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Changing Handlebars and Assorted Other Problems

  • Thread starter Thread starter jager1313
  • Start date Start date
J

jager1313

Guest
It all started with wanting to change the handlebars on my 1981 GS550L. I bought a set of Daytona Bars from BikeBandit, and thought it would be a pretty easy bolt on. After I installed the new bars nothing fit right, all of the cables are too long.

Question 1:
Do I have to change every cable?

I start to put all the controls back onto the handle bars when I find that the total span of the handle bars is smaller and the brake line runs into the tachometer. Below is a picture of what I mean.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc65/jager1313_photos/Picture001.jpg

Question 2:
Is there a way to solve this problem?

I decided to change my clutch cable first since it was already getting super loose. I go to take off the plate on the engine to access the clutch cable and I find myself with a very badly stripped screw. There is a total of 6 screws holding this plate on and the last one is stripped and sits inside a recessed area. Below is a picture of the screw and the plate I am talking about.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc65/jager1313_photos/Picture014.jpg

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc65/jager1313_photos/Picture012.jpg

Question 3:
How should I go about removing this screw?

As I took the old grips off by cutting them off as forum members have said, I noticed that the throttle side sits on a contoured plastic pieces alloing it to move. The new grips I purchased are not the same as the old. Below is a picture of what I mean.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc65/jager1313_photos/Picture022.jpg

Question 4:
How do I slip them onto the plastic sleeve?

I really appreciate any help anyone can give me.

I have been lurking for a while, but pretty much a noob to posting and responding.

Question 5:
How can I contribute valuably?
 
The cables are going to be on the long side but if you reroute them they should work.

I'm not sure but suspect you have the brake master cylinder bolted on further down the new bars than they will be once you have the throttle on. Put the throttle together first and see where the brake falls afterward (most likely it will be fine).

The throttle grip installs over the top of the plastic sleeve. You should use some adhesive of some sort on the grips so they don't slip off. Some people use hair spray, contact adhesive, and people like me, double stick tape for golf grips. The hair spray or glue will allow you to slip the grip on when it's wet, but harden later. If you use double sided tape, use some paint thinner on the tape as you slide the grip on, it will evaporate later and harden up the adhesion of the grip.

To get that screw out you might want to try an impact driver with a flat blade bit.

Good luck.

BTW, I purchases some cables for a 550M (Katana) since the bars are lower on that model and the cables are shorter. Work great on my '81 550T.
 
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I have Euro bars on mine. Similar to the Daytona's I think. I was able to reroute all the cables & lose it behind the headlamp bucket. Couple of cable ties & bob's your uncle.

I had to loosen the bucket & make a sort of loop of the brake line.

I just replaced the clutch cable as the old one was on it's way out anyway & it stressed the instrument mounting every time I pulled it..... I used a GS1000S cable from Flatout. Perfect length!!

Dan :)
 
reroute

reroute

Yes, as stated above, a little re-routing of the cables and hoses and you'll be OK.

One thing to watch for when you re-route the throttle cable: make sure the engine doesn't start to race when you turn the bars to full lock on both sides. If it does, loosen the adjustment at the carburetor end so you get a little more free play.
 
Response

Response

So i figure I can reroute most of the cables as suggested, but the brake line seems to have a lot of slack. I took a picture of it, tell me what you guys think? would it be safe...

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc65/jager1313_photos/Picture030.jpg

As for the mounting of the front brake line running into the tachometer, I simply scooted everything out a tiny bit, including the throttle sleeve. Since the throttle sleeve is rigid this should be fine. The left side I will most likely shove in some sort of spacer to space the grips out evenly.

I removed the stripped screw with a left handed drill bit and a screw extractor. Scared the crap out of me when I heard a snap, I thought it was the extractor breaking, but was just the screw breaking free. Immediately went here: http://stores.ebay.com/Stainless-Cycle and bought a set of SS allen bolts for engine and carbs.

To fit the new grips over the plastic throttle sleeve I shaved off all the little grooves that used to contour to the old grips. I Hope this doesn't affect anything.

Thanks again for all the replies. I owe you all a beer!
 
Sorry in advance but my opinion is that you should replace that brake line and clean out the master and maybe the caliper too. The brake fluid is dark which means it has tons of contaminants in it. Even if you replace the brake fluid the inside of the line and to a lesser amount the caliper and master will have a scale which will quickly darken the new fluid. I learned this on my bikes; replacing the dark fluid only lasted for a short while until I replaced the line and cleaned the parts.

Good luck.
 
Take your headlamp bucket off, pull the hose through & loop it around the back of the bucket or something... That's what I did with mine.

Ed is right about changing the line & flushing it however mine was similar & with a good flush it's ok although I have replaced some of the master cylinder parts. It does get dirty quite quickly but there are no "bits" in it which is the main thing. I just flush it every so often, when you are simply changing fluid it's really easy, no air to dispel if you keep the master topped up.

Dan :)
 
salty_monk said:
Ed is right about changing the line & flushing it however mine was similar & with a good flush it's ok although I have replaced some of the master cylinder parts. It does get dirty quite quickly but there are no "bits" in it which is the main thing. I just flush it every so often, when you are simply changing fluid it's really easy, no air to dispel if you keep the master topped up.

Dan :)
Click to expand...

At first I just flushed the brake fluid through but later when upgrading the brake lines to teflon, I was shocked to see how much scale and gunk was still remaining in the system. Not good.
 
Sure, it's on my upgrade list too. Can't do it all at once though. At some stage.

Ed - I now have all the bits for phase 2 of the carb rebuild, just a prior warning!! :lol:

Dan :)
 
salty_monk said:
Sure, it's on my upgrade list too. Can't do it all at once though. At some stage.

Ed - I now have all the bits for phase 2 of the carb rebuild, just a prior warning!! :lol:

Dan :)
Click to expand...


Ready...set...GO! :-D

I'm ready! Got fan, mercury gauges, and even recently bought that long Motion Pro tool to reach the adjustment lock-screws more easily (it's a biotch with out.

Regarding brake lines, there is a place up in Lawndale that sells Earl's Performance components. Top quality stuff. You can make new brake lines for cheap. No reason not to.
 
That sounds good.... I'll be picking your brains on that one after christmas! I fancy doing away with the middle link & running a line to each caliper individually. Said to give better feel & hopefully more power too (or at least less wasted power as the transfer is more positive).

*might* get the carbs done before I go.. it'll be this weekend most likely if I do. It's the only time left.

I'm going on a belated honeymoon to Belize for the duration of the holidays, need time for me & my wallet to recover :lol:
 
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