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Carb Questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
chef1366 said:
I did not shim the needles just rebuilt the carbs with new o-rings, set the floats properly and got a new petcock. To shim the needles you would just add tiny washers to the underside of the top of the needle just above the spring? The ceramic is snow white on the plug during a full throttle chop. Can you remove the main jets without removing the carbs? Seems like you could.
Click to expand...
Yes, you can remove the mains by taking off the float bowls if you like.
As for your jet needles, you said yesterday the plug colors were good up to 3/4 throttle position. If the color is good at this position, the jet needles are set.
It sounds like there's some uncertainty if these needles are stock.
If your only mod's are that pipe and a K&N replacement filter then your bike SHOULD be running lean on the stock needle circuit, at least some. But if your 1/4 to 3/4 reads say the plugs are burning right, then leave it be. Maybe the needle jets have been changed by a PO or who knows?
Just to answer your shimming question, a jetting spacer used to raise jet needles, is placed directly under the jet needle e-clip. The e-clip attaches to the needle and there should be a thicker plastic spacer above the e-clip and a thinner plastic spacer below the clip. The two plastic spacers are always re-installed in same order regardless of jet needle type.
If a full throttle chop shows a snow white insulator, and you're SURE the float levels are set to factory recommendations and the carbs are operating correctly, I might try two full sizes up (10) on the mains at this point. It really is hard to guess. You just have to try and re-test. That's jetting. Two full sizes up from 117.5 (?) might be too rich, but snow white plugs generally suggest one full size up may not be enough.
Some shops will be cool and let you return/swap jets if you return them in new condition.
 
chef1366 said:
I did not shim the needles just rebuilt the carbs with new o-rings, set the floats properly and got a new petcock. To shim the needles you would just add tiny washers to the underside of the top of the needle just above the spring? The ceramic is snow white on the plug during a full throttle chop. Can you remove the main jets without removing the carbs? Seems like you could.
Click to expand...

It's a lot easier to get a DJ kit and install some pods. It makes it a lot easier to get them on and off. I live in Bakersfield too and it took me about 12 times on and off with the carbs to finally get them right and being the glutton for punishment that I am i just got through putting some 36 mm carbs off of a 1990 GSXR on and went through the same thing again. Sure runs a lot better than the stock 34's, anyway, the pods make it a lot easier to change things around in the carbs.

Jgordon

1983 GS1168 W/ 1150 head
 
Is there a way to switch out diaphragms? I'm going to either get stock slides(not drilled) or switch the diaphragms if possible. I think Keith was right about throttle response being too quick with a stock air box. I'm also going to get .5 mm shims and raise the needle. I read that one shim is like 1/2 notch on an adjustable needle. Should I try one full notch at first(2 shims) or work my way up from from 1/2 notch(1 shim)?
 
You're confusing me. You said the plugs were burning a good color at 1/4 to 3/4 throttle. If this is true, why would you want to adjust the jet needles?
You said the full throttle test was giving lean reads. Seems you only need to get the main jet right now.
A typical jetting spacer is approx' .023"
This would raise the jet needle about 1/2 a position.
 
Sorry Keith, just getting anal with my bike. I just want perfect throttle response and probably won't get it with the drilled slides. It is very good and I should be happy with it . I'm ordering 122.5 jets from Dennis Kirk. I've ridden all over So Cal. Are there any scheduled GS get togethers in the area?
 
I got it! I went back to the stock non-drilled slides, removed air box lid, 47.5 pilot jet, 170 air jet, 135 main jet, K&N air filter and lots of @#$%^&*. Runs great. Can hardly keep the front tire on the ground into third gear. Since I am a glutten for punishment I'm going to shop around for pods since I do have a Factory jet kit. Turns out I met a fellow GSer on this site that lives right down the street from me. He was very helpful with a large assortment of main jets and good advice. Thanks jgordon!!
Thank you Keith Krause for being helpful and patient.
VROOOOOOOOOOOOOOM!!!!!
 
Glad you got it running good. Taking off the lid will definitely require those larger mains.
Jet needles would have to be raised too but you don't mention what you did for them. Let us know because it may help others who check in here.
Thanks for letting us know we helped. :)
 
Sorry, forgot to mention I raised the needles with two shims which is equivalent to one notch.
 
Just an update. Took the good diaphragms with the drilled slides and filled the holes with JB Weld and drilled them back to stock. Running a little rich with the 135 mains and switched them with 130s. The needle was also a little rich with two shims so I dropped it to one shim. I swear I'm done. (Had my fingers crossed)
 
Pods

Pods

Well ga-zillion one. Bought a DynoJet jet kit, K&N pods and K&N crankcase breather. Had the cams degreed in. Exhaust, was 115 degrees now 109. Intake, was 104 degrees now 110. Dyno needle set at fifth down, dyno main jet 132, redrilled the slides, kept stock slide springs and oiled a sticky advance. Everything else I kept the same. I have great throttle response, more power across the board. Plugs are finally tan. I finally unleashed the beast. But now my wife won't talk to me. What are you gona do?
 
Now you need a kit for the wife!
Something like...a dozen roses, nice dinner out and a movie. After that, you're on your own. LOL.

PS: Glad the bike's running good. That cam timing certainly helped. 115 is too much. Makes carb tuning very difficult, among other negative things.
106 to 107 is a good compromise between top end HP and low/mid-range power/torque, but your 109/110 is a great improvement over what you had. Your 109/110 favors top end HP. Have fun.
 
Cams

Cams

chef1366 said:
Well ga-zillion one. Bought a DynoJet jet kit, K&N pods and K&N crankcase breather. Had the cams degreed in. Exhaust, was 115 degrees now 109. Intake, was 104 degrees now 110. Dyno needle set at fifth down, dyno main jet 132, redrilled the slides, kept stock slide springs and oiled a sticky advance. Everything else I kept the same. I have great throttle response, more power across the board. Plugs are finally tan. I finally unleashed the beast. But now my wife won't talk to me. What are you gona do?
Click to expand...
Hey Chef, Your Ex was at 104.5 and the In was at 115.5
 
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