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Changing handlebars 101

  • Thread starter Thread starter maro
  • Start date Start date
M

maro

Guest
Hey there all,

My new daytona handlebars just arrived from bike bandit today. I am giving them a shot in place of my stock bars. Will you give me a step by step on the procedure for a smooth transition. Will I be able to salvage my current grips, etc?

thanks.
 
While I cant give you a step-by-step, I can offer you some advice.

If your handlebars are large now, going to Daytonas or Superbikes may make a throttle issue appear. When I replaced my stock L bars with Superbikes, my throttle cable was instantly about 80 feet too long, and bound up when I turned the wheel right. Revved through the roof, and was REAL fun on the street (not). Adjusted to compensate, but it's still way too long.

Clutch cable is also way too long now.

Odds are you can salvage the grips, but as cheap as they are, mighsley well replace them.

I also found that narrowing my bars an inch on each side made it slightly more comfortable (for me).

Hope this helps.
 
To remove the grips, try to work a thin screwdriver between the grip and the bars and then insert a spray nozzle from some WD-40 or brake cleaner. Give a good squirt followled by twisting the grip to break it loose. If you use WD-40, you need to wash the grip with soap and water to get the oil out before you try to reinstall it on your new bars. Weatherstrip cement works well to attach new grips.

Regarding the cables, try to reroute them to compensate for the shorter bars. I'm using Daytona bars on my 850 and while the stock cables are too long, they are useable if you reroute properly.

Good luck.
 
Hey nes,

Did you cut a bit of the ends off the daytona bars? Any complaints about them? I was afraid the superbike bars would lean me too far forward
 
cable reroute

cable reroute

This probably goes without saying... But be very careful when routing the throttle cable and test it in every possible handlebar position with the engine running.

I got a cold shudder when I read the post. The worst accident I've been in was because of a stuck throttle cable on the first ride after I replaced handle bars. It's the only time I ever broke a bone while riding.

I thought I had tested the travel thoroughly, but shortly after starting out I got a throttle stuck wide open. I ran out of road very quickly...way before I could figure out what was happening and come up with a solution.

On Monday morning it's easy to say pull in the clutch and hit the kill switch, but in the 3/4 of a second I had at the time it just wasn't enough.

Just my humble advise, but take a few minutes to make sure it's safe.
 
What is the best plan of attack to fix the throttle cable issue? Can you get shorter ones made or can you do like Nessism and reroute them? I have some Superbike bars coming and they seemed like they were taller than the Daytona's that Nessism has....is that not the case? At least they looked taller on another bike I saw...:)
 
Quick comment on the grips part of your question ... I have replaced mine a couples times. The easiest way I've found, if you have an air compressor readily available, is to pry the grips away from the bar a bit like Nessism described and use the compressor nozzle to basically blow them right off the end. On your older bikes the grips actually have a hole on the ends ... you can simply blow air into those holes and most of the time should allow you enough play to work the grips off w/o much twisting.

Good luck,

~ dubs
 
I went to a bike repair shop (read bicycle) and got supplies to make my own out of the heaviest cable they had. I wasn't quite as thick as stock, but 5000 miles and no problems aside from a little initial stretch.
 
I replaced my stock L bars with the Daytona's on my 1000. I bought G cables and still ended up slightly looping my throttle and clutch cables under the tank and zip tied them to the frame to use up the extra length. The other four wires for the bar electricals will also be too long but you can tuck them in behind the headlight. Be careful with your front master cylinder line it will also be too long with the new bars and will need to be re-routed or slightly looped to minimize binding. It is an excellent idea after the bars are on and before your first ride to test the full bar travel side to side to check for throttle and clutch cable binding, and also check the brake line and electrical lines behind the headlight for binding while the motor is running and you are in neutral. If you can have a friend turn the bars you can look behind the headlight bucket to make sure nothing is getting pinched while the bars are going from side to side.
 
gadang said:
Sorry if this is a dumb question...but what are G cables?
Click to expand...

Cables from the G model bike. The GL handlebars reach back to the rider, so they have longer cables. If you put on shorter bars, cables from the G model probably fit better.
 
They actually ended up being the same length cables even though the part #'s were different. So much for my bright idea but I was able to make them work anyway.
 
So more than likely the G model...which is what I have will be about the shortest cables to work with? I just got my bars today.:) Now I am scared to put them on. :P Does anyone that has the Daytona bars know what the measurements are? I got the Superbike ones and was wondering if they are the same.

Thanks!
 
I just picked up a drag bar for my 79 GS550L and am having difficulty with the throttle not "recoiling." Could the cable be binding now that the bar is lower? I also think I need to sand the bar end down maybe and apply some light grease.
Will this also affect the clutch function?
 
gadang said:
So more than likely the G model...which is what I have will be about the shortest cables to work with? I just got my bars today.:) Now I am scared to put them on. :P Does anyone that has the Daytona bars know what the measurements are? I got the Superbike ones and was wondering if they are the same.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
I don't know measurements, but I think that the bars have more rise in this order: Superbike, Daytona, Euro.

I'm ordering some bars soon myself, so if I'm wrong about that please let me know!

I want to move forward quite a bit - I'm not tall, but my arms must be on the long side because when my arms are comfortable I'm practically riding pillion.
 
If your handlebars are large now, going to Daytonas or Superbikes may make a throttle issue appear. When I replaced my stock L bars with Superbikes, my throttle cable was instantly about 80 feet too long, and bound up when I turned the wheel right. Revved through the roof, and was REAL fun on the street (not). Adjusted to compensate, but it's still way too long.
Click to expand...

Always, always, always, do a full stop to stop throttle check when installing bars or running new cables! Throttle should snap closed in every position.

I use a hair dryer to help loosen the old grips. Careful with the screws that hold the throttle and light switch...they can strip.

~Adam
 
I got my superbike bars installed and after a few tugs here and there and a reroute or two I got it done. What I ended up doing is pulling some cable back under the tank and arcing them up along the backbone along with the clutch cable. Then I sat in the driveway with it running and turned the handle bars back and fourth to make sure there was zero bind....goood to go and they look great. I will update my sig pic so you can see them.

Thanks for this forum!
 
ShoeDr said:
I just picked up a drag bar for my 79 GS550L and am having difficulty with the throttle not "recoiling." Could the cable be binding now that the bar is lower? I also think I need to sand the bar end down maybe and apply some light grease.
Will this also affect the clutch function?
Click to expand...

Hey guys, still having some troubles with mine. I took the throttle off completely and just held it in the air and it will recoil at certain heights but not down lower as if it were on a drag bar(no rise). Anything I can do to get these to work?
 
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