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Changing my headgasket -tips?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Poot
  • Start date Start date
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Poot

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Hi all,

I'm going to be changing my headgasket within the next month. I have never taken things apart, past taking my camshafts out and changing the timing.

I'm wondering if anyone has any tips from past experiences that might help me from mucking things up. I'm planning to do it all in one weekend, mnaybe with a little help . Is this a realistic goal??


So far I've ordered the fiber gaskets, but am wondering if I would need any washers or anything like that for the bolts that go through the block (I think theyre orange rubber-like things)


Anywho, any tips would be greatly appreciated!
 
If you can remove the headgasket without disturbing the seal on the base gasket, I would expect you can get by with just doing the head gasket. I've found that headgaskets tend to stick rather tightly and have not been able to remove one without disturbing/breaking the seal on the base gasket. I would go ahead and try and if it works out ok, good. If not and the base gasket line cracks, then you're in the position of ordering a base gasket and another new headgasket. If you end up having to go the base gasket too route, you will also need the "O" rings for the four inner studs and the large "O" rings for the bases of the barrels/liners. Do not use any kind of gasket sealer anywhere.

Pay attention to which washer comes off which stud. They are not all the same. The end/outer stud washers are different and should not be installed in a different location.

Stuff a rag into the cam chain tunnel so nothing can fall in.

There is one 10 mm bolt that holds the head down the can only be seen if youre on your back with your head between the front wheel and the 2,3 exhaust and looking up. Dont forget that one. :-) Dont overtorque it when reinstalling. It will snap fairly easily.

For torque values, use a criss cross pattern and torque the head down in increments of a few pounds at a time. Trial turn the nuts onto the studs with your fingers to be sure they all thread smoothly. A little oil on the stud threads is a good idea when you are ready to torque things down. They must all turn equally easy, or your torque values will be wrong.

You must use locktite on the cam cap bolts. I use locktite on the headbolts also.

If you do have to install the base gasket, on installation of the pistons into the bores, I find it easier to install the 2,3 pistons first. A short length of 3/4" thick wood between the 1 and 4 jugs and the crankcase will hold the head parallel to the cases and make installing the 2,3 pistons easier.

Just relax, take your time and if you find anything puzzling, stop and figure out why. Everything goes together with fingers and not much pressure at all is needed. On a good day, it will take me about 2 hours to have everything buttoned up. On one of my all thumbs, no patience days, it has taken me as much as 8 hours. LOL Not having done it before, I would guess you will need 4 -5 hours if you have to do both gaskets and all the "O" rings.

I dont remember any orange rubber washers?

I assume you DO mean headgasket and not valve cover gasket.

Earl



Poot said:
Hi all,

I'm going to be changing my headgasket within the next month. I have never taken things apart, past taking my camshafts out and changing the timing.

I'm wondering if anyone has any tips from past experiences that might help me from mucking things up. I'm planning to do it all in one weekend, mnaybe with a little help . Is this a realistic goal??


So far I've ordered the fiber gaskets, but am wondering if I would need any washers or anything like that for the bolts that go through the block (I think theyre orange rubber-like things)


Anywho, any tips would be greatly appreciated!
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
hey earl,


yeah, im talking head-gasket. Well, if I'm careful , i dont think i need to replace the bottom gasket. It was the headgasket that had been sweating. but, i'll inspect closely and see if there are any signs of the bottom one sweating.


I'm thinking that I'll have my buddy (photographer) take some digital pics to catalogue the process so we can put it up on the site. but if its explained well enough in my clymers, than f that.

thanks a bunch earl! As my brother has said : Haste makes waste!



poot
 
yep, all haste will get you is redoing it four times in a rush instead of once slowly and correctly. ehehehe

Earl


Poot said:
hey earl,

thanks a bunch earl! As my brother has said : Haste makes waste!



poot
Click to expand...
 
Have you tried retorqeuing the head bolts?

Before you change the head gasket, when you adjust the valves at maintenance intervals, checking the head bolt torque is part of this procedure. They may lose tension from vibration over time and need to be torqued again. If you are fortunate, this may stop your oil weep.

Use a shop manual and a torque wrench to set the correct values. The best procedure is to loosen the head bolts first and torque them in a couple of stages (i.e., 1/2 final value and then final value) following the bolt sequence in the manual. If the bolts aren't loosened first, bolt stiction might cause a false torque reading. I would retighten to the high end of the torque value recommended.
 
im pretty sure itneeds a new gasket, because the engine was run with the oil over-filled for a little while, and its still the original (*70000km on bike)
 
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