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Carb Rebuild Help Needed - Matching Carbs

Mr.humbucker

Mr.humbucker

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
I have a set of BS32 Carbs for a GS550 1982 that I am attempting to reserect. On on the post for the float was snapped off and for another the air screw lived up to it's name and is finished.

As such I've come across a second partial set of what I believe to be BS32's. Everything is the same on the body of the carbs that I've picked up as the original set. However the brass tube that is contained within the float bowl has a different diameter opening. On the orignial set the tip of the tube is quite small, a little larger than a darning needle. On the second set of carbs (2 of which I hope to use to replace the others that are no longer serviceable) the opening of the tip of this brass tube is considerably larger than the original set. The main jet is different too. Can anyone help me with the description I've given to tell me if the second set is in fact BS32mm carbs, and if so whether the difference in the brass tube opening in the float bowl area will make much if any differnce in the operation of the carbs once cleaned, assembled and reinstalled.
Thanks!
 
The brass tube is the choke fuel feed. There are differences, but they don't matter at all when the choke is not on. It may be a little richer or leaner while the choke is on, but that's not really all that important. You can also remove and replace the tube with the one off the other carb if you want to.

Use the corect jets for the bike in the new carbs.

Besides being BS32, is the spacing the same betwen carbs? BS32s for an 850 will be different than those for a 550 or 650..
 
I have seen some of the brass tubes that were not replaceable. They had split due to freezing with moisture in them. My attempts to solder the split failed repeatedly. The solution? Find a thin wall piece of plastic tubing that is impervious to fuel and the right ID and cut it to the right length and slip it over the tube. This will work as long as there are not factory holes in the tube.
 
Float Post Repair
http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/index.cfm Microscopic Laser Float Post Repair:​
Sometimes a float post will break off. We have excessive experience in repairing float posts. In the early days we used epoxies. Then we used a marine epoxy, then we cross drilled, roll pinned and epoxied. But in the end after consulting epoxy engineers they all shared that all epoxies would break down in a maximum of two years in a petroleum environment as epoxy is petroleum based.
Then we found out about aluminum laser welding. These pictures will speak for themselves. Basically we clean the mating surfaces and weld them back together. As long as you have the broken post we can fix it. Sometimes the post is broken at the float pivot pin hole and the little top half is gone. In this case we can build up the head of the post, grind it back to shape, and drill it to spec for a complete original repair.
Pricing ranges from 80-120$ per repair on average. Send us your carb and your broken part (dont forget to send the pivot pin, and float for spacing) to the address on the contact us page. And we will have it turned around and back for you in about two weeks. Email us if you have any questions. Additional billing to your card on file may be processed based on time spent on your job. Things that add time are; removal of prior evicences of repair, build up of areas like pivot pin hole, and then drilling, and ground areas.​
We can also fix cracks in float bowls and other areas that need to be built up.​
Click any picture below for a larger view​
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I do appreciate the work & equipment involved in your repair process. I would think that, in most cases, you could buy a replacement used carb body for much less then the $80-$120 charge. Many BS32, 34's out there still. Now if you had a unique situation with a rare carb, then this type of service could save a lot of time and expense.
 
Good to know that this unique service/skill set is out there. I have the replacement carbs for this task, I only have to switch out the butterfly valve stems (if that's what you call them) on the replacements as they appear to have come off of a larger (750 or 850) and are wider. Many thanks to the contributor that pointed that out to me in an earlier response.

I will re-use the jets from the original set except for the needle valves as the one was buggered up. I've got new O rings for the project and have ultrasonically cleaned everything! Best toy I've bought myself in a while!

Thanks for your input!
 
Tkent02 you're a life saver ... great advise and info! I will try removing the tube on one of my "throw aways" and see how it goes!

M
 
If you are going to remove the choke tube from a junk carb ? Drill a hole next to the tube, releases some of the pressure making it easier to remove
 
Thanks again to all for the advice, can anyone tell me what the significance of the number stamped on the brass butterfly? Valve is?
 
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