Take a small flat tip and gently pry the back off the battery box right where the little pins stick thru. Clean it up and then use some RTV to reseal it..or your fav glue.
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The older style (horizontal tabs) have internal crimps and need to be opened chemically cleaned and crimps soldered.
Old style looks like this and should be opened. If there is a pig tail going into the fuse box then you can be sure there are crimps. No pig tail, no crimps.
The newer style with blade and diagonal tabs are solid copper side. They don't need to be opened just have the external contacts chemically cleaned.
H
HamamatsuSuzi
Guest
It has a 7 pin connector. is that considered a pig tail?
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H
HamamatsuSuzi
Guest
So more cleaning, more contact cleaner, closer inspection. I partly opened the fuse block that had brass plates and sprayed it with contact cleaner. It was shiny when opened. I did new voltage drop test.
Positive lead voltage drop test at idle---0.17v at 5000 RPM--0.08v
Negative lead voltage drop test at idle---0.68v at 5000RPM--0.42v
The results are similar to the first test.
Positive lead voltage drop test at idle---0.17v at 5000 RPM--0.08v
Negative lead voltage drop test at idle---0.68v at 5000RPM--0.42v
The results are similar to the first test.
Your grounding is poor.
See GS Charging health in my signature.
I would also reverse the leads when doing this tests to see if the meter has a bias. The numbers should always go up with RPM not down.
Adding grounds has corrected that situation for me several times. Every time except for once.
H
HamamatsuSuzi
Guest
OK, tomorrow I will make a new single point ground. I already am 1/3 there as I have a dedicated ground wire from the R/R mounting bolt to the battery negative. I will make up a new ground wire, is 12 gage good? I'll attach it to the same R/R mounting bolt then onto a close by bolt on the monoshock bracket. Make up a new wire from the neg R/R to the same mounting bolt. Then attach the harness ground to the other R/R mounting bolt. Is that right?
Clean all the ground loops coming off the harness as well as their connection points on the frame too.
You should bring together 4 soldered ring lugs together at the r/r mounting point
Batt(-) **
R/R(-)
Frame ground **
Harness B/W
** If the other end of each wire is also a ring lug then solder it as well.
If your frame ground is mounted in rubber that is not good.
Use plenty of flux on clean wire when you prepare grounds.
Batt(-) **
R/R(-)
Frame ground **
Harness B/W
** If the other end of each wire is also a ring lug then solder it as well.
If your frame ground is mounted in rubber that is not good.
Use plenty of flux on clean wire when you prepare grounds.
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H
HamamatsuSuzi
Guest
I've made up a single point ground and cleaned up any other ground wires within the harness I could find. I have made a good step forward by gaining more voltage in my charge system. I now have 14.3v at 1500 RPM idle and 13.86v at 5000RPM. It's not right but a good gain so far. Results also improved in the voltage drop test. Positive test was 0.16v at idle and 0.14v at 5000 RPM. The negative side naturally had a better gain with 0.04v at idle ( a 0.64v gain) and 0.03v at 5000 RPM. Also not what we hoped for but a gain never the less. I also don't have faith in the negative 5K result as my multimeter froze at 0.03v. I suspect these tests are hard on the meter as it began freezing and showing half screen during the last voltage drop test. My back up meter is analog so it can't be used substituted for further testing.
OK It looks like your stator is probably on the way out.
The voltage drops are low enough (0.03+0.14=0.17v )with high enough charging voltages 13.86vto confirm that the wiring is NOW good.
Since you are at 13.9v+0.17v=14.07V at 5K RPM I suspect that you are starting to loose your stator as you should be able to get to somewhere between 14.25-14.5V depending on the type of regulator you are using. You are down 0.18V-0.43V depending on the R/R (accounting for voltage drops)
If you do the Revised Phase B tests especially the leg to leg ground tests (while you are open loop) you will likely see the low voltages and voltages to ground meaning you are failing.
If you buy a new stator , buy a new SH-775 as it is probably burned up due to the shunt regulation.
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H
HamamatsuSuzi
Guest
So a dying stator is the diagnosis. Thanks so much Posplayr for your quick responses and unending prompts. You are an asset to our forum. I now have a good wiring circuit for my next stator. Thanks also to all the others who chipped in with good advice as well.
I would not call it a complete diagnosis yet. At this point you know that you are undercharging with a functional R/R and good condition wiring. If the preliminary diagnosis is correct then you will see low voltages in the Revised Phase B and you may very well see voltages to ground. The results of that test would be needed to confirm the diagnosis.
My understanding is you have a new tator on order anyway. You might as well cut/remove the 3 stator wires from the R/R and do the test.
If you confirm the diagnosis then you have a predicable outcome in your plan.
And thank you for following through so far with your diagnosis. It means that we are winning the battle of thinning down the questions and run on threads in the Electrical/Charging Section.
Also you will now have a better appreciation of why the SSPB is designed to remove all interconnects between the R/R , Battery , and fusing/power distribution from the harness and has a well Single Point Ground (SPG) harness to minimize the voltage drops you had to fix. Voltage drops are minimized if not virtually eliminated.
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