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kennethleemiller
Guest
hikermikem;1576601}I may have missed it in one of your earlier posts said:
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Required reading for all forum users!!!
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kennethleemiller
Guest
Thank you.. I remember reading that #4 when I signed on here..
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7981GS
Guest
They never work with pod filters...
I MUST be doing something wrong.
Daniel
Do Rapidray and Chef know about this? Someone should tell them also!
I MUST be doing something wrong.
Daniel
Do Rapidray and Chef know about this? Someone should tell them also!
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BassCliff
Guest
Hi Daniel,
Nope. You've just got "the touch". You are definitely a "GS Whisperer". One day I hope this grasshopper will be able to snatch the shim from your hand.
All the best to you and yours,
Cliff
They never work with pod filters...
I MUST be doing something wrong.
Nope. You've just got "the touch". You are definitely a "GS Whisperer". One day I hope this grasshopper will be able to snatch the shim from your hand.
All the best to you and yours,
Cliff
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Guest
Guest
Screw turned in (CW) leans it out.
Screw turned out (CCW) richens up.
2.5 turns out should be good to start.Screw turned out (CCW) richens up.
You will need to get the engine idling smoothly, mixture screws set correctly (highest RPM method), and have absolutely no vacuum leaks BEFORE you can do a worthwhile vacuum sync.
Inspect your stator connections closely - this is a problem area & the connectors are most likely burnt. Do all the maintenance stuff described in the stator papers (run additional grounds, RR check, clean all connections...) first before you replace the stator.
However, members here seem to use aftermarket stators from Rick's.
Good luck - there's no quick fixes with these old bikes. Just methodical testing & repair.
kennethleemiller said....
"I've been trying to avoid using the choke, just because I don't want to just dump a ton of gas into to chambers, it seems like I've had better luck just starting it with no choke"
Cold, my 650 would show no interest in coming to life without full "choke"- It would crank itself out. But with full "choke", it starts instantly, even after two weeks of being ignored. This enrichment system ain't going to "just dump a ton of gas into chambers"- the system supplies a shot of air/fuel mixture to compensate for the designed lean idle carb circuit.
"I've been trying to avoid using the choke, just because I don't want to just dump a ton of gas into to chambers, it seems like I've had better luck just starting it with no choke"
Cold, my 650 would show no interest in coming to life without full "choke"- It would crank itself out. But with full "choke", it starts instantly, even after two weeks of being ignored. This enrichment system ain't going to "just dump a ton of gas into chambers"- the system supplies a shot of air/fuel mixture to compensate for the designed lean idle carb circuit.
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kennethleemiller
Guest
Second attempt, choke activated this time and rags in place... Fired right up beautifully (thanks Tom), went up to 5k, then gradually came back down to a little over 1500.. Stayed there for about a minute, and then fizzled.. subsequent attempts yield a slow start and inability to sustain itself... I'll try again before I go to bed just to see if it acts the same as when I first started..
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7981GS
Guest
This bike, had been sitting for over ten years.
Got it to run with no exhaust the night before so...
I installed a set of pipes and a tiny funnel filled with gas after the carbs were filled and,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TcMWTHTkts4
Got it to run with no exhaust the night before so...
I installed a set of pipes and a tiny funnel filled with gas after the carbs were filled and,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TcMWTHTkts4
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kennethleemiller
Guest
Not much better on the bed time try... guess there's always tomorrow...
Oh and 7981.. I appreciate the sarcasm.. if anything I take it as encouragement.. you seem to be quite an accomplished technician and professor of these motorcycles, although I think you'll agree, the 650's have considerably less elbow room under the tank than the 1100's...
Oh and 7981.. I appreciate the sarcasm.. if anything I take it as encouragement.. you seem to be quite an accomplished technician and professor of these motorcycles, although I think you'll agree, the 650's have considerably less elbow room under the tank than the 1100's...
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7981GS
Guest
There are plenty of knowledgeable GSer's in the state of Texas.
Perhaps one or two of them are near you? (I know, a VERY BIG State.)
How about posting what city you are in/near?
Daniel
Perhaps one or two of them are near you? (I know, a VERY BIG State.)
How about posting what city you are in/near?
Daniel
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kennethleemiller
Guest
Daniel,
I live in an outer lying suburb of Houston.. Actually about an hour out of the city, but I work in Houston during the week..
Ken
I live in an outer lying suburb of Houston.. Actually about an hour out of the city, but I work in Houston during the week..
Ken
With choke applied, starting up and racing to 4k is normal (till you feather the choke). What happens if you leave the choke partially activated- does it still die after a minute? Normal for mine is to drive off with 1/4 choke and lose all choke in 2 minutes.
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kennethleemiller
Guest
I didn't try feathering the choke until the second try, which, by then it was too late... I probably could have kept it going by feathering the throttle, but I wanted to see how long it would stay alive with assistance from me.. I'll try starting it today with half choke, or perhaps full choke and and then half after it starts up..
The "choke" system neither wants nor needs ANY throttle input-try just feathering the choke to see if you can keep it at a fast (but unstable ) idle .
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kennethleemiller
Guest
Noted.. will do..
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kennethleemiller
Guest
Stayed at the girlfriend's place last night, didn't get to work on the bike..
But in the meantime I'd like to toss around a few ideas I have, and get some input, food-for-thought, whatever..
The new stator should be in today, I'll install that this afternoon... HOPEFULLY that will be the end of my charging system problems.. I absolutely HATE HATE HATE troubleshooting electrical problem on vehicles..
At some point, probably sooner rather than later, it's going to need a valve job, and I was just wondering if anyone knows where to get replacement springs, guides, seals, etc.. Does Suzuki still provide internals for these?? I'm hoping the valves themselves are still reusable, which brings around another question: if I want to clean the valves and reuse them can I soak them Barrymans overnight? Do the valves have some kind of sealant or coating that's going to dissolve in the dip, rendering them useless? Is there a good way of checking seat angles and wear? The bike has 26,xxx mi. on it, is there anything I should be looking for as far as wear, etc??
I'm considering, while the head is off and disassembled, having it milled, and possibly ported (probably not ported).. But I'm also considering having the outer surfaces black anodized.. Does anyone know anything about anodizing?? Is it possible to only anodize certain surfaces, retaining the internal and mounting surface's integrity?? And while I'm on the subject, I actually want to anodize the cylinder jugs and engine casings too... (I've got this vision of a black engine with polished outer covers)..
The top cover on my engine is the 16 bolt, aka leaky cover, and there's evidence (quite unattractive evidence, I might add) of someone at some point trying to remedy the leakiness from the outside.. Is there a good way for me to make a positive seal from the inside??
Is there anything I should know about cams, timing chain, chain tensioner, etc.?? And while I'm thinking of the tensioner- It appears that I need to remove the starter cover plate, in order to route the stator cables up to the r/r, however one of the cover plate screws is directly underneath the chain tension adjustment.. If I need to remove the tensioner to get to the screw Is there a gasket there that I need to replace? And will removing the tensioner mess up the timing when I go to reinstall it? Will the chain come off the teeth on the crank shaft when I remove the tension??
Just some things I've been thinking about, if anyone has ideas, personal experiences, criticism, whatever.. This is the perfect time to tell I'm completely off my rocker.. I'm just looking for any kind of input..
Thanks,
Ken
But in the meantime I'd like to toss around a few ideas I have, and get some input, food-for-thought, whatever..
The new stator should be in today, I'll install that this afternoon... HOPEFULLY that will be the end of my charging system problems.. I absolutely HATE HATE HATE troubleshooting electrical problem on vehicles..
At some point, probably sooner rather than later, it's going to need a valve job, and I was just wondering if anyone knows where to get replacement springs, guides, seals, etc.. Does Suzuki still provide internals for these?? I'm hoping the valves themselves are still reusable, which brings around another question: if I want to clean the valves and reuse them can I soak them Barrymans overnight? Do the valves have some kind of sealant or coating that's going to dissolve in the dip, rendering them useless? Is there a good way of checking seat angles and wear? The bike has 26,xxx mi. on it, is there anything I should be looking for as far as wear, etc??
I'm considering, while the head is off and disassembled, having it milled, and possibly ported (probably not ported).. But I'm also considering having the outer surfaces black anodized.. Does anyone know anything about anodizing?? Is it possible to only anodize certain surfaces, retaining the internal and mounting surface's integrity?? And while I'm on the subject, I actually want to anodize the cylinder jugs and engine casings too... (I've got this vision of a black engine with polished outer covers)..
The top cover on my engine is the 16 bolt, aka leaky cover, and there's evidence (quite unattractive evidence, I might add) of someone at some point trying to remedy the leakiness from the outside.. Is there a good way for me to make a positive seal from the inside??
Is there anything I should know about cams, timing chain, chain tensioner, etc.?? And while I'm thinking of the tensioner- It appears that I need to remove the starter cover plate, in order to route the stator cables up to the r/r, however one of the cover plate screws is directly underneath the chain tension adjustment.. If I need to remove the tensioner to get to the screw Is there a gasket there that I need to replace? And will removing the tensioner mess up the timing when I go to reinstall it? Will the chain come off the teeth on the crank shaft when I remove the tension??
Just some things I've been thinking about, if anyone has ideas, personal experiences, criticism, whatever.. This is the perfect time to tell I'm completely off my rocker.. I'm just looking for any kind of input..
Thanks,
Ken
You need to take a deep breath and RELAX! It's a project that requires you to just keep plugging at it- it will reward you later.
You can remove that screw(starter cover) under camchain tensioner with mini vicegrips- I did. Make sure you spend the time scraping old stator cover gasket off- but don't gouge metal !- or you'll have leaks. I know you got a new gasket,right? and screws? You might want to use a dab of glue(on cover) to hold gasket in place while you insert screws. Before tigntening, make sure you check that gasket hasn't shifted.
Valve job??? don't bother yet, I'd get it running. Fact that your cam cover gasket is leaking is sorta a good sign-maybe PO actually checked valve clearances and just used a non OEM gasket - check yourself and get new gasket.. I got the 16 bolt cover and mine doesn't leak.
New stator? what about R/R???? beware the stock one and most of the replacements.
Added info.... Try just loosening that rear starter moter cover screw(don't remove it) and see if you can get enough play to get wires thru. It's a PITA to get it started if you remove it
You can remove that screw(starter cover) under camchain tensioner with mini vicegrips- I did. Make sure you spend the time scraping old stator cover gasket off- but don't gouge metal !- or you'll have leaks. I know you got a new gasket,right? and screws? You might want to use a dab of glue(on cover) to hold gasket in place while you insert screws. Before tigntening, make sure you check that gasket hasn't shifted.
Valve job??? don't bother yet, I'd get it running. Fact that your cam cover gasket is leaking is sorta a good sign-maybe PO actually checked valve clearances and just used a non OEM gasket - check yourself and get new gasket.. I got the 16 bolt cover and mine doesn't leak.
New stator? what about R/R???? beware the stock one and most of the replacements.
Added info.... Try just loosening that rear starter moter cover screw(don't remove it) and see if you can get enough play to get wires thru. It's a PITA to get it started if you remove it
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kennethleemiller
Guest
gasket and screws: got a new gasket for sure, didn't get screws...
stator, r/r: the stator had previously been replaced (all three wires same color), and when I bought it the PO said that he had recently replaced the r/r... I'm guessing the stator was replaced a long time ago, possibly before he got the bike.. and at some point it quit charging so he replaced the r/r himself in hopes that it was not stator.. at any rate it didn't fix the problem.. and it may need more repair even after I put in the new stator, but since I have a new one anyway, I might as well replace it.. I did notice when I got the bike that the grounding jumper on the r/r was attached to that bolt with the rubber insert, and that bolt was hardly threaded at that.. so I ran the jumper to the negative battery terminal in hopes that would be the fix.. I was wrong, the problem remains..
Thanks for the advice on the starter motor screw.. AND the cover gasket..
stator, r/r: the stator had previously been replaced (all three wires same color), and when I bought it the PO said that he had recently replaced the r/r... I'm guessing the stator was replaced a long time ago, possibly before he got the bike.. and at some point it quit charging so he replaced the r/r himself in hopes that it was not stator.. at any rate it didn't fix the problem.. and it may need more repair even after I put in the new stator, but since I have a new one anyway, I might as well replace it.. I did notice when I got the bike that the grounding jumper on the r/r was attached to that bolt with the rubber insert, and that bolt was hardly threaded at that.. so I ran the jumper to the negative battery terminal in hopes that would be the fix.. I was wrong, the problem remains..
Thanks for the advice on the starter motor screw.. AND the cover gasket..
G
Guest
Guest
Ken, PM me. I am in Baytown and could come up one day and take a look. Not an expert like a lot of these folks, but have some experience with carbs and troubleshooting.
G
Guest
Guest
Think I would stay with the stock air box and just run a K&N filter in it. You get a lot of rain in your area and pods as far as I know don't handle water to well lol.