R
Raulmanny
Guest
Is there is a test to check the performance of an Igniter Unit for a 1981 GS650G?
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6
60ratrod
Guest
so being fairly well versed in the test of a 650g ignitor, you need a multimeter. and you need to set it to the continuity check setting(the setting where it beeps if the wire checks good).
-MAKE SURE THE IGNITON KEY AND KILL SWITCH ARE IN THE OFF POSITION!
-then you need to locate the signal generator connector that is under the left side cover and disconnect it(the 2 wire connector with blue and green wires).
-once you find it, figure out which connector goes to the ignitor
-make sure you have the spark plugs for cylinders 1 & 2 out of the head, installed in the caps, and grounding to the cylinder head.
-now you need to stick the black - lead on the blue wire.
-once you are at this point, stick the red + lead on the green wire.
-once you've connected the + meter lead, cylinder 1 spark plug should spark(you should hear the pop from the spark if you don't see it).
-then disconnect the + meter lead, and once it breaks contact with the wire, cylinder 2 spark plug should spark(you should also hear the pop if you don't see it).
-if you hear/see one spark plug pop/spark, but not the other, then you have a bad ignitor.
this is all laid out in the factory service manual that you can download from bassclif's site.
there is no resistance measurement test for the ignitor, only this test.
sorry Steve if this defeats what you were trying to do.
-MAKE SURE THE IGNITON KEY AND KILL SWITCH ARE IN THE OFF POSITION!
-then you need to locate the signal generator connector that is under the left side cover and disconnect it(the 2 wire connector with blue and green wires).
-once you find it, figure out which connector goes to the ignitor
-make sure you have the spark plugs for cylinders 1 & 2 out of the head, installed in the caps, and grounding to the cylinder head.
-now you need to stick the black - lead on the blue wire.
-once you are at this point, stick the red + lead on the green wire.
-once you've connected the + meter lead, cylinder 1 spark plug should spark(you should hear the pop from the spark if you don't see it).
-then disconnect the + meter lead, and once it breaks contact with the wire, cylinder 2 spark plug should spark(you should also hear the pop if you don't see it).
-if you hear/see one spark plug pop/spark, but not the other, then you have a bad ignitor.
this is all laid out in the factory service manual that you can download from bassclif's site.
there is no resistance measurement test for the ignitor, only this test.
sorry Steve if this defeats what you were trying to do.
R
Raulmanny
Guest
Thanks, I can not find the damn Igniter, and is not the starter relay as I thought
Should be on a metal plate cohabitating with the r/r mounted on bottom of air filter box. The 650 shafty ignitor is very durable, but vulnerable to an overcharging condition by failed r/r.
6
60ratrod
Guest
the ignitor should not be removed for the test! it needs to stay where it is at for the test, unless you have already done it and found it to be faulty!
now if you did find it to be faulty, here are the removal procedures:
-remove the seat
-remove the left side cover if it isn't already removed
-remove the battery
-disconnect the 2 wire connector for the signal generator/ignitor connection that sits above the starter solenoid
-there are 2 10mm headed bolts securing the battery tray to the chassis, these need to be removed. once removed, the tray needs to be pulled up and out simultaneously. there is a rubber vibration dampener on a small rod that holds it in after the 2 bolts are removed.
-what i do after i have it loose, is i just swing it out of the way to the right and hang it off of the helmet lock with the starter solenoid still connected, just be careful not to rip out or damage any of the connections there, part of the reason why i hang it from the helmet lock.
-now look below the air box. you will see 2 components on a bracket with a ground wire that runs to the - side of the battery. those are your r/r and ignitor. there are 2 more 10mm headed bolts that must be removed for that bracket to come out. make sure you mark that ground wire so you remember to reconnect it to that bracket or you will destroy your r/r!
-the ignitor is the angularly oval shaped box sitting on what would look like the top side of the bracket. the other box is the r/r. the screws look like a large philips screw, but they are JIS screws. remove those 2 screws, and the ignitor is off & out.
REMEMBER, THIS REMOVAL PROCEDURE IS ONLY DONE IF YOU CAN 100% VERIFY THAT THE IGNITOR IS BAD!
one thing you haven't told us though, is what is the problem with your bike? you might be pulling out something unnecessarily.
now if you did find it to be faulty, here are the removal procedures:
-remove the seat
-remove the left side cover if it isn't already removed
-remove the battery
-disconnect the 2 wire connector for the signal generator/ignitor connection that sits above the starter solenoid
-there are 2 10mm headed bolts securing the battery tray to the chassis, these need to be removed. once removed, the tray needs to be pulled up and out simultaneously. there is a rubber vibration dampener on a small rod that holds it in after the 2 bolts are removed.
-what i do after i have it loose, is i just swing it out of the way to the right and hang it off of the helmet lock with the starter solenoid still connected, just be careful not to rip out or damage any of the connections there, part of the reason why i hang it from the helmet lock.
-now look below the air box. you will see 2 components on a bracket with a ground wire that runs to the - side of the battery. those are your r/r and ignitor. there are 2 more 10mm headed bolts that must be removed for that bracket to come out. make sure you mark that ground wire so you remember to reconnect it to that bracket or you will destroy your r/r!
-the ignitor is the angularly oval shaped box sitting on what would look like the top side of the bracket. the other box is the r/r. the screws look like a large philips screw, but they are JIS screws. remove those 2 screws, and the ignitor is off & out.
REMEMBER, THIS REMOVAL PROCEDURE IS ONLY DONE IF YOU CAN 100% VERIFY THAT THE IGNITOR IS BAD!
one thing you haven't told us though, is what is the problem with your bike? you might be pulling out something unnecessarily.
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