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Carbs cleaned, how to start up again?

  • Thread starter Thread starter exzachtly1
  • Start date Start date
E

exzachtly1

Guest
Hi all, just finished a complete carb teardown and reinstalled them. Now I am having a lot of trouble getting the bike to start. What is the right procedure when the fuel bowls in the carbs are empty? Do I need to prime it for some time before I try to start up?

I'm fairly certain everything is put together correctly. Any tips? It just keeps cranking and I don't want to kill the battery.
 
Put it on PRI for half a minute or so, then back to on.

It should fire right up.
 
tkent02 said:
Put it on PRI for half a minute or so, then back to on.

It should fire right up.
Click to expand...

Tried that a couple of times, it just kept cranking. Now the battery is dead! I'm wondering if maybe the battery needs replaced, is it normal for it to discharge that quickly after a week of sitting? I only cranked it off and on for about 5-10 minutes or so.

I guess its off to the store for a battery charger tomorrow to try again...
 
5 or 10 minutes is a very long time to crank a starter.
Something is wrong, it should fire right up in a few seconds. Spark, fuel, compression all OK?

You are using the choke I presume?
 
exzachtly1 said:
Tried that a couple of times, it just kept cranking. Now the battery is dead! I'm wondering if maybe the battery needs replaced, is it normal for it to discharge that quickly after a week of sitting? I only cranked it off and on for about 5-10 minutes or so.

I guess its off to the store for a battery charger tomorrow to try again...
Click to expand...
could bump start it
 
um dude that some pretty serious cranking for one wee battery to endure.

Charge the battery and fix the problem.

I am a redneck and use ether as a quick and dirty test to see if a bike will start.
One shot and no more than that. The bike will roar to life and if it does then you need to get the fuel delivery sorted.
 
tkent02 said:
5 or 10 minutes is a very long time to crank a starter.
Something is wrong, it should fire right up in a few seconds. Spark, fuel, compression all OK?

You are using the choke I presume?
Click to expand...

Yeah, choke was on. I'll have to check the spark but should be fine since I just replaced the plugs and checked them before doing this. I don't have anything to check the compression. Bike was starting fine last week before taking the carbs apart.
 
JEEPRUSTY said:
Oh and btw airbox is connected?
Click to expand...

Yessir, everything is connected. Only thing I'm thinking I might have done wrong - when I bench synced I believe I did leave the idle adjustment screw in a position where the butterflies are very slightly open. Should this be adjusted so that they are completely closed when there is no throttle applied? It wasn't totally clear to me in the instructions. Would it cause difficulty starting if those were slightly open?
 
My carbs have to have a tiny opening to idle propely.
I have Siamesed bsw30 carbs though and htye are probably different than your.
 
Get a 1.5 Amp Battery Tender. Walmart has them for around $20.
The butterfly valve settings are fine.
That is a long time to crank.
You can leave the petcock on PRI until it starts if the needle and seats are in good shape.
 
Well thanks for the tips, I'll have to take another crack at it tomorrow night after I've had a chance to get a charger and charge the battery. Unfortunately it may be later or monday since tomorrow is day two of my MSF course and I won't be able to make it to the store until after that around 3:00. Here's hoping it's something simple...
 
Last edited:
I presume you found the screws I left for you?

What did you set for your mixture screws? How many turns out?

.
 
Is the vacuum line hooked up from the petcock to the carbs?

Regarding the main idle screw, the tutorial that I used said two turn in after it makes contact with the plate. It says be ready, the rpm's may skyrocket, so you may have to back it out right away...but with full choke on, it will race up anyways.

Other than the vacuum like, not sure. crack your carb bowl drain screws abd see if they have fuel in them yet. If no, you have a seriously kinked fuel line or some fuel delivery issue.
 
Steve said:
I presume you found the screws I left for you?

What did you set for your mixture screws? How many turns out?

.
Click to expand...

I did! Thanks again for that, did you get my text? I turned the screws 2.5 turns out after fully seating them.

Just a little background on what exactly I've done between when it last ran and now:

  • Tore down carbs per the instructions on bikecliff's site
  • Used carb dip
  • Checked / cleaned all jets. Replaced pilot jets that were stripped from PO.
  • Confirmed all jets were stock sizes
  • Replaced all o-rings with kit from cycleorings.com
  • New float bowl gaskets
  • New pilot jet plugs
  • Checked float height with calipers
  • Bench synced
  • Mixture screws set to 2.5 turns out from seated
  • Replaced intake boot o-rings
  • Reassembled with stainless steel fasteners
 
loud et said:
Is the vacuum line hooked up from the petcock to the carbs?

Regarding the main idle screw, the tutorial that I used said two turn in after it makes contact with the plate. It says be ready, the rpm's may skyrocket, so you may have to back it out right away...but with full choke on, it will race up anyways.

Other than the vacuum like, not sure. crack your carb bowl drain screws abd see if they have fuel in them yet. If no, you have a seriously kinked fuel line or some fuel delivery issue.
Click to expand...

The float drains are the first thing I'm gonna check tomorrow. I suspect that I may have issues with the fuel cock... it is very hard to turn between on / prime / reserve. Maybe it is gunked up?
 
I added the one thing you forgot on your list

Quote: Just a little background on what exactly I've done between when it last ran and now:

  • Tore down carbs per the instructions on bikecliff's site
  • Used carb dip
  • Checked / cleaned all jets. Replaced pilot jets that were stripped from PO.
  • Confirmed all jets were stock sizes
  • Replaced all o-rings with kit from cycleorings.com
  • New float bowl gaskets
  • New pilot jet plugs
  • Checked float height with calipers
  • Bench synced
  • Mixture screws set to 2.5 turns out from seated
  • Replaced intake boot o-rings
  • Reassembled with stainless steel fasteners
  • HAD STEVE COME OVER AND HELP :p
just a little razz for ya Zack....I know you are learning a lot with this bike and doing a good job too. hang in there, you are getting closer every day!
 
loud et said:
I added the one thing you forgot on your list

Quote: Just a little background on what exactly I've done between when it last ran and now:

  • Tore down carbs per the instructions on bikecliff's site
  • Used carb dip
  • Checked / cleaned all jets. Replaced pilot jets that were stripped from PO.
  • Confirmed all jets were stock sizes
  • Replaced all o-rings with kit from cycleorings.com
  • New float bowl gaskets
  • New pilot jet plugs
  • Checked float height with calipers
  • Bench synced
  • Mixture screws set to 2.5 turns out from seated
  • Replaced intake boot o-rings
  • Reassembled with stainless steel fasteners
  • HAD STEVE COME OVER AND HELP :p
just a little razz for ya Zack....I know you are learning a lot with this bike and doing a good job too. hang in there, you are getting closer every day!
Click to expand...

Haha thanks man. I WISH I'd had the bike put together and been at home when Steve stopped over ;)

It's just been such a hectic week between work, MSF and these blasted carbs! I'm tired!
 
exzachtly1 said:
The float drains are the first thing I'm gonna check tomorrow. I suspect that I may have issues with the fuel cock... it is very hard to turn between on / prime / reserve. Maybe it is gunked up?
Click to expand...
oh hell yeah it could be gunked up. messed up petcocks are on the top 5 list of gs issues/neglected maintenance problems. it shouls be removed from the tank and inspected/cleaned. at least you need to see if gas flows from it freely while hooked up to the tank. If its a vacuum operated petcock like all mine are, you just suck on the small line and fuel should flow easily out of the larger diameter line. once you stop sucking(producing vacuum) the fuel should stop flowing within a couple seconds.
 
Oh no you mean I have to disconnect that thing again :D

I found it nearly impossible to connect the fuel line to the carburetor when they were on the bike. Please dont make me disconnect that again haha. Maybe I can disconnect it from the tank end :p
 
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