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Chain Life

  • Thread starter Thread starter J_C
  • Start date Start date
J

J_C

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Not another one of THESE threads!!

My old 630 chain is a little long in the tooth. The orings all appear to be intact, but upon close inspection you can see cracking etc of the oring material. How can I tell if I need a new 630 chain?

My 630 sprockets look pretty good, so I'm not financially inclined to do a conversion right now (Plus I can't get the front sprocket off).

In order to get the chain back on I'll need to break the rivet link and replace with a new masterlink. I'm trying to decide whether it makes more sense to buy a new chain now or to get a new masterlink and see if it holds out? Or would it be cheaper to just do the conversion and be done with it? Has anyone done this research?


Thanks! :)
 
I just recently replaced my 630 chain with the same. My old one, which was a non-O-ring that I neglected somewhat, had a real tight spot. As I rotated the rear wheel, the chain slack would change from 1/2 inch to 1 1/2 inch and back. I went with a D.I.D 630V O-ring chain for $140. It came with a master link. People have their opinions on these, but if it's installed correctly, I think they are fine.

One of the reasons I personally stayed with the 630 size is, that for various reasons, this will be the last chain and sprockets I will ever put on this bike. It was simple to just do a direct replacement. I don't have any problem myself with a 630 chain setup, and for my situation, there is no advantage with a 530 setup.

Maybe you want to consider how much mileage you intend to put on the bike. That may influence whether to get a new chain now or wait a while.

Besides the tight spots, check for tight links, and see how close you are to the adjustment limit.
 
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Being the cheap sucker that I am :oops: I'd keep lubing it and wait til she starts stretching. Then replace it. 5 or 6 bucks for a master and away I'd go. I mean depending how much you ride a couple thousand miles may take you well into next years riding season. And that chain may take you there. As long as those o-rings are holding the grease in the rollers you are fine. As long as the teeth are fine and it isn't stretched too much so as to make the teeth and links misalign I'd ride it. Others may say different but it's just my opinion.
 
J_C said:
Not another one of THESE threads!!

My old 630 chain is a little long in the tooth. The orings all appear to be intact, but upon close inspection you can see cracking etc of the oring material. How can I tell if I need a new 630 chain?

My 630 sprockets look pretty good, so I'm not financially inclined to do a conversion right now (Plus I can't get the front sprocket off).

In order to get the chain back on I'll need to break the rivet link and replace with a new masterlink. I'm trying to decide whether it makes more sense to buy a new chain now or to get a new masterlink and see if it holds out? Or would it be cheaper to just do the conversion and be done with it? Has anyone done this research?


Thanks! :)
Click to expand...

Why do you need to break the rivet link to put the chain back on? Unless you removed the swing arm and removed the chain from the bike and replaced the swing arm, you should be able to put the endless chain back on the same way you took it off.:confused:

As mentioned, if the chain isn't binding (frozen links) and isn't past wear limits it may be servicable. The wear that causes the chain to have excessive tightness and then looseness as the chain is rotated is another issue, and is cause for replacement. This condition will wear out the sprockets, and is a general PIA because it affects handling feel. A motorcycle won't run smoothly with the chain cycling from tight to loose, as well as this symptom being a sign of eventual chain failure.

I would clean and lube the chain that you have and continue to use it if it is serviceable. Since the availability of 630 chains has diminished, they are getting harder to find at a good price. Since your sprockets are OK, I would buy a new chain just for backup. You can get a new 11,100 lbs. tensile strength O-ring chain with a 20,000 mile guarantee for about $85 at RK 630SO O-ring Chain at Chaparral Motorsports. Shipping is only $6, but if the total order is over $100, shipping is free.
 
Chain and sprockets must be replaced as a set!!! run it until it is worn out and then replace the set.

Dink
 
Dink said:
Chain and sprockets must be replaced as a set!!! run it until it is worn out and then replace the set.

Dink
Click to expand...

There is a lot of "must be" advice regarding motorcycles, and there are many exceptions.

Sprocket replacement is what the retailers and manufacturers would prefer. It's not a safety issue, but a potential excessive chain wear issue if a worn out sprocket is used with a new chain. If the sprockets are inspected and found to be serviceable and within limits, they may be used again with a new chain. If the sprocket is in good condition, it won't rapidly wear out the new chain as the scare story goes. A sprocket with excessive wear is another story and should be replaced.

Replacing the sprockets with every second chain is not unreasonable as long as the sprockets are inspected and found to be usable.
 
Boondocks said:
Why do you need to break the rivet link to put the chain back on? Unless you removed the swing arm and removed the chain from the bike and replaced the swing arm, you should be able to put the endless chain back on the same way you took it off.:confused:
Click to expand...


Hehehehehehe.... 8-[ :oops:


Thanks for the info guys. I'll definitely proceed with just the new masterlink for now as the chain seems to move relatively fluidly even before I really lubed it well. If this chain is in as decent a shape as I now believe it is, it should carry me over for a number of miles and I can reevaluate then.

However, thanks for the great link to Chaparral.... I'll pick one up if this starts showing any problems!
 
Edit: Nevermind, I had to put the order through anyway. Thanks!
 
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Funny, I just pulled the chain off at lunch for cleaning.

It's a non-ring 630. After a dip in some xylene I checked it for fluidity. There were a few tight spots where it looked like the inside link was pushing on the outside. So I squeezed the inside links together with a little pressure from a vise. It seemed to work well.

Was that dumb?
 
To revoice a previous question, what are the advantages of doing a 530 conversion? I've heard that you can't get an X-ring 630 (x-ring apparently being the best there is), and I know that the 530 is universally available and therefore easier to find if stranded with a broken chain, but are there any mechanical advantages? Less rotating mass, better response, longer-lasting, faster than a speeding gumdrop, x-ray vision, full dental, etc?

My chain is fine for the initial "check everything" period I'm planning once I fire this bike up for the first time, but it does look like I'll be buying the sprockets also as my front one seems worn. This bike will more than likely never be ridden as a "crotch rocket", I'm more into cruising than hardcore "damn I scraped the end off of my grip on that last turn" riding. Is the 530 conversion cheaper than staying with the 630? The little research I did seemed to support this, of course I didn't count the price of the "spacer washer" into the equation.
 
I did a 530 conversion and before I installed it I really didn't notice any weight difference. It took more 530 links and I think with the extra links the weight was about the same. You can put a slightly wider tire on because it's a narrower chain. Albeit very slight. The sprockets might be a little bit lighter though. I think you can get more of the "Blingy" types of sprockets (anodized etc.). And my gold x-ring chain does look nice too. Other than that I really don't see a major reason why to change. Just my .02.
 
I'm stickin' with the old 630. She's tough, I'm big, got a heavy wrist. I'll leave it.
 
They stopped development on the 630 chain many years ago. The new 530 (and 520) chains are as strong if not stronger than the 630 chain and often cost less. The best thing about the 530 chain is the wider availability of sprockets and chain.

Hap
 
Hap Call said:
They stopped development on the 630 chain many years ago. The new 530 (and 520) chains are as strong if not stronger than the 630 chain and often cost less. The best thing about the 530 chain is the wider availability of sprockets and chain.

Hap
Click to expand...

Hap, I believe that your statement about the new 530 and 520 chains being as strong or stronger that a 630 chain is incorrect. I also don't think that the strongest chains smaller than a 630 often cost less than $85. These are premium chains and command a premium price.

The RK 630SO is a 630 O-ring chain with a tensile strenth of 11,100 lbs.. Do you have any chain specifications that shows 530 and 520 chains being as strong or stronger than 11,100 lbs.? If so, how much do they cost?
 
Boondocks said:
Hap, I believe that your statement about the new 530 and 520 chains being as strong or stronger that a 630 chain is incorrect. I also don't think that the strongest chains smaller than a 630 often cost less than $85. These are premium chains and command a premium price.

The RK 630SO is a 630 O-ring chain with a tensile strenth of 11,100 lbs.. Do you have any chain specifications that shows 530 and 520 chains being as strong or stronger than 11,100 lbs.? If so, how much do they cost?
Click to expand...

I found this chart from Diamond Chain company:

diamondchainspecs2.jpg


Notice that their 530 and 520 chains have a higher tensile strength than their 630 chain...BUT....the 530 actually weighs more per foot than the 630! Kind of defeats the purpose.

I'll do some more looking and get back to you good people....

Dang you Boondocks! ;-) Ya got me questioning myself...a good thing!

Hap
 
But this is what I would really lie to have:

enclosedchain.jpg


I wrote to Craig Vetter a few years back asking if he knew of any one who still made enclosed chain kits. He replied that he didn't but maybe I should look into doing so.

Hap
 
Neat!

I'd really like to get a chain breaking tool too. Apparently trying to cut off the rivets with a dremmel will not break a chain. Further methods to be tried include swearing, screaming, and throwing.
 
J_C said:
Neat!

I'd really like to get a chain breaking tool too. Apparently trying to cut off the rivets with a dremmel will not break a chain. Further methods to be tried include swearing, screaming, and throwing.
Click to expand...


Once the rivit is ground down, get a cold chisel and CAREFULLY pop off the outer link.

Be sure to offer up an apology for the cursing, I sure had to.
 
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