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Carb rebuild checklist and tips?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Pendulum
  • Start date Start date
P

Pendulum

Guest
Ok, I'm finally going to tear my carbs apart tonight and (hopefully) get this thing running properly. Or at least closer.

I have the following:

various screwdrivers
Cycle O Rings o ring kit
4x rebuild kits from Z1 (mainly for gaskets, or in case I lose or break something)
Berrymans carb dip
spray carb cleaner
feeler gauges for bench sync
I plan on building a carb sync tool from a yard stick and tubing.

Am I missing anything? I've gone over a ton of info, and I think I've got everything but is there anything that's known to break/need replacement, any special tools, etc? It's a '79 550 with the VM22s.

Thanks in advance! Once I get it running properly I'll be sure to post some pics and videos.
 
Missing from your list is (a) adult beverages (b) LOTS of patience (c) more adult beverages....
 
Cycleorings does not sell intake boot O-rings for the early 550's so you will need some of those. And when you pull the carbs down make sure to check the carb bodies for broken fuel screw tips.
 
Skip the "adult beverages" until AFTER you are done. :rolleyes:

You should have re-directed the money you spent on the carb kits and gotten a proper sync tool, instead. Darn near the same amount of money. :o

No need for feeler gauges for bench sync. Just use a light on the other side of the carbs and look at the size of the opening under the slides.
I know this picture is of the CV carbs, but you can still get an idea of what you are looking for:
IMG_3451.jpg


.
 
Hi,

Check out the link to Mr. Nessism's carb rebuild tutorial in his signature file. It's for CV carbs but most of that experience will apply to your VM carbs. It's a very thorough guide.

I would suggest NOT using any metal parts from those "carb rebuild kits". They generally have inferior parts and can cause problems that will be hard to diagnose. If you have to replace any internal (metal) carb parts (float valves, seats, jets, etc), then use OEM parts. They will work correctly.

Please show us pictures of the manometer that you build and let us know how it works. Maybe you can write up a "build your own" guide to share?


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
wisgolfer59 said:
Missing from your list is (a) adult beverages (b) LOTS of patience (c) more adult beverages....
Click to expand...

I'm in my early 20s, and single. I don't think there's ever a time when adult beverages of the malted hoppy variety are missing ;)

Nessism said:
Cycleorings does not sell intake boot O-rings for the early 550's so you will need some of those. And when you pull the carbs down make sure to check the carb bodies for broken fuel screw tips.
Click to expand...

Robert from Cycleorings was a huge help in pointing me in the right direction, and I picked up some intake boot rings about the same time I ordered his carb o rings. Thanks for the reminded though, I forgot that I need to do the intake boots while I've got everything apart.

Steve said:
Skip the "adult beverages" until AFTER you are done. :rolleyes:

You should have re-directed the money you spent on the carb kits and gotten a proper sync tool, instead. Darn near the same amount of money. :o

No need for feeler gauges for bench sync. Just use a light on the other side of the carbs and look at the size of the opening under the slides.
I know this picture is of the CV carbs, but you can still get an idea of what you are looking for:
IMG_3451.jpg


.
Click to expand...

That method looks a lot easier than fooling around with guitar string or feeler gauges. Thanks.

BassCliff said:
Hi,

Check out the link to Mr. Nessism's carb rebuild tutorial in his signature file. It's for CV carbs but most of that experience will apply to your VM carbs. It's a very thorough guide.

I would suggest NOT using any metal parts from those "carb rebuild kits". They generally have inferior parts and can cause problems that will be hard to diagnose. If you have to replace any internal (metal) carb parts (float valves, seats, jets, etc), then use OEM parts. They will work correctly.

Please show us pictures of the manometer that you build and let us know how it works. Maybe you can write up a "build your own" guide to share?


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
Click to expand...

I've got just about everything that I think is useful from you and Nessism bookmarked at home :) Thanks to both of you for all the hard work and info!

I'll be sure to snap some pics and do a write-up of the homebrew manometer. I've got someone elses tutorial bookmarked on my laptop at home, which will be my basis for mine.

The metal stuff from the carb kits is only going to be used if something breaks, and it'll only be temporary until the proper OEM stuff comes in the mail. I'm a pretty firm believer in OEM only stuff when it comes to precision parts or engine internals, unless it's a proven aftermarket component.

Thanks guys!
 
You'll want a copy of Mr. Musser's VM carb rebuild guide from BassCliff's site. If you have a color printer it makes it a lot easier to tell what parts are what. I find the carb rebuild guides a lot easier to follow if I have them printed out vs. trying to find pics and info in a pdf file.
You are also missing a bit of hi-temp synthetic grease and things to poke into the nooks and crannies of VM carbs.
 
1.) Air compressor
2.) Impact driver

I use a manual Non-electric impact tool to break the carb-rail bolts loose.
($15 at home depot or lowes)

Air compressor is for blowing all the passages clean in the carbs.
 
koolaid_kid said:
You'll want a copy of Mr. Musser's VM carb rebuild guide from BassCliff's site. If you have a color printer it makes it a lot easier to tell what parts are what. I find the carb rebuild guides a lot easier to follow if I have them printed out vs. trying to find pics and info in a pdf file.
You are also missing a bit of hi-temp synthetic grease and things to poke into the nooks and crannies of VM carbs.
Click to expand...

Would a set of picks/awls work for poking around? I'll pick up some hi-temp grease in the next day or 2.

1_v8_merc said:
1.) Air compressor
2.) Impact driver

I use a manual Non-electric impact tool to break the carb-rail bolts loose.
($15 at home depot or lowes)

Air compressor is for blowing all the passages clean in the carbs.
Click to expand...

hmm... Impact driver is an easy solution. I guess I can bring the carbs to work to blow everything out. I'm assuming I'd dip them, rinse them, blow out what I can at home, then bring them to work and finish up w/ the compressor?

Thanks again everyone.
 
So after reading some of the other threads around here, I think I'll hold off on the carb rebuild another week... So I can wait for a DJ Stage 3 to come in the mail :)

I've been wanting to do pods and/or a custom 4-1 exhaust, so why not just do the carbs once?
 
Pendulum said:
I guess I can bring the carbs to work to blow everything out. I'm assuming I'd dip them, rinse them, blow out what I can at home, then bring them to work and finish up w/ the compressor?
Click to expand...
That might work, but only if you can keep the carbs wet before blowing them out with the compressed air. :-k

Basically, the dip will either disolve or soften the deposits in all the little passages inside the carbs. Rinsing with hot water will help soften the remaining deposits. Spraying with a bit of carb cleaner spray will flush out what remains, then the compressed air will blow out what little might remain, and dry everything out. By letting the carbs dry out before that blast of compressed air, the deposits will dry out and harden into place (again).
shrug2.gif


.
 
You might want to spray some pb blaster (or penetrating spray of your choice) into the pilot jet holes and some other jets as necessary and let it set for a day or so. Also, take the time to look at all of your jets and needles, etc. to make sure that they are proper. You really never know what the PO did before you. Also, let the carbs set for a couple of days. I had to do my carbs more than once to get all the crap out of them.
 
I thought I read some guys saying not to use compressed air in carb passages...due to potential for cracking bodies? Common sense would keep the air pressure fairly low??? I used only Walmart carb cleaner spray can pressure when I did mine and had positive results. But, the urge to use air was ever present......
 
I used several cans of canned air due to my compressor being down... Worked pretty good from what I could tell... just keep the can upright and spray in bursts.


~GSJohnny
 
Canned air can work, but you need to be careful not to tilt the can sideways, because it will begin to shoot frost out, instead of air.
The can will get extremely cold too.
(read the warning labels on the back, it should explain)

I've never heard of compressed air cracking Carbs....
(not to say it can't happen...I'm sure it could with a large commercial setup,haha)
I just have a cheapy 1.5hp/26gal compressor, fill it to maybe 20-40PSI
 
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