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CHAIN ADJUSTMENTS;Rear wheel?????

  • Thread starter Thread starter 5RON5
  • Start date Start date
5

5RON5

Guest
I have a GS750L! I've only had it since Nov. & have put over 1,000 miles on it w/15,500 on it now, total! It's in fairly good condition! I thought it a little loose. So, I decided to re-adjust the chain, by moving the back wheel, farther back! But it will not & didn't have the exact same notches on either side when I started! I tried to put it back the same way, but it will not work that way! Now I am afraid it is way out of place & maybe even to tight! I looked good at the sprocket in back to see if the sprocket was outt'a shape & it looked fine. I cleaned all the old grease of the chain & sprocket, then I got some "Bel-Ray" new Super Clean Chain Lube, 'O' ring safe! Kind'a expensive & now, after I discovered, since then, that the chain was rusting some! So I used it again! Now it's damn near gone! Just twice & that's it! I noticed when I was moving the bike yesterday, that I heard the chain & sprocket clicking -click-click-click, when I pushed the bike from one place to another! Like the chain was in a bind! Sounded like it was putting a bind on the chain, against the front sprocket! In neutral. Now I'm afraid to ride it & all I can see in my head is the damn thing breaking apart & cutting off my head in the process! Or that I might brake the chain, & have to replace it, which would be worse that getting killed! Does anybody know what I should do? The left side, on the adjuster, is like 1-1&1/2! The left side is at 4!!! Sounds like it should be out a bunch! Maybe it slipped some. But it was never even on both sides, it won't even work even! Any ideas?
 
Bike on center stand, in neutral, spin rear wheel till you find the tightest spot on the chain, & keep it there. Loosen the axel nut, till it's loose. adjust the left adjuster till there is apprx. 1/2" of slack, up & down movement, measured 1/2 way between the front & rear sprocket. Adjust the right side, to match the left, by the marks. If the mark on the right needs to go backward, loosen the locknut on the adjuster, then move the axel backward, by tightening the adjuster bolt. If the right side needs to go foreward, loosen the locknut then back the adjuster bolt out. Either push, kick, or drive the right side of the axel foreward, till it goes past the matching mark for the left side. Now thighten the adjuster bolt, till the marks for the right side matches the marks on the left side. Now tighten the axel nut securely, be sure the adjuster bolts are snug, then tighten the lock nuts on both the adjuster bolts. Now recheck the chain. 1/2" slack, when the chain is at tightest, & marks on both of the adjusters are on the same on both sides
 
The marks can be off - it's best to check the alignment of the wheels visually. You can get down behind the bike and line up the wheels and see if the rear wheel is aligned with the front. You can do the same thing using some string or a straight edge - although sometimes it's difficult with the center stand down.
 
1/2" chain slack is too tight. It makes no difference whether it's the tightest part of the chain or a new chain. Chain specs usually call for 20-30mm (.8 to 1.2 in.). Overtightening the chain will cause unnecessary resistance and stress. It will wear the chain and sprockets out at an accelerated rate.

You will have fewer problems and wear running the chain slack at the looser end of the suggested range.
 
I usually find difficult to see if my rear wheel is aligned good just by looking at it, I usually measure the distance between the tire and the rear fork, the wheel should be in the middle of it so the distance should be the same.
 
Do an internet search for motorcycle string alignment. Do not trust the marks.
 
Agreed, 1/2" is normally too tight, but with a kinked chain, as it seems 5RON5 has, 1/2" at the tightest spot will be more than that everywhere else, may be as much as 2" at the loosest spot, depending on the kinks. Just my opinion.
 
rphillips said:
Agreed, 1/2" is normally too tight, but with a kinked chain, as it seems 5RON5 has, 1/2" at the tightest spot will be more than that everywhere else, may be as much as 2" at the loosest spot, depending on the kinks. Just my opinion.
Click to expand...

If a chain is kinked or badly stretched, it should be replaced immediately before the sprockets are ruined. I would not tighten the chain slack to 1/2" even with a stretched chain. It will create a lot of resistance at that point and will amplify the annoying pulse every time the chain passes through the tight spot.

The chain should be adjusted at the tightest spot, but at the full spec. Attempting to compensate for a stretched chain by overtightening the tight spot exacerbates the problem. More chains are probably ruined and stretched by overtightening than anything else except perhaps failure to lubricate.
 
When installing or adjusting a chain, I put the bike on the centerstand and rotate the rear wheel to find the tightest point in the chain. At the tightest
point, placing a finger in the middle of the lower chain run, I set the chain so that I can move it up and down with one finger, 1" above centerline and 1" below centerline. The chain moves up and down a total distance of 2".
I get 20 to 25K miles on a chain on the 1150. I have about 8 thousand miles on the chain now on the bike and I have not needed to adjust it since I installed it.
I probably will only need to adjust it twice before reaching 25K miles. The limit of adjustment on a chain before it is stretched beyond specifications and considered worn out is equal to 1 1/2 marks on the rear wheel/swingarm adjuster graduations/scale.

The number 1 cause of short chain and sprocket life is setting the chain too tight. A chain does NOT require pretension to operate correctly. It is self tensioning relative to operation.
The only reasons to tighten the chain are, you dont want it so loose that it can be thrown off the sprockets, you dont want it loose enough that it can rub the swingarm cross member, and you dont want it loose enough that it makes shifting gears jerky. The chain is best preserved by running it as loose as the above considerations will allow.

Earl


rphillips said:
Agreed, 1/2" is normally too tight, but with a kinked chain, as it seems 5RON5 has, 1/2" at the tightest spot will be more than that everywhere else, may be as much as 2" at the loosest spot, depending on the kinks. Just my opinion.
Click to expand...
 
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The more important measurement is the amount of slack when the bike is on the ground with a rider sitting on it.

The problem with measuring on the stand is the weight of the rider, the length of swing arm, the distance between the front sprocket and the sswing arm pivot, and the amount of shock travel cause significant variation between bikes.

Normally you want approximately 3/4" to 1 1/4" total up/down play depending on the length of the chain. Some of the bikes (like the 1150's) have very long chains - so it's best to check the the manual for your bike to be sure.
 
(The more important measurement is the amount of slack when the bike is on the ground with a rider sitting on it.) ...........You are correct. Its rather difficult to sit on a bike with your full weight and measure the slack in the chain. With the suspension loaded, about 1" total slack is fine. Setting two inches when the bike is on the centerstand, results in aproximately the correct amount when the bike is taken off the centerstand and the suspension is compressed with a rider's weight. I weigh 160 lbs and the 2" is perfect for my weight. Heavier riders may need more.

Earl


jeff.saunders said:
The more important measurement is the amount of slack when the bike is on the ground with a rider sitting on it.

The problem with measuring on the stand is the weight of the rider, the length of swing arm, the distance between the front sprocket and the sswing arm pivot, and the amount of shock travel cause significant variation between bikes.

Normally you want approximately 3/4" to 1 1/4" total up/down play depending on the length of the chain. Some of the bikes (like the 1150's) have very long chains - so it's best to check the the manual for your bike to be sure.
Click to expand...
 
Chain Adj.

Chain Adj.

Thanks for your posts! But I tried again today & can not get it! It's really frustrating too! Every time I think I got the left side done, & I got to do the right, it re-tightens up & I have to start all over! It's never ending! Isn't getting the angle right one of most important things I am suppose to get right? Besides the tightness? I am worried about the left & right & the tightness of the chain, but I for the life of me, seem not to be able to get it right! You'd think I was stupid or something! I've been doing cars for to long to remember, but this is my first bike! I am not that dumb when it comes to mechanics! But you'd think so, HA! I have no idea, how many times I read it on these posts or the book! I don't understand what any thing means when they say get out the twine or string! Where do ya measure at-from left to right? & what does it mean it should be the same distance? As what? to where? & how can I just look down the tires to see if it's lined up right or not? My chain is not "kinked"! It was getting a 'lil rusty after I cleaned all the old grease off the sprocket & some on the chain! Then i sprayed it w/chain grease, called "super clean Chain Lube-by Bel-Ray-'O'-ring safe! $7.00 6oz can, which is all but gone after just 2 douching! So people, either I'm missing the boat on this, or whatever, I just don't get it! Is my front sprocket suppose to sound like that clicking when I push the bike in natural? To me it sounds like the chain is in a bind w/the sprocket-meaning the back wheel is either left or right to far! That click-clicking may be what's got me completely blank at getting it adjusted right! I don't know, but I really don't want to have to get it wrong & have to go buy another chain! This one looks to be in very good shape as do the back sprocket! I haven't seen the front one. The reason I tried to adjust it in the beginning was I thought the chain to tight! Now I know it wasn't! And I shouldn't have messed w/it at all! I have so many other things I could be taking care of. Any other help will be completely wanted! Needed is more like it! I am just afraid to hurt the chain, I have heard so much about it! Not mention how expensive that & sprockets would be. So anything more will be more than welcome!Thanks.RON..
 
OK then. :-) You have to do both sides at the same time, a little on each side, back and forth. The string method mentioned is just stretching a string parallel to the front and rear rims to be able to check that they are in the same plane.
I dont use that method because I hate having to go look for string. LOL
When the rear sprocket tracks in the middle of the chain, with the sprocket never touching either sideplate of the chain as you spin the rear tire, then the wheel/sprocket assembly can only be straight. (or at least straight to the engine countershaft sprocket.)
Put the bike on the centerstand. Loosen the axle nut until it is not touching the swingarm. Loosen the two chain adjuster bolts on the right and left ends of the swingarm. Back the bolts all the way out. Push/slide the rear wheel all the way forward. (this is so you can check link pins for binding. Be careful not to the push the bike forward and off the centerstand. The chain will be completely slack now. With your fingers, flex every link pin and check to be sure there are no binding links.

To align and tension the chain:
Sit on the floor behind the rear tire and with both hands slide the rear wheel rearward. Dont try to pull it tight, just rearward until it stops. Thats probably going to be about 5 lbs of pull or 2 1/2 pounds with each hand.
Then, with a finger check slack in the middle of the lower chain run. You want
1" of slack above plus another 1" of slack below the chain centerline. If the chain is already tighter than that, slap the rear tire with your hand lightly to bump it forward, 1/8" movement of the rear tire will make a big difference in chain tension, so small amounts of movement are needed. If too loose, sit back down behind the bike and pull the rim rearward a little harder with both hands. Check chain slack again. Repeat until you have the 2" of total slack.
Once you have the slack correct, tighten the rear axle nut as tight as you can with only your fingers. The bike should be in neutral. Spin the rear wheel with your hand and watch the rear sprocket. The chain should track center on the sprocket. Bump the front of the tire either left or right and spin the rear wheel again, repeat until sprocket tracking is centered. Once centered, recheck the slack in the chain. If you need to pull the axle further rearward, turn the adjuster bolts with your fingers aprox 1/4 turn on each side going from side to side. If axle placement and chain tension was OK without touching the adjuster bolts, then turn the adjuster bolts on the swingarm down with you FINGERS until they just touch. Do NOT try to tighten them. Once the adjuster bolts are just touching the rear of the swingarm, the axle position in the swingarm cannot change. Tighten the rear axle nut and put the cotter pin in it. Now, snug down the jamb nuts on the adjuster bolts.
You should now have a rear wheel tracking with the chain centered on the sprocket as you by hand spin the rear wheel and you should have 1" slack above and below on the lower run of the chain at center of the run.

Earl

5RON5 said:
Thanks for your posts! But I tried again today & can not get it! It's really frustrating too! Every time I think I got the left side done, & I got to do the right, it re-tightens up & I have to start all over!
Click to expand...
 
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Take off your chainguard
Push the bottom of the chain upwards to take out the slack
From the rear sprocket on look down the length of the chain (top side)
Now you can see even the slightest kink and to which side you have too adjust.
 
Chain!

Chain!

AHH! There ya go! Now maybe I can see the thing! Ya know, the first time I did it, that's what I did, I took off the guard. But failed to look to see if it was straight or not! I won't make the same mistake again! Thank you for your input! I will try everything I am suppose to this time! Thanks! Ron...
 
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