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Carb Synching Misshap

  • Thread starter Thread starter KRISTI'SGS550
  • Start date Start date
K

KRISTI'SGS550

Guest
Hey guy and gals,
long time no talk. I have been visiting the site every-once-in-a-while but havn't has any real questions regarding the GS lately.
But now I have a dozey. I was snyching my carbs (finally) and two things happened that I need help with. The first of these two is the cylinder sucked all of my liquid up from my first bank of my manometer and most of the liquid from two thru four as well. What can I put in there that will be a safe liquid, that wont be sucked up so easily? I didn't lay onto the throttle or anything, it just instantly got sucked up. Also is there any way in stopping this from happening again? Such as foam in the tubes?
Secondly, I had troubles getting the first cylinder and bank on the manometer to 'settle down'. It seemed to rev a lot higher than the rest of the cylinders. Which way do I turn the screw, between the carbs, to make the butterfly on the number one carb (Furthest left when sitting on the bike) rev lower and pull the same amount of air as the other cylinders?
I hope you all can help me with this problem. Actually, I know you all can help me with this problem. I can't wait to read your responses.
Until then, thank you again!

Cory
 
KRISTI'SGS550 said:
Hey guy and gals,
long time no talk. I have been visiting the site every-once-in-a-while but havn't has any real questions regarding the GS lately.
But now I have a dozey. I was snyching my carbs (finally) and two things happened that I need help with. The first of these two is the cylinder sucked all of my liquid up from my first bank of my manometer and most of the liquid from two thru four as well. What can I put in there that will be a safe liquid, that wont be sucked up so easily? I didn't lay onto the throttle or anything, it just instantly got sucked up. Also is there any way in stopping this from happening again? Such as foam in the tubes?
Secondly, I had troubles getting the first cylinder and bank on the manometer to 'settle down'. It seemed to rev a lot higher than the rest of the cylinders. Which way do I turn the screw, between the carbs, to make the butterfly on the number one carb (Furthest left when sitting on the bike) rev lower and pull the same amount of air as the other cylinders?
I hope you all can help me with this problem. Actually, I know you all can help me with this problem. I can't wait to read your responses.
Until then, thank you again!

Cory
Click to expand...

If it's a home made manomometer your tubes may be too short.

Transmission oil has been used as well as fork oil.

Hope this helps.
 
It's not homemade. The hoses are about 30". I have read using transmission oil and fork oil. But are these safe for the engine? Just in case it get's sucked up again?

Oh, and it's a MotionPro.

Cory
 
The motion pro unit I have comes with 4 plastic restrictors that go in the tubes. The older motion pro unit is filled with mercury. I'm not sure if you can purchase this anymore, try e-bay or google. If you have a friend that works in a chem lab they might be able to get you some.The new motion pro unit use a non mercury fluid which I'm not sure if it is compatible with the older units.
 
try installing in line valves or clamp the lines to restrict the suction or make a manometer like this VFRD > Homemade Manometer

I made one like it from the link and it works...used new 10W-30 weight motor oil in mine.
 
synchronizing woes

synchronizing woes

I bought a morgan carbtune pro and I will never go back to one of those liquid units! Just my opinion
 
If you need mercury you can purchase it from Dennis Kirk. The "kit" also comes with the plastic caps to decrease the chance of "sucking" the fluid out of the apparatus.
 
dtkid said:
If you need mercury you can purchase it from Dennis Kirk. The "kit" also comes with the plastic caps to decrease the chance of "sucking" the fluid out of the apparatus.
Click to expand...

Oh, that's perfect.

Thanks everyone!

Cory
 
That happened to me as well, but the good folks at Motionpro took care of it. You might give them a call. I shipped mine back to them and they said that something was wrong with it. Sent me back a new unit. When resynching, the same two cylinders had a lot of vacuum, but it didn't go out the tube this time.

Be ready to turn off the engine immediately if the fluid looks like it's going to go into the tube. You'll have about 2 seconds to figure it out.

Oh, and the procedure for refilling is on the motionpro website. It's somewhat involved.
 
You can fab a cap or fitting by taking a piece of cork, shaping it like a tooth, and then placing a thin aluminum disk and an o-ring on top, and sliding the assembly into a sleeve. As the oil level rises, it floats the cork, presses the o-ring to the top and sealing off the other side.

Yes I know, complicated comparatively, but that is how many professional oil filled manometers work. (dwyer-inst.com).

Edit--found the picture I was looking for

gaugeseal.jpg
 
Last edited:
Fishman said:
That happened to me as well, but the good folks at Motionpro took care of it. You might give them a call. I shipped mine back to them and they said that something was wrong with it. Sent me back a new unit. When resynching, the same two cylinders had a lot of vacuum, but it didn't go out the tube this time.

Be ready to turn off the engine immediately if the fluid looks like it's going to go into the tube. You'll have about 2 seconds to figure it out.

Oh, and the procedure for refilling is on the motionpro website. It's somewhat involved.
Click to expand...

thanks for the input Fishman, do you by any chance have the number you called? I guess I could quite being lazy and look it up. Thank you again!

Cory
 
The morgan carbtune that i use has "restrictors" located in close proximity to the tuner. Don't remember the exact measurement...maybe 4". Anyhow by restrictor, it's basically a solid piece of plastic rod with maybe a 1/16" hole through the middle. The restrictor acts as a dampner only. It does not affect the vac reading, just slightly delays the reaction time. BTW, they work great. A little spendy, but i'd buy them again in a heartbeat.
 
Check your book on the vac settings too. On my 850g w/ stock exhaust and crossover pipe, the outer cylinders have a slightly higher vac setting than the center two.
 
Jon Burke said:
Check your book on the vac settings too. On my 850g w/ stock exhaust and crossover pipe, the outer cylinders have a slightly higher vac setting than the center two.
Click to expand...

Oh that is good to know. I will check on that.

Here's an update:

I went to the MotionPro website and found the brass heads and the refill blue stuff for my manometers. I am going to get them ordered and do this again.

Does anyone have any help on which way I need to turn the screws between 1 and 2 carb to get the 1 carb from sucking up better than the rest of the carbs? It also appears that the number 4 did it as well. So I need to adjust the screw between 3 and 4 also. Just wondering which way I need to turn the screws to even them out? Anyone got any suggestions?
 
KRISTI'SGS550 said:
Oh that is good to know. I will check on that.

Here's an update:

I went to the MotionPro website and found the brass heads and the refill blue stuff for my manometers. I am going to get them ordered and do this again.

Does anyone have any help on which way I need to turn the screws between 1 and 2 carb to get the 1 carb from sucking up better than the rest of the carbs? It also appears that the number 4 did it as well. So I need to adjust the screw between 3 and 4 also. Just wondering which way I need to turn the screws to even them out? Anyone got any suggestions?
Click to expand...

I don't recall which way i had to turn the screws to increase/decrease on the meter. I do recall however, that a little turn of the screw goes a long way. Turn the screw a little and retest making note which way the vac reading moves and adjust accordingly.
 
Jon, that is what I was trying to do the first time, when it sucked all my fun blue stuff out of my synchronizer. I will read the directions again and be more careful this next time.

I have the manometer apart, cleaned and ready for more liquid. I am just debating what to put in there now. I'm thinking automatic transmission fluid or oil.

Any one with suggestions?
 
KRISTI'SGS550 said:
Jon, that is what I was trying to do the first time, when it sucked all my fun blue stuff out of my synchronizer. I will read the directions again and be more careful this next time.

I have the manometer apart, cleaned and ready for more liquid. I am just debating what to put in there now. I'm thinking automatic transmission fluid or oil.

Any one with suggestions?
Click to expand...

I've used anti-freeze (glycol) in mine. However, these non-mercury Motion-Pro sync'ers really suck - maybe I'll try tranmission fluid next. I do know you have to make sure those little brass restrictors are clean & clear, else it's impossible to get all 4 tubes calibrated...

good luck
 
man, these things seem more of a hassle than having carbs that are out of synch. At least those only make the bike run funny. It still ran. Oh well, I will get it taken care of one way or another. I think I will try again tomorrow.

Is anti-freeze ok for the engine if it gets sucked into the cyliders?

Thanks again all,

Cory
 
The motionpro website has a pdf showing how to refill those tubes and it does say to be sure to use their blue liquid. That said, I don't know why some other liquid wouldn't work just as well, since the tool is just calibrated to itself . . . no absolute measurements available.

I don't have a set of carbs in front of me or I could tell you which way to turn it for sure. But I think that counterclockwise lowers the slide. You are on the right track to work left to right, that did the best for me. If you have one that is higher than the rest though, you have to bring the adjacent ones closer to it. If it's the non-adjustable #2, opening up #1 and #3 should help even it out.

My gs550t was very high on 1 and 2, would have overflowed if I didn't catch it. I adjusted 3 and 4 incrementally and that reduced the height of 1 and 2. Keep in mind, I am not an expert. I've done one twin (really easy) my 550t, and a friend's Honda 700s. All of them run much much better, but it was a process of trial and error to be sure. Just keep track of what you are doing and you can always return them to the original settings. I doubt you will though, as even some equalization yields much improved running.

If some of the fluid makes it past the restrictors, I think you'll have to refill the tubes again. I have had some problems with bubbles, and the procedure of shaking the tool down like a thermometer doesn't seem to work very well. I just subtracted the bubble's height when synching, don't know if this is right, it just made sense to me.
 
The bubbles were my other problem. That is another reason I wanted to put a different liquid in. I thought oil or something else would be heavier and bubble less. What do you think?

Much thanks, as always

Cory
 
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