Carburetor float height adjustment

[Guest]

Suzuki recommends using a "float level gauge" to double-check that float height has been set correctly. This device apparently screws into the float bowl drain Does anyone have experience with this? Why would it be needed if one sets float height carefully?

I'm also looking for suggestions as to the best way to measure float height.

 

[Steve]

If, for some reason, your floats were a bit heavy, the fuel level would have to be a bit higher to give them enough bouyancy to lift the valve to a closed position. This would be in spite of "proper" height being set.

When I check float height, I use a digital caliper. I use the hole depth gauge that sticks out the end when the instrument is extended, hold that against the gasket surface and fit the end of the body of the gauge against the float. As long as you measure the right part of the float, it works great.

Maybe these two pics will help you:

WHERE to measure on the float.

How the calipers are held.

.

 

[Suzuki_Don]

Hi. Where can you get the device that screws into the carb drain plug hole to check float height with.

Cheers

Don

 

[Guest]

Thanks for the explanation. The gauge is good for *nal-retentive types. And thanks for the photos. I've saved them for future reference. I have the calipers, so it should be easy.

 

[tkent02]

Hi. Where can you get the device that screws into the carb drain plug hole to check float height with.

Cheers

Don

Make them yourself.
Four extra drain plugs and a drill...Drill a hole straight through from the inside, right down the center.
Four pieces of small metal tubing, perhaps brass tube from a model airplane shop?
I made two short and two long to reach the 2 and 3 carbs easier.
Glue them into the holes you drilled in the plugs, JB Weld is gasoline-proof.
and some clear plastic tube which fits over the brass tubes.

 

[Guest]

Float height

Float height

I always check float height when I rebuild carbs but there is one thing I've never understood: If it was correct, why would it ever change? Unless the float has a leak (a separate problem) or the needle valve is defective (easy to detect), I don't see how it could ever get out of adjustment.

As a result of the above, I've never adjusted one yet.:-s

By the way, I just measure the proper distance on a skinny piece of cardboard, mark it off and use it as my gauge. It costs nothing and you can't get any more accurate than that...(and I don't think it has to be extremely precise, anyway).

 

[Suzuki_Don]

Make them yourself.
Four extra drain plugs and a drill...Drill a hole straight through from the inside, right down the center.
Four pieces of small metal tubing, perhaps brass tube from a model airplane shop?
I made two short and two long to reach the 2 and 3 carbs easier.
Glue them into the holes you drilled in the plugs, JB Weld is gasoline-proof.
and some clear plastic tube which fits over the brass tubes.

Thanks TKENT02. We dont have JB Weld here in Australia, but I get the idea. Araldite might do the trick, dont know if its affected by petrol though. Thanks again for your help.

Cheers

Don

 

[BlackStar]

Thanks TKENT02. We dont have JB Weld here in Australia, but I get the idea. Araldite might do the trick, dont know if its affected by petrol though. Thanks again for your help.

Cheers

Don

I soldered mine

 

[Greg O.]

Here is a real easy way to check the gas level in the float bowls on the cheap. Just get some plastic tubing, I think refrigerater ice maker tubing is about the right size, and cut it into 4 one foot lengths. Remove the plugs from the bottom of the bowls, and with a little effort the plastic tubes will tread into the bottom of the bowl. Be sure to do this in a well vented area, as it is easy to spill fuel, and keep a fire exstinguisher handy. Sorry I don't have any pictures,but this has worked well for me. I set my floats like Steve does, but then always check the gas level in the bowls as this is more accurate because of variations in the floatation of the floats.

Greg O.

 

[t3rmin]

Thanks TKENT02. We dont have JB Weld here in Australia, but I get the idea. Araldite might do the trick, dont know if its affected by petrol though. Thanks again for your help.

Cheers

Don

JB Weld is just fancy epoxy...

 

[tkent02]

JB Weld is just fancy epoxy...

Epoxy with metal particles in it, very strong. I believe any epoxy is gasoline proof and would work fine.

 

[Guest]

I always check float height when I rebuild carbs but there is one thing I've never understood: If it was correct, why would it ever change? Unless the float has a leak (a separate problem) or the needle valve is defective (easy to detect), I don't see how it could ever get out of adjustment.

As a result of the above, I've never adjusted one yet.:-s

By the way, I just measure the proper distance on a skinny piece of cardboard, mark it off and use it as my gauge. It costs nothing and you can't get any more accurate than that...(and I don't think it has to be extremely precise, anyway).

I've always wondered the same thing. But seeing the stuff that the PO screwed up on this bike means that I need to be prepared for something that is way off. When I checked valve clearance, 7 of 8 were too tight, and several needed to go to shims two steps thinner.

I'll make one of those measuring tools. Maybe out of a thin sheet of aluminum to have a permanent reference.

 

[mark]

By the way, I just measure the proper distance on a skinny piece of cardboard, mark it off and use it as my gauge.

I didn't really want to reveal my system, since it seemed a little rinky- dink. But that's excatly what I do. A nice piece of poster board, an exacto-knife and a digital caliper makes a nice guage that works well for me. When I'm done I throw it away.

 

[tkent02]

You guys are talking about two different things. There are two separate measurements, the first one is to adjust the floats when reassembling the carburetors so they should give the proper level of fuel when it's all put together and running. The second measures the actual level of the fuel while it is running, using the tubes in the float bowl drains. There can be quite a large difference even when the first adjustment has been done as accurately as possible. This quick and easy check can be done without taking anything apart.
Check your Suzuki manuals....

 

[Ironriot]

Thanks TKENT02. We dont have JB Weld here in Australia, but I get the idea. Araldite might do the trick, dont know if its affected by petrol though. Thanks again for your help.

Cheers

Don

IMAGINE! The horror of it all

 

[Guest]

I went to NAPA and found Permatex green threadlock. The package said that it's good for bolts of 2mm and up. However, the chart on the back lists the yield strength of blue, red, green, high-temp, and so on. Green has a higher yield torque than blue. So I kept on looking.

Alpha Sports sells the Suzuki thread lock 99000-32040 for $23.90. Way too much.

An internet search shows that Permatex and Loctite both make a low strength thread lock cement, which is purple. 45 minutes on the phone showed me that none of the local auto parts stores, hardware stores, or motorcycle dealers can order it. So back to the internet. I ordered a tube of "Permatex? Low Strength Threadlocker PURPLE" from a dealer who links through Amazon, for about $13, of which half is S&H.

The following web site has comparative descriptions of all Permatex thread lock compounds. It includes thread sealants, and a "thread repair" material that is meant to permanenetly seal a bolt in a hole with stripped threads.

http://www.caswellplating.com/permatex/permthreadlockers.html

Purple:

OEM specified. Low strength threadlocker designed for fasteners under 1/4" (6mm) that require occasional adjustment. Removable with hand tools for easy disassembly. Noncorrosive.

Suggested Applications:
Carburetors, relay locks, headlamps, throttle body assembly, choke assembly and fuel injection set screws, body panel mounting fasteners.​

Green:

OEM specified. A low viscosity threadlocking liquid that wicks along the threads of preassembled fasteners to secure them in place. Since it is applied after assembly, preventive maintenance procedures are simplified. Ideal for fasteners ranging from #2 to 1/2" (2.2 to 12mm) in size. Localized heating and hand tools are needed for disassembly.

Suggested Applications:
Bolts on alternators, air conditioning belts and distributor clamps, carburetor adjustment screws, hairline cracks.​

Again, thanks for the help.

 

[anikmankar]

Using old Break Bleeds

Using old Break Bleeds

Hi Guys

I used and old break bleed, rethreaded the correct size and pitch. once that was done leave about 6. to 7 mm of thread and cut of the rest of the tread.

Since the hole thru the nut is already there this works perfectly fine. I just use a good washer (not rubber ones ) before i screw them in.

hope this helps

thanks

 

[Dink]

Thanks TKENT02. We dont have JB Weld here in Australia, but I get the idea. Araldite might do the trick, dont know if its affected by petrol though. Thanks again for your help.

Cheers

Don

We do get JBweld in Oz anywhere you can get threebond products, and I saw it recently in Mitre 10.

Dink

 

[Suzuki_Don]

Thanks DINK. I will look out for it. many thanks.

Cheers

Don

 

[slamonte]

I'm still confused!? How is a measurement taken from the drain plug hole? How can you tell where the fuel level is with a tube connected through the drain plug? If it somehow shows you a measurement, don't you still need to take it apart to reset the floats. There is a piece of information that I am missing to make it comprehensable to me.

Sorry for the dumb questions.