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Carb rebuild without the Berrymans/Gunk dip?

  • Thread starter Thread starter ironsheik
  • Start date Start date
I

ironsheik

Guest
Hey all. I can't find this stuff ANYWHERE around NYC. My bike is running pretty well except it always needs the choke and takes a while to warm up so I assume the carbs are in OK shape, just a bit dirty. I doubt they've ever been off the bike or cleaned in 28 years so I want to pull them apart as I slowly restore this beast (79 GS850). Do you think I'll be alright just spraying them out with aerosol cleaner and compressed air? Thanks!

Josh
 
"GUNK" makes a similar dip agent that can be found more readlily than berryman's; at least in my neighborhood.
 
Since the bike sounds like it's running "normally", I really wouldn't mess with breaking them down totally and dipping them. Just get yourself 2 or 3 cans of spray cleaner and use the compressed air to blow out all the orifices after spraying them. Remove all the different jets and repeat that process on the orifices they screw into. If you would like, you can soak the jets in equal parts kerosine, transmission fluid, & mineral spirits while you spray out all the holes - that solution makes a great dip for cleaning metal parts.
Since the bike is that old, I would HIGHLY advise replacing the float needles (and probably the needle seats as well) while you have them apart - as they are the parts most likely to give you trouble. Might be a good idea to have some new float bowl gaskets on hand when you do this as well.
 
GS bikes are lean beasts and require choke when cold even when everything is functioning properly.

Considering your bike is basically running well I'd suggest mixing some Seafoam, or similar, into your gas for a couple of tanks to clean out any minor residue.

The general recommendation to completely break down the carbs has as much to do with changing all the O-rings, including those connecting the carbs together in a gang, as it does with soaking to get the gunk out. A complete refreashing of the various O-ring seals is a good idea for those bikes that have the origional parts still installed.
 
Seafoam.
If the bike is running. I'd avoid taking the carbs off at all. Just another opportunity to introduce air leaks. Mix according to the can, you can go over a little and it won't hurt anything. Expect to see a little smoke. Make sure to run the bike so you hit all carb circuits (idle it a little, putz around a little, them open it up a little). If there is a bunch of junk in the tank / lines / bowls, it may clog up the carbs a bit, but you were going to pull them anyway :)
Most likely, it'll run great afterwards.
 
Thanks for the responses. I have all the parts I need for a complete rebuild except for new needle jets - all o-rings including carb-head vacuum seals, new bowl and top seals and new stainless screws. I've already run some Seafoam and it did help but not for too long. I also need to clean the tank which has a bit of rust.

Anyway, I'm the type that likes to take everything apart when it's new to me so I get a better idea of how it all works and know the exact condition. That way when something goes wrong, I can usually point to the cause pretty easily. Thanks for the suggestions. I'll go with the aerosol cleaner and compressed air and hopefully bring them back up to speed.

Josh
 
If the bike runs I wouldn't break up the carbs unless you have a leak in the fuel channels between the carbs. Instead I would open each up and clean out the passages using carb cleaner and compressed air and the jets with carb cleaner and a fine piece of copper wire. Do each one individually and reassemble before moving to the next one.
 
Use the sea foam and leave the carbs intact. Remember the old adage "If it ain't broke don't fix it". Just my few cents worth.
 
DimitriT said:
If the bike runs I wouldn't break up the carbs unless you have a leak in the fuel channels between the carbs. Instead I would open each up and clean out the passages using carb cleaner and compressed air and the jets with carb cleaner and a fine piece of copper wire. Do each one individually and reassemble before moving to the next one.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's my plan. I know if it ain't broke yadayada but this bike isn't running as well as I know it can. Seriously, I have to let it run for over 5 minutes before I can move it ten feet without it stalling. I've already sealed up all the vacuum leaks, set up the charging system, ignition timing, replaced the clutch springs etc. so hopefully with some cleaning and a clean tank, this thing ought to be a champ. Thanks again.

Josh
 
Try what I did

Try what I did

I thought I was going to have to rebuild my carbs a couple weeks ago I found a cheep fix that made her run like a raped ape. All I did was get a bottle of STP fuel injector and carb cleaner not the spray get the stuff you add to your gas. I put 1/2 the bottle in the tank at fill up and went 250 miles that day my fuel milage went from 38 mpg to 46 mpg on that tank I put the rest of the bottle in and filled up again. This thing has never run better since I've had it. It will run out from under me now. no bogging down and no spitting and sputtering.

I'm Sold on this stuff now I will use it about every 8 to 10 tank fill ups.
 
That STP fuel injector cleaner is good stuff, my bike runs really well on it too. Not sure it does much to clean anything, I just think that the bike likes something in it's chemical makeup and just perks right up.
 
good stuff

good stuff

ALL I know is I was having trouble with the floats sticking and over flowing till I used the STP has not done it since.
 
Phil D said:
"If it ain't broke don't fix it".
Click to expand...
Naahhhh. If it ain't broke...you haven't worked on it enough. :shock:


jforce11 said:
All I did was get a bottle of STP fuel injector and carb cleaner not the spray get the stuff you add to your gas. I put 1/2 the bottle in the tank at fill up and went 250 miles that day ... I put the rest of the bottle in and filled up again.
Click to expand...
Same way to use the SeaFoam to clean things up. Only thing I would change is, after adding the second half of the bottle and filling up, put on another 250 miles, then fill it up again to dilute the mixture. I have left the strong mixture in overnight to let the carbs soak a bit, but I am not sure how comfortable I would be by leaving the strong mixture in much longer than that.


.
 
As long as you don't mind taking the carbs apart I say go for it. The O-rings dry out with time and fresh soft ones will seal much better. Even if the carbs are not leaking right now, if the O-rings are the origionals, they don't have much life left in them. Think about it like doing preventive maintanance.
 
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