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Carb issue and gas coming from the breather....

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
Went by the motocyle shop today. Spoke with there Suzuki mech and was told problem is prolly due to improper valve clearence. Am gonna check and possibly reshim the top end. I may get lucky and have this thing running good.
 
my 1000 had a similar problem, what was wrong was the intake valve had crap on it and wasn't seating all the way, so i took the carbs off and spray a bunch of car clean down the intake port on to the valve, then pulled all the plugs and turn the motor over and sprayed more carb cleaner in it. that helped. i then put everthing back together changed the oil, run the bike and spray more carb cleaner into the carb while running it pretty hi and that cleaned it up the rest of the way.

-ryan
 
Wigglespank said:
Went by the motocyle shop today. Spoke with there Suzuki mech and was told problem is prolly due to improper valve clearence. Am gonna check and possibly reshim the top end. I may get lucky and have this thing running good.
Click to expand...
That would be cool if it's just a valve clearance adjustment.
Be sure the motor has sat overnight before checking clearances, or maybe you knew that? If you need help with the procedure, let us know.
If you get shims at a Suzuki/Kawasaki dealer, make sure they give you Suzuki shims (29.5mm). The Kawa's are smaller (29mm). I once wasted a 50 mile round trip to a dealer learning this lesson. At least I noticed the difference and did'nt install them.
 
Well I pulled the valve cover off today and check the clearence on cylinder 3.
Exhaust was fine, I was able to spin the top of the shim/lifter. The intake on the other hand seems to be too tight. I wasn't able to spin it or move it at all.
So it looks like that is the cause of all my problems. I'm going to get some shims for this thing and go thru all 8 valves. I also filled the cylinder with marvel mystery oil last night and let it sit overnight just to make sure I have covered all the bases with this thing but I'm confident the valve clearence is the culprit. Keith you mentioned something about a procedure, If you could dig it up I would greatly appreciate it. Ive order a manual ( I realize im a litte late on doing this considering all I've gone thru with this bike sofar) but better late then never. Anyway manual won't be here till next week. So I could really use the online help with this procedure.
Thanks again for all you guys time and help with this!!!!
 
KEITH KRAUSE said:
Wigglespank said:
Went by the motocyle shop today. Spoke with there Suzuki mech and was told problem is prolly due to improper valve clearence. Am gonna check and possibly reshim the top end. I may get lucky and have this thing running good.
Click to expand...
That would be cool if it's just a valve clearance adjustment.
Be sure the motor has sat overnight before checking clearances, or maybe you knew that? If you need help with the procedure, let us know.
If you get shims at a Suzuki/Kawasaki dealer, make sure they give you Suzuki shims (29.5mm). The Kawa's are smaller (29mm). I once wasted a 50 mile round trip to a dealer learning this lesson. At least I noticed the difference and did'nt install them.
Click to expand...


I could sure use help with the procedure...... :D
 
OK. The clearances can only be checked with the cam lobes pointing at 12:00, 9:00, or 3:00. As you follow this procedure, you will see which one's are checked at 12:00, 9:00 and which are at 3:00. Just follow this procedure and you will do the least amount of turning the crank. The motor must be stone cold. Here's how to adjust tappet clearances. This is from my factory Suzuki manual, '79 GS1000E. My clearance spec's are to be within 0.03-0.08mm (0.001-0.003"). Check for your 550's specific spec's. READ ALL THIS INFO FIRST BEFORE DOING THE JOB.
Turn your crank in the normal running direction with a 19mm wrench, (don't turn the smaller bolt at the very end of your crank). Turn the crank until EX cam #1 points to 9:00, at this time check the clearances of EX #1 and #2. Set the clearances to spec'.
Now turn the crank 180 degrees (1/2 rotation) until the IN cam #1 points to 12:00, at this time check the clearances of IN #1 and #2. Set the clearances to spec'.
Turn the crank another 180 degrees until the EX cam #4 points to 3:00, at this time check the clearances of EX #3 and #4. Set the clearances.
Turn the crank another 180 degrees until the IN cam #4 points to 12:00, at this time check the clearances of IN #3 and #4. Set the clearances. I always go through the whole thing again and double check my clearances.
You'll need the tappet depressor tool to push down the tappets.
You first turn the tappet until its notch faces you. Then you push down the tappet with the tool. Pick out and change the shim. Put a light coat of oil on the "new" shim before installing. Be sure to set the tool correctly. It's a bit difficult to explain without a picture.
There are thickness #'s on the shims. If they are installed right (with the #'s facing down) the number won't get worn off. If they are worn off, you have to measure for yourself. The shims graduate in thicknesses such as 2.50, 2.55, 2.60... They also sell shims that are "fat". These have an "X" after the #. A 2.50X shim will actually be 2.52 or 2.53mm? This can help you make better adjustments as you'll learn later. You may be lucky and be able to swap existing shims around and save yourself some $. It's good to write down what size shims are in the bike so the next time you'll have an idea of what you can swap and what you may have to buy. Some shops will trade and not charge you.
Before actually doing the job and making changes, you may want to take each shim out an check/write down it's size so you know what you've got and what can be swapped?
A tip I've learned at GSR is put a very light coat of bearing grease on the new cover gasket and it will come off much easier the next time and this also helps the gasket seal better.
My last note on this is in regards to the "12:00, 9:00, 3:00" cam lobe positions. These are not TRUE /EXACT positions. If I could show you the pictures you would easily see what I mean. (Maybe someone here can help with a pic'?) The motor slants slightly forward, so the top of the head is not actually level. The idea ( in regards to the 9:00 and 3:00 positions) is to make the very tip of the cam lobe PARALLEL with the slight slant of the head. In regards to the 12:00 position, the very tip of the cam lobe is actually at a 90 degree angle from the top of the "slanted" head. I hope this is'nt too confusing.
Too simply say 12:00, 9;00, etc, is pretty darn close however.
Hope this helps. I'm a very slow 1 finger typist so this took me a while.
Let me know if you need more help.
 
Thanks very much for the info KEITH !!!.
By the way were can I find this "tool" for the shims?
Or might it be something I already have......
 
Wigglespank said:
Thanks very much for the info KEITH !!!.
By the way were can I find this "tool" for the shims?
Or might it be something I already have......
Click to expand...
It looks like the letter "U" with a handle attached. The "U" part fits under the cam and you place the groove of the tool on the edge of the tappet and press down.
I know the Suzuki dealer sells them but they're expensive.
This was brought up a while back and several members found where you could buy the tool for around $30?
Post a topic for the tool and I'll bet you'll get help. I suppose you could post it in the "Technical Section". I believe it's correct name is a Tappet depressor tool.
 
Whelp the bike is all better!!!!!!

I pulled the old shim out and swapped it for a smaller one. After playing with the figures and my slide caliper I figure my intake was open when cold at by about 2thousandths of an inch. When hot it would be open even further which
would explain the problems im having. When I get the bike back together Ill re-sync the carbs again and put some fresh plugs in. Thanks soo much KEITH
and First for all your help..... I really appreciate it.

Thanks again,
Mike
 
You're welcome! Anytime. :) Hope it runs good.
Don't forget to change the oil.
 
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