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Carbs and Clutch

  • Thread starter Thread starter akreider
  • Start date Start date
A

akreider

Guest
I got a two part problem here. First my bike is backfiring only through the number 4 carb every so often when the throttle is closed. I am thinking that slow system on that carb could be clogged, so I will take it off and clean it out. Does that sound about right?

And my other problem is with my clutch. When I am riding and then open the throttle all the way, my bike doesnt accelerate the engine just revs real high. But when I accelerate hard but do not open the throttle all of the way my bike accelerates just fine. It just feels like there is not enough clutch pressure to transfer the power to the tranny. I checked my clutch cable and it is adjusted properly. Is there any other adjustments I can make to the clutch without having to upgrade to stiffer clutch springs. I added a lot of power to my bike with kn pods, stage 3 dynojet kit, performance 4-1 exhaust, and a yoshi pipe. I thought that the stock clutch would of been able to handle the power increase. It doesnt have that much wear on it, the bike has only 19000 miles. Thanks everyone

Adam
 
Or instead of the clutch springs could worn friction plates cause this problem? I am thinking of just getting an APE Clutch kit H/D clutch kit off of ebay.
 
Backfiring is the textbook sign of an intake or exhaust leak.

As far as your clutch, you would most likely get the best results by simply replacing the old tired springs with new OEM springs -- no need for heavy-duty stuff, really, even with your intake and exhaust work.

Your original clutch springs are almost certainly sagged far below the free length limit spec. It's not so much mileage as 20+ years under pressure that causes them to sag. Clutch springs are pretty cheap, so I'd try that first before going to a heavier clutch pull from heavy duty springs.

You probably don't need to replace the clutch plates and fibers unless they're severely glazed. Even with mild glazing, all they probably need is a light touch-up with sandpaper.

Even for the manliest of iron grip he-men, a heavier clutch pull makes it harder to feed in the clutch smoothly out of corners or when accelerating hard. The clutch feel plays an important role in smooth, fast riding, and I hate to see people automatically dump in the heavy-duty clutch parts and ruin the feel when all it needs is to be brought back to original spec with fresh springs.
 
Brian gave you good advice about your clutch. This is assuming the cable is adjusted correctly with a bit of free lever travel before it disengages the clutch.
 
I got stuck in a traffic jam on I-5 going to L.A because of an accident. My hand was numb and sore and I only have regular aftermarket clutch springs. Heavy duty are for drag bikes.
 
Thanks for the advice guys, my hands get tired enough from bike vibration in combination with very thin galindo grips. And I think that I just need exhaust gaskets. Because yesterday I took my exhaust off so my neighbor could bead blast them for me and inside the header pipes it was white and my spark plugs were tan. So today after I reinstalled them with the proper torque the bike was worlds better but still enough to drive me nuts.

I got another question, when I took off my exhaust a bolt on the number 3 cylinder leaked a little oil. It did this before from when I first got the bike. Has any one else come across this?
Please dont tell me cracked head, I dont think I could take that with the current gas prices.

Adam
 
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