charging help needed

[njbaker2]

So I have installed a new stator successfully, and also a new R\R, but the battery still doesn't seem to be taking a charge. When revving to 5k rpm, the battery only reads mid 12 v, and doesnt go above 13. I have the wiring correct, but have no idea where to go from here. When I test the new stator, it tests out great, just like it should at 80v. Any ideas?

 

[kdo58]

you could have a bad connection some where in the wiring harness, eventually you will have to check out every connection in your wiring harness, and you do have a fully charge battery?

 

[Missile99]

If the wiring is correct have you run the stator wires directly to the R/R bypassing the headlight loop? Wired the R/R negative to battery? The problem most likely lies in your connections. Ditch the stock charging connectors for new ones and dab them in dielectric grease too.

If this is okay then do a voltage drop test from R/R red output to battery (+). I accomplished this by putting a bare jumper wire between where the R/R (+) comes out and the harness, enough to place a multimeter lead there without poking through the insulation. What does it read?

 

[Guest]

and dab them in dielectric grease too.

Be careful how you use dielectric grease as it's non-conductive

Dielectric grease is a non-conductive, silicone grease designed to seal out moisture and, therefore, prevent corrosion on electrical connectors. Being non-conductive, it does not enhance the flow of electrical current. This property makes it an ideal lubricant and sealant for the rubber portions of electrical connectors.

-Dave

 

[Nessism]

If the wiring is correct have you run the stator wires directly to the R/R bypassing the headlight loop? Wired the R/R negative to battery? The problem most likely lies in your connections. Ditch the stock charging connectors for new ones and dab them in dielectric grease too.

If this is okay then do a voltage drop test from R/R red output to battery (+). I accomplished this by putting a bare jumper wire between where the R/R (+) comes out and the harness, enough to place a multimeter lead there without poking through the insulation. What does it read?

Good advice here. The wiring and grounding is a huge issue with the GS charging system, and very few people realize it.

 

[njbaker2]

I may not have it wired correctly after all. I believe I only have two of the three wires going to the R/R/ So I need to by pass the headlight?

 

[Missile99]

Dave,

Thanks for updating this. It is great to seal out moisture with this stuff njbaker.

Suzuki ran one of the stator wires through a loop that travels to the headlight bucket and is a usual source of AC voltage loss. They did it for bikes that had a headlight switch but used a common harness for all similar bikes. The switch didn't apply for us in the U.S. to the best of my knowledge. You don't have a switch, right? The wire comes back a different striped color after the connector in the bucket. Eliminate this loop by plugging the third stator wire directly into the R/R harness, just like the other two. For example, instead of plugging into a green/white wire that travels into the harness just plug into the R/R side of the connector for the wire that comes back, maybe a red/white. This is just one step in keeping the charging system healthy.

Ed, thanks for the +1. Glad to see you nominated for the BARD Award.

 

[ekabil]

I had the same problem, new stator, new RR, no charging. I had the RR wired straight to stator, grounded to battery negative, and the positive RR wire was connected to the battery positive. Once I connected the RR positive to the stock wire - ie where it would have gone normally, the red wire in the plastic block that the stock RR plugs in to - it worked perfectly.

I think it helped to make sure that the ground wire from the battery negative to the engine was not corroded. In fact mine was so corroded I moved the ground to the next bolt over.

Now I'm getting 14.3V at 1500 RPM and over, never even above 14.4

Also, heat shrink wrapping is great for connections for protection and that way you don't have to worry about tape unwinding and causing shorts.

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

This diagram is for a 6 wire Honda replacement r/r unit. If you are using an OEM style r/r unit then disregard the "sense" wire connection to the tail light.

Test the voltage drop between the r/r output and the positive terminal of the battery. .2v (2/10v or two tenths of a volt) is acceptable but anything over that should be addressed. The r/r output goes through the fuse box. A dirty corroded fuse box if often a source of resistance and voltage loss. Clean the fuse box or connect the r/r output directly to the positive terminal of the battery. Connect the ground wire from the r/r unit directly to the negative terminal of the battery. Make sure ALL connections and grounds are clean.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[Steve]

If you are using an OEM style r/r unit then disregard the "sense" wire connection to the tail light.

And if you are using an R/R with a sense wire, check the voltage difference between your sense point and the battery.

I worked on a bike that was overcharging, in spite of a 'new' regulator. Checked the voltage at the sense point (tail light wire, which is usually suggested), it was over 2 volts lower than the battery. Of course, the R/R was trying to get that up to about 14 or so, and was putting the battery over 16 in the process.

In that case, you need to either move your sense location or clean all the connections to bring the voltage to the lights up to par.

.