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Carb issues on 83 GS1100E

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Well, I knew this wasn't going to be easy. Took the carbs off my GS that's been sitting for a few years, rebuilt the "bottom" end of them, in other words, did not touch the top of the carbs, where the diaphram sits and all that other stuff! Actually, they weren't all that dirty, I've clean alot worse. Put them back together and on the bike, and it will just not run worth a darn. Only will start with the choke on, and I get VERY little throttle response, will only rev up to about 4K, will not idle. It's not a fuel, petcock issue. I took off the tank and did the ol' home made funnel/fuel line trick this evening, same results as when I had the tank on. It's definitely in the carbs. Any ideas? I know the real "answer" may be to try another set of carbs, or have these rebuilt by a pro, but I figured I would try my hand at it. Seemed to go back together pretty easily, and like I said, wasn't really that dirty. Could it even be an electrical issue? It's not backfiring or anything else, just won't get up any RPMS??? Thanks for any and all opinions!!!!:confused:
 
Are your slides moving freely? If not you won't get out of the pilot circuit. Check your diaphragms for pin holes or tears. Under the very top cap is the diaphragm which raises the jet needle out of the needle jet and starts to rise after 1/8 throttle which allows gas to flow through your main jet.
 
Would just one bad diaphram cause this, or would it have to be several?
 
I should of read your post more closely. So your not holding an idle so you still might have blocked passages in your carbs. Did you check compression?
 
Compression is fine, it's firing on all cylinders, no smoke, knocks or anything else "suspicious". Will only run with the choke on, will not idle. How important is the air filter? I reconnected the stock air box, but there is no filter and no cap, just thought I'd throw that out there.........I'll probably "borrow" another working set of carbs from another bike and see what happens........
 
A cheap mod for these bikes was to jump the main jet up a few notches and run without the air box lid, but that's with an air filter. These bikes hate to run without an airbox with stock jetting. I would guess that with no filter and lid this would cause the bike to lean out. Did you blow all the small passages out with carb cleaner? It is recommended to dip the carbs and run a wire through them.
 
By the way, nice car. My first love was a 69 Nova SS 396. Then I had a 78 Z28 T-top 400 small block 400 turbo trans hurst shifter kit edelbrock cam and intake and lost the quadrojunk for a edelbrock carb. Tied the frame(learned after 76 Nova I had to climb out the windows. Had to sell it after I drove it to CA because of tough smog laws.
 
chef1366 said:
A cheap mod for these bikes was to jump the main jet up a few notches and run without the air box lid, but that's with an air filter. These bikes hate to run without an airbox with stock jetting. I would guess that with no filter and lid this would cause the bike to lean out. Did you blow all the small passages out with carb cleaner? It is recommended to dip the carbs and run a wire through them.
Click to expand...

I did blow out all of the passages, but did not dip them, they didn't appear to be that bad. I may have missed something though. I'm going to try another set of carbs that I know are good, and if that works, I'll concentrate on getting these carbs rebuilt CORRECTLY! What can I say, I'm just your average, shadetree mechanic!!!!!
 
I would try putting your air filter back on and closing up the air box before switching carbs. As Chef said, you are probably running pretty lean without a filter or lid.

I have a 1981 GS1100E and have a couple of friends with 83 models. These engines are identical except that the 83s have one piece cranks. If you are interested in performance, I would highly suggest getting rid of the stock airbox and placing individual filters on each carb (K&N type). When you do this, you will have to increase your jet size, but you will feel an incredible difference in power. Of course, you pay some price in fuel mileage. If your stock carbs, do end up needing to be rebuilt, you should really consider buying a set of Mikuni VM33 smooth bores. These are no longer manufactured but you should be able to find a used set easily. The performance the smoothbores give you on the top end is incredible. I have had a set on my bike for over 10 years. The smooth bores do require a push/pull throttle, so you would have to change out your hand throttle.
 
chef1366 said:
I'm a backyard mechanic from Ohio.
Click to expand...

I'm a backyard mechanic from Ohio (Canton), who relocated to Texas in 1989!!!! Best thing I've even done in my life, I hate the cold and snow! Then again, these 105 degree temps are a little annoying too, especially outside rebuilding carbs and sweating like a pig!!! Seriously, could this "open" airbox really cause the bike to not go up above 4K at all, and have NO throttle response? I mean, it is an easy check I guess, I can just cover the box opening up with a sock of something and see what happens, I just can't imagine it making all that much difference? Just in case your wondering, I have the big airbox that attaches to the backside of the carbs, but the connecting "box" that actually houses the air filter is completely gone! Thanks for the help guys!!!!
 
Not having the "lid" on the air-box is almost certainly the problem. My 1100E nor will either of my 750s' run with air box lid missing (before I switched to pods). Try and make a "cap" to fit over the lid-hole and whole be able to feel the vacuum as your homemade cap is placed over the hole. I would say that your carbs are fine and that your fix is an easy one. Get a filter and seal that box.
 
dtkid said:
Not having the "lid" on the air-box is almost certainly the problem. My 1100E nor will either of my 750s' run with air box lid missing (before I switched to pods). Try and make a "cap" to fit over the lid-hole and whole be able to feel the vacuum as your homemade cap is placed over the hole. I would say that your carbs are fine and that your fix is an easy one. Get a filter and seal that box.
Click to expand...

So temporarily, for testing purposes, would it be best to completely block off the hole, or just severely restrict it with like I said, a rag or sock or something?????
 
I was born in Canton at Timken Mercy near the Pro Football Hall of Shame. Few people know that when it isn't Hall of fame time it's where people go to buy drugs and such. Grew up in Greentown and Canal Fulton. I don't regret the migration either. I live in the dessert now where people wear coats when it's sixty degrees outside. Makes me chuckle. Small world. I find alot of relocated people here from Ohio and Pennsylvania..
 
If you hate taking off the carbs as much as I did go with the K&N pods and a Dynojet stage 1&3 kit. We'll help you get it dialed in. If wallets bare I saw an airbox on Fleabay recently. I've also seen where you can rig a filter on the carb section airbox with a hose and filter. To answer your question you might get results with the sock but just to check it, you can't run it like that. I not sure if you can mock a filter and airbox with a sock.
 
Small world, my siblings were all born at Timken Mercy, but I was actually born at Aultman! My dad worked for and retired from Timken Roller Bearing, worked their for 35 years, and my older brother still works there to this day! Did you graduate from Timken or McKinley, or one of the other local county schools? I graduated from Timken in 1982! I know what you mean about parts of the city, I grew up on the NW side, over by Lehman middle school, and the last couple times I've been back, it's like a friggin' demilitarized zone! :shock:

I'll try to rig something up tonight and see what happens, I have been searching on eBay for a box and haven't seen on in the last week or so! Thanks again!
 
No luck. Plugged up the air box, now it won't even start. Looks like I'll be doing some carb swapping! Thanks for the advice anyway!!!!
 
I graduated from Jackson High school in 86. Long story. Sorry you couldn't get it. These carbs don't wear out so it's probably just a cleaning issue.
 
Don't give up yet. (I had to quit responding yesterday cause my computer crashed).

You can't "plug" the air-box or you won't get any air. What I meant to say was to make a rigid lid that won't compromise any of the inside of the air-box.

Let me know what type of air-box you have (does it have an filter box that attaches to it)? I have an air-box from an 83' GS1100G. I'll let you have it cheap if it will work....but when you look at yours be sure to check that there was or was not an air-filter box attached. Describe yours to me and I'll see if I can match it up with one of mine.

I know the 80' and 81' had a separate air-filter box that attached to the back of the air box....but I'm not sure about the 83'. I do however have an 83' air box. I just don't remember what it looks like.

Note: I have never seen carbs that are so bad that they can't be repaired!!! Unless somebody poured epoxy into the air ports or smashed it with a sledge! I absolutely believe you have a very simple fix. Be patient and let me know about the physical dynamics of yours. I'm goin to my shop right now to check mine and I'll be back at the computer later on this afternoon.
 
Yes, mine has a separate box that connects to the main box, which connects to the carbs. I'm missing the small box that actually contains the air filter! What I did was cover the hole with some duck tape, and the bike would not start at all, didn't even try to start. Then I poked a few holes in it, and still nothing. I'm to the point now where I'm about ready to just pull them over and go through them again, or better yet, slap on a set that I KNOW are good, and see what happens. I'm 95% sure it's just a carb issue, there are no telltale signs pointing towards anything else!!!!
 
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