Carbs on... Bogs....

[Nessism]

The 1982 850 does not have a mechanical advance - ignition advance is built into the ignitor. If your bike has a Dyna S installed it needs to also have a mechanical advance transplanted from an earlier 850/1000/1100.

Once you have the mechanical advance installed, you should be able to use your fingers and grab the black magnetic ring on the rotor and twist it with your fingers - is should rotate for about 20 degrees or so under spring load. It's common for the Dyna S magnetic ring to bind when the screw is locked down due to inadequate clearance under the washer. Play around with the washer thickness until you have a few thousands clearance when the screw is tightened down.

Hope this helps.

 

[Johnny K]

Okay, I finally figured out what you guys were talking about. I grabbed the black magnetic thing and twisted it. Not sure about degrees on how much much it twisted, but was like a tightly wound spring. As far as that washer goes, I dont have anything to measure when there is a few thousands clearance when the screw is tightened down. There is a washer that spins freely around the that nut.

 

[Johnny K]

Today I tried to see if I can get my bike to idle below 2000rpm. No luck. I did another stator test and it was fine. Battery was at norm range and when revved to 5000rpm, it was below 14.8. Meaning it was charging fine. I have new intake boots with new o-rings. I haven't done the WD-40 test on the boots. New o-rings on the carbs when dipped and cleaned. I bought new float needles and set float heights to spec. My question would be take apart the carbs and inspect the o-rings/float height/smooth slide going up and down?? How do you clean the slides if mine don't move up and down smoothly? My slides have a small hole drilled at the base. I guess that is for the dyno-jet III system?? I have never played with the height of the tiny washers up inside of that. Guess just afraid of pulling it out and not knowing how to put it back in. Anyways, I'm still trying to play with the mixture screws to get it not to pop or back fire and rev nice and smooth, but I can't do that until I fix the idle problem that was there before the carb rebuild and so forth. I havent done a valve check because 1) I dont have a feeler guage. 2)Don't have a torque wrench to re-torque the bolts after checking valves. I did this at my mechanics because he had the feeler guage and knew how to measure the valves and shims and so forth. I'm just literally stuck and have no where to go because I've exhausted so many ideas. Any help on my problem is greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.