charging disappointment

[reddirtrider]

Time for me to open the books and study again.
I wish I hadn't been away from it for so long, it's has made me very RUSTY...

Thanks Reddirtrider.

No problem. As a side note, the wire gauge selected is based on what resistance is acceptable and the amount of current that you intend to produce. Well, these guys also had to take into consideration production costs, so they they probably used as small of a gauge as they could get away with.

The system isn't too shabby considering the trade offs they had to live with. Remember, thess are essentially 30+ year old designs.

 

[duaneage]

It would be a challenge to adapt a field coil system from another make or model onto a GS, but that would involve a lot of changes such as a different rotor. I'm curious as to whether any late model Suzuki engines with superior coil and rotor designs would retrofit to a GS. It would be a awesome upgrade. But that's beyond my paygrade and something for an owner of a boneyard to investigate.

 

[journerr]

Hi Everyone
Thanks so much for all the added info !!
LOTS of details to get into !!

Sorry for taking so long to post again in this thread
There are several factors influencing my delay
a) limited computer time
b) limited time to play mechanic
c) when there is time to play mechanic or computer, I'd rather be doing other things, one such thing is riding the bike, not working on it [[ I have been for another 250km ride since last posting -- I just charge the battery up & just ride //not stop a lot ]]
d) reluctance to delve into this electrical thing -- I am NOT electrically savvy

But.....
with your expert guidance & encouragement
& out of sheer desperation for a bike that starts,
I did manage to get some test results, as follows:

Trickle charged battery to capacity.
Immediate reading = 12.85
6 hours later, still NOT connected to bike = 12.46
3 hours later, still NOT connected to bike = 12.42
connected to bike, ignition OFF = 12.42

connected to bike, ignition ON = 11.62, 11.63 11.64,11.65
connected to bike, ignition ON (try #2) = 11.76, 11.77,11.78,11.79, 11.80
and it settled at 11.80

while hitting starter = 10.25 -11.15
bike running, 5000rpm = 12.06, 12.07 (steady)

I haven't been able to get the stator wires out of the harness to access them for the wire tests there. .... maybe over the weekend.

And, just for the sake of sharing & maybe a smile on someones part out there .........
It was interesting enough trying to balance the battery 1/2 in the battery box, 1/2 out so that I could reach both terminals; this accomplished by resting my right foot on the peg, while at the same time getting a firm connection to each terminal with the VOM, while at the same time squeezing the clutch & hitting the starter button ............... obviously a 3rd &/or 4th hand would have come in handy !!!!

Any input from the above info ???

Thanks again,
Brightest Blessings

 

[Steve]

... while at the same time squeezing the clutch & hitting the starter button ...

One other thing that will help you in the long run is to bypass your clutch safety switch so you don't have to pull the clutch to engage the starter.

It's a very easy process, just remove the headlight, trace the wires that come from the clutch switch into the headlight housing, disconnect them from the main harness, then connect the two connectors in the main harness together, instead of into the clutch switch. Don't forget to put the headlight back in.

.

 

[journerr]

Steve -- Thank you for the suggestion of bypassing the clutch safety switch, and the intstructions on how to do so

GS1100GK -- Thank you for your input & further advice. It is greatly appreciated.
- battery is new in May, but could very well be tired &/or damaged from running it since then with the charging system not working
- my bike does not have a headlight switch, the headlight is on all the time -- were you suggesting to test the battery with ignition on/bike running/ headlight disconnected ?
- I can see the 3 stator wires in a harness coming out of the stator cover/clutch cover seam, I will test or get the stator tested soon and report the findings
- I will follow the rest of your suggestions too, and report back [[well, except for your suggestion that I have to rest my LEFT foot on the peg to balance the battery while simutaneously perfoming other acrobatics & battery tests - that made me smile, thanks]]

Thanks again for the support !!
Brightest Blessings

 

[igotspam2]

When I had charging problems after cleaning all electrical connections, I checked the rectifier then the stator. I found when checking for continuity between the three stator wires and seeing that I Had continuity between them I knew my stator was Bad. There should be NO continuity between stator wires per the Suzuki service manual. Bike wont have to be running for this test. Ordered a new one , easy install, no more problem. Runs better too. If you have access to a manual it should outline the simple tests to be done. Good luck!

 

[reddirtrider]

When I had charging problems after cleaning all electrical connections, I checked the rectifier then the stator. I found when checking for continuity between the three stator wires and seeing that I Had continuity between them I knew my stator was Bad. There should be NO continuity between stator wires per the Suzuki service manual. Bike wont have to be running for this test. Ordered a new one , easy install, no more problem. Runs better too. If you have access to a manual it should outline the simple tests to be done. Good luck!

You should have continuity between each phase of the stator. If you don't you have problems. The rsistance from each phase to ground should be open.