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Chain: loose, tight, loose, tight, etc

  • Thread starter Thread starter littleroot
  • Start date Start date
L

littleroot

Guest
Noticed after my last rear tire change the chain would slap a little bit. I said to myself, I gotta tighten that. Tonight I did, and then I had it too tight, Then too loose. Then too tight. Dang, I went back and forth. Then I realized as I was turning the wheel it would get tighter and then looser every revolution of the chain length. Does this mean I screwed up when I put the rear wheel back on and I have one or more teeth forward/behind where they should be on the sprocket(s)?

How do I fix this, whatever the issue is?

Thanks!
 
Yup, this is very good maintenance you are doing, checking your chain for tight spots. Check your chain by doing the usual up and down method of chain adjusting. Turn a the wheel a bit, check the distance again. Do this the whole length of the chain. Find the tightest spot on the chain and then do your proper 2 inch or so chain free play at that spot and you'll the best you can be with the chain. Order a new set of chain and sprockets as soon as you can.
 
I hear what you guys are saying but I am convinced until I get new parts if I want to ride - and I was supposed to do about 150 miles or more with my friend in about 10 hours from now - I need to move the chain counterclockwise one tooth of the rear sprocket when the chain is tightest across the top from front sprocket to rear. But I have zero experience at this, it just seems logical to my brain.

azr: I did what you said and now at the loosest end of the chain, it slaps up on the chain guard with very little force. But if that is OK I'll go for it. Thanks
 
Slaps all the way up the chain gaurd??? ummm..that sounds dangerously loose. Like I said, rotate the chain a full revolution, checking every few inches for the tightest spot. Make your proper adjustment at the tightest spot. Then find the loosest spot after you do that, if the chain is indeed hitting the top of the chain guard I would not ride the bike, if it came off the sprocket you could be killed. If it's a 'bit' loose that's not the end of the world. Measure the loose spot, distance between all the way up and all the way down, and report back. Totally understand you wanting to ride, I'm all over that, but I went down on my bike from this EXACT problem, would hate it to happen to you.
 
I reread your last post, I'm not totally understanding your process of checking chain tightness. You are doing it correctly..right?? as per a manual?? your mention of " I need to move the chain counterclockwise one tooth of the rear sprocket when the chain is tightest across the top from front sprocket to rear" has me very confused. It almost sounds like you're measuring from the front sprocket to the rear, which is wrong.
 
I keep reading and keep thinking of things. I 'guess' you could have done something wrong with the wheel when you put it on, but if the wheel is rotating ok and the chain tensioner marks are the same on both sides and everything is tightened up properly it's 'probably' done right.
 
I am probably doing it wrong but not that wrong, I hope. On the top return to the front sprocket, midway between front and rear I push up and the chain touches the guard when I have it adjusted so that the chain will move only one inch same direction when its in its tightest position. What I used to do is really just check that the at the rear sprocket I would try to pull the chain off the rear sprocket upwards and if it pulls away more than about three teeth the distance from front to rear should be increased. If at any time that cannot be maintained I should not ride.

I need to find a manual or good instructions - I will go hunting on basscliff sight in a few minutes
 
azr said:
I keep reading and keep thinking of things. I 'guess' you could have done something wrong with the wheel when you put it on, but if the wheel is rotating ok and the chain tensioner marks are the same on both sides and everything is tightened up properly it's 'probably' done right.
Click to expand...

The rear was rotating really well prior to this and the bike was ready for tomorrows ride even if I did nothing or so I thought because it didn't seem *that* loose, but I was not checking every quarter turn of the wheel like I am now
 
You should be adjusting your chain on the 'bottom', not the top. Now what you're saying makes sense to me :o ya check your distance, I think it 20mm or something like that, a coupe of inches. Somewhere easy to get at between the front and rear sprocket, on the bottom. Again, find your tight spot and adjust there. How much difference is there between your tightest spot and the loosest spot?
 
OK, got it. I did forget to do it on the bottom but really they are the same. In the same rotation point, the chain is very loose, top and bottom.

Here is the best happy medium I got right now: halfway through the bottom span when I push up the chain when it is tightest I can only move it 10mm. At the loosest I can move it 47mm.

I guess I am *just* within the limit, but I need to get that order in first thing Monday.
 
Your chain is shot. Your sprockets are shot. Replace them.
Thrown chains can kill people.
They can lock rear wheels.
They can crash bikes.
They can go through transmissions and ruin engines.
What part of this do you not understand?
No where in the manual does it say to run a worn out chain on worn out sprockets like yours.
 
I once had a chain that stretched unevenly. If you lay the chain on a flat surface and take about 10 links at a time and pull and push to check wear I had a section with almost no play and most of the rest with plenty play.

But I do suspect the PO had taken a chain for a different bike and added some links from a newer chain to make it fit the bike, resulting in uneven wear.
 
tkent02 said:
Your chain is shot. Your sprockets are shot. Replace them.
Thrown chains can kill people.
They can lock rear wheels.
They can crash bikes.
They can go through transmissions and ruin engines.
What part of this do you not understand?
No where in the manual does it say to run a worn out chain on worn out sprockets like yours.
Click to expand...


^^ This ^^
 
Alright, good job people: I am too scared to ride it now.

I have a 17 front IIRC and 50 rear. Should be simple enough to find on Z1.

What chain should I order?

Thanks again.
 
I found the sales order Z1 created for me from January. I think this was before we discovered I have a 17 front. I still have to take the cover off to confirm

http://bit.ly/1cj5NK1

This is for the 80GS1100E. My other is shaftie

Since the sprockets he listed are Emgo I am going to call my local shops and maybe I will get lucky and someone has one here today in San Jose.
 
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