throat of the carb has a big bulging void here the solid slide travels. the smoothbore uses the jet block and hollow slide to eliminate almost all of the disruption of that big hollowing bulging void.

illustrating the different look up front for the air jet boss areas:
vm29side.jpg



On a built bike that is 750cc or more, the 29mm VM smoothbores are a big performance upgrade. for 550's and 650's that have a lot of mods, head work, bigger cams, Keihin makes a CR Special in 26mm as well. Mikuni only made 29's and 33's and they are long out of production. Keihin still makes the CR Specials in 26, 29, 31,33,35, and I believe another size or two larger. 33 is about as big as you want to go for even a monster built 1100cc street engine. 26/29/31 is the range for hot rod street bikes. 35+ is for racing only, poor low end response, only good for high rpm use

I will stop hijacking your thread now...







Let us know about your fuel dripping issue, if it is a cracked overflow tube, or in fact sticking float or float needle.
 
Last edited:
Yes, I am overwhelmed. Be careful what you ask for... Just kiddin Chuck! Thank you for the info and good reading. Mr Burty, If you are getting a new pipe in the future why try jetting now? It will probably change again. Get all the variables mentioned here done over the winter. Nothing has been mentioned about ignition system. Points or electronic? Sonic cleaning, if not using the proper chemicals does not always remove stale fuel residue. Even the smallest bit changes everything and all work will be for not. Many a carb issue has come from "clean" carbs. I believe most people use Berrymans for full soaking with very good results. There has been others who have the same set up as you are attempting and if all of the variables are done and done correctly you will be very close.
 
Sorry for not reading all the posts before responding. Seems Like I've done that before...:stupid:
 
I haven't forgotten about you guys I'm just having too much fun riding around on these bonus afternoons. For an update....She's running like a dream with the exception of High idle in second gear when gearing down. I put the APE filter pods on it and rebuilt the back brake tonight a few more rids and I want to start taking it apart for a complete makeover during the winter. It starts up right away no problem every day and it will even kick start with just a few tries. Keep looking in on me from time to time because I'm sure I will have lots of questions over the next couple of months and yes Lime thank you for the suggestion I will be checking points and ignition soon.
 
Let us know about your fuel dripping issue, if it is a cracked overflow tube, or in fact sticking float or float needle.
I think the needle spring side (the small metal spring loaded part was catching on the smallest little scratch on the float brass not allowing the float to rise all the way. I fine grit sanded it and It hasn't happened since. I'm getting quite the education and thoroughly enjoying the small successes.
 
You say high idle in second gear. You must mean just when you are revved up and you decelerate, the idle does not settle down. It should do this in any lower gear or neutral if it does it in one... hanging idle always means lean condition, your air screws probably aren't set quite right. Or the fuel screws need to back out maybe 1/16 turn more. a tiny bit makes a big difference on the fuel screws
 
Last edited:
I'm getting quite the education and thoroughly enjoying the small successes.


AWESOME! This is a really great attitude/outlook to have!
If you are not riding a brand new bike or something made within the last 8 years or 10 years, especially something that potentially could have had 40 years worth of neglected maintenance skipped on it, it is definitely important to understand how your machine works! And important to learn how you need to catch up on decades of skipped maintenance!
 
As to the points/condensors, if you don't know how old they are, it's best to just replace them. However, OEM parts are expensive and most just upgrade to a Dyna S ignition
 
If you decide to go with a pointless ignition be aware there two Dyna S ignitions for your bike - you must buy the right one, for either KD or ND. Take a look and see what you have.
 
Hey Everyone! I haven't forgotten about how helpful you all have been, I've been very busy on my bike rebuild over the winter and spring and good things are happening. Pictures coming soon.
 
Well I've finished my first bike build. She's done! Just a few things like fabing the battery box and mounting the ignition key under the tank. This winter I plan on replacing the pegs and brake lines.
IMG_0367.jpg
 
Back
Top