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Chain Life

  • Thread starter Thread starter J_C
  • Start date Start date
Just to add, I really like the Maxima Chain Wax for the o-ring chain.
I used PJ Blue for a long time because it was so popular but it allows the o-rings to dry out and fall off way before chain life is used up and it attracts dirt more.
 
Great info... I'm using PJ Blue now... On the sportbike it's a little sloppy, spews all over my rim. As for the orings, they're already falling off on the old chain so I guess I can wait to upgrade my lube :D

BTW, the chisel did the trick, thanks for the tip!
 
Hap Call said:
I found this chart from Diamond Chain company:

diamondchainspecs2.jpg


Notice that their 530 and 520 chains have a higher tensile strength than their 630 chain...BUT....the 530 actually weighs more per foot than the 630! Kind of defeats the purpose.

I'll do some more looking and get back to you good people....

Dang you Boondocks! ;-) Ya got me questioning myself...a good thing!

Hap
Click to expand...

Diamond chains are pretty hard to find as motorcycle products, and they seem to be concentrated as industrial lproducts. The 630 MS chain in the chart is Diamond's #60 industrial non-O-ring chain used as a motorcycle chain. In other words, a low grade motorcycle chain which I believe is basically unavailable. The 520 and 530 XLO chains are their top of the line O-ring chains (if you can find them). As you pointed out, their premium 530 chain is heavier than their 630 chain. This is because they make the side plates thicker to increase the tensile strength. Even so, at 9,300 lbs. tensile strength their premium (and expensive) 530 XLO chains are no match for the RK 630SO O-ring chain's 11,100 lbs. tensile strength and are considerably more expensive.

My quick look at Daido (D.I.D.) and EK chain specs show that their top of the line 530 chains are not as strong as the RK 630SO, and again are much more expensive. Then again, they are X-ring chains, and should have extra long life. Nevertheless, a 20,000 mile guarantee with overkill tensile strength such as comes with the RK 630SO for $85 is very hard to beat in practical terms.:)
 
Hap Call said:
But this is what I would really lie to have:

enclosedchain.jpg


I wrote to Craig Vetter a few years back asking if he knew of any one who still made enclosed chain kits. He replied that he didn't but maybe I should look into doing so.

Hap
Click to expand...

Hap, I share your dream. I've wished for this for many years, and have daydreamed about making one. A fully enclosed chain drive solves many inherent maintenance and wear issues when chains are used in a harsh and dirty environment, such as motorcycling.

If you find an application that will work for our bikes, let me know.:)
 
Chain breakers are relatively cheap from places like JC Whitney and Motion Pro. There's one in my Dennis Kirk catalog from Drag Specialties for $16.95, and a complete kit (remove and install) that will also work on cam chains for $90.99.
 
Boondocks said:
Hap, I share your dream. I've wished for this for many years, and have daydreamed about making one. A fully enclosed chain drive solves many inherent maintenance and wear issues when chains are used in a harsh and dirty environment, such as motorcycling.

If you find an application that will work for our bikes, let me know.:)
Click to expand...
I've looked far and wide and the closest thing I've found was a German company called Becker once made them but evidently combined with another company to become Hepco & Becker and now only makes luggage mounting brackets for motorcycle. They mention how successful the "chain box" was for them but evidently they elected to drop the line.

Another option is the Scott Oiler but it is, to me at least, messy and way too expensive ($139).

The biggest problem with an enclosed chain drive, as I see it, is the slack needed in the chain for the rear wheel travel. This is less of a problem for bikes that have the output shaft very close to the swingarm pivot (or better yet, in line with the pivot) but for our bikes, with the output shaft up to 6 or 8 inches forward of the pivot, it is critical. This can be taken care of with a chain tensioner inside of the chain enclosure but this adds complexity and weight to the bike.

Hap
 
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