Charging issues!!!!!

[IanDMacDonald]

Fellas-

Woke up to a dead battery. Went over the bike with the Stator papers, and found no fault with the Stator and r/r. The only confusion I have is the fact that when I do the voltage tests on the stator while bike is running, it says you will get 75+ volts (AC) between each leg. I am getting 28V on each leg. If these add up to over 75 volts, does that mean it passes? I used an autoranging fluke meter, so I'm not sure if it automatically goes into AC voltage or not.

I charged the battery to a little more than 12 volts last night, hooked the meter to my tank and went on a ride. The battery wittled down to 7v while riding. It took me 30 minutes to run with the bike and pop it in gear to get it re-started. The only thing I have noticed over the past day different with the bike is the tractor solenoid I installed became disconnected from it's mounting post. Not sure if that would kill the stator or R/R. I did the diode check on the R/R, and all checked out! So, what the heck happened? THe resistance checks on the stator all passed. Should I re-check the voltages on my other meter that measures manually in AC voltage? I just re-read that stator test. I think my stator is hit!

Thanks fellas.

 

[Guest]

I don't know which meter you have, but they usually have a separate setting for AC and DC voltage. It will autorange the voltage scales, but you should have to select the type. I just looked up a manual that covered models from 21-77 and that is what I got from it. It wasn't a great manual.

 

[nooblet]

I would make sure that your meter was on AC voltage. Not sure if all stators are the same but with mine disconnected, at 4k to 5k rpm's you should get more than 60VAC on each leg, and each leg needs to be close to the same voltage. The stator pages and R/R checks are a great tool. Them along with the guys on this forum, it didn't take long to figure out where my issue was.

 

[IanDMacDonald]

I'll Redo The AC Voltage Test!

I'll Redo The AC Voltage Test!

Fellas-

I'll redo the AC voltage test on a different meter. The meter I used was a F-110, which I believe auto-switched between AC and DC. But, just in-case, I'll redo it with a Fluke meter with an AC/DC manual dial. I never looked to see if it was registering in AC or DC.

I probably need a new Stator though. Ebay has them new for $90. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-...03?pt=Other_Vehicle_Parts&hash=item4cf9e74aa3. Does anybody know of anyone that has them cheaper?

 

[trippivot]

on a fluke there are 2 types of pictures instead the letters AC/DC

one is a curvy line going back and forth.( like a sine wave)

the next is two parallel lines but one line is solid and the other is a dotted line..

the curvy picture selection is AC. the dotted/solid parallel lines is DC


AC has to be 60~70 or more whe you rev the engine 3K or 5K rpms.

28 acv on 1 leg or all legs won't do it

 

[Guest]

I think your price of $90 for a new one is very good. Probably the only cheaper way is a rewound unit. I think there's a guy on ebay who sells them for something like $75 or so. You could rewind it yourself, there is a thread somewhere here that show's how to do it. Ray

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

I probably need a new Stator though. Ebay has them new for $90. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-...03?pt=Other_Vehicle_Parts&hash=item4cf9e74aa3. Does anybody know of anyone that has them cheaper?

That looks like a Rick's Electrics stator. In my opinion they are the best of the aftermarket stator parts when compared to Electrosport, RM Stator, etc. Rick's usually cost $120-$140.

As you can see, the stator pictured above has the stator cover grommet, bullet connectors, and a nice braided sleeve (not cheap rubber like the others).

I hope the stator pictured is the one you receive. Clean all of your electrical connections and grounds to ensure your new stator lasts. Corrosion in the connections, especially in the charging system/fuse box/battery/grounds, will cause extra resistance and heat. This will make your stator run too hot, melt the windings, and turn the AC-producing windings into a hunk solid copper that does nothing.

When testing your charging system, the passive tests will tell you if you have a bad part. But the passive tests will not conclusively tell you if you have a good part. The active tests under load really tell the tale. You might want to try and pick up a cheap Honda r/r unit (compatible list on my website) just in case you need it.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[1_v8_merc]

Got my stator for $90 on eBay.
Great quality, works great.....everything was nice and tight and clean.
(very surprised for the price)

------

Just so you know....I think it's possible to Pass most of the Stator Tests and STILL have a bad stator....same thing can go for the R/R.

What DC Volts are you getting with the bike running at Idle?
(or did I miss that?)

 

[tom203]

I think your price of $90 for a new one is very good. Probably the only cheaper way is a rewound unit. I think there's a guy on ebay who sells them for something like $75 or so. You could rewind it yourself, there is a thread somewhere here that show's how to do it. Ray

Well, you could go real cheap ( and adventurous) and buy a used one off ebay- I got 3 (two suzukis and one kawasaki)- each under $20 shipped. All check out ohm wise, but as Basscliff said, you never know till you expose them to the real world.

 

[IanDMacDonald]

Help me Choose!

Help me Choose!

Going between these two Stators, help me choose one over the other!

The first: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Stat...rcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4155cc3fef

The second: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Stat...rcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43a93f5c72

Thanks fellas.

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Going between these two Stators, help me choose one over the other!

The first: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Stat...rcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4155cc3fef

The second: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Stat...rcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43a93f5c72

Thanks fellas.

Going by the picture they look like exactly the same unit. I've read about a few members who have bought from Caltric but I don't know anything about the other seller.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[Redman]

.
..
... The only thing I have noticed over the past day different with the bike is the tractor solenoid I installed became disconnected from it's mounting post. Not sure if that would kill the stator or R/R. ....
.....

Should not kill anything, as far as damageing anything.
But that solenoid mouninitng bolt is also where the R/R is usllay grounded, and if the R/R is not grounded the charging system is not going to function (even if all the devices are good).

{maybe I should read the other postings.}


.

 

[IanDMacDonald]

. . . But that solenoid mouninitng bolt is also where the R/R is usllay grounded, and if the R/R is not grounded the charging system is not going to function (even if all the devices are good).

{maybe I should read the other postings.}


.

Exactly my thoughts till I traced the ground wire from the r/r and found it properly grounded elsewhere. So, the battery is on the charger now. I will do an early morning stator voltage test once again, to check the stator legs. If they do not check out to 60+ volts (AC), I'll buy the Stator off ebay first thing in the morning. My only fear is that the r/r is possibly bad too! I did the continuity checks on that, and found them all in par with the Stator papers. So, I'll cross my fingers that it's my stator that is not charging my battery properly,

 

[Redman]

Exactly my thoughts till I traced the ground wire from the r/r and found it properly grounded elsewhere. ...
...ly,

THe grounding of the R/R is a valid concern. Best way to check is to have bike running at mid rpm, and measure vlotage from that point where the R/R is grounded and the battery negitive. SHould be about zero point zero volts DC (but 0.2 is fairly good). If there was a problem the voltage reading would be a couple or several volts (and your battery voltage would be low by that same amount). THis is one of the test in the stator papers, is similar test for the positive connections.

Reasont the R/R gounding is somethings a problem is that R/R ground wire is mounted to the battery box, but sometimes the battery box itself is not well grounded to the bike frame. THer is a ground wire from wiring harness, but sometimes that gets damaged. All this is why manyh folks recommend running your own ground wire from R/R ground to battery negitive.

.

 

[IanDMacDonald]

Update!

Update!

Just tested the stator on AC voltage, and 65+ from each leg, all the way upto 90v during revs, each the same voltage. Gonna go ask a buddy if he's got an old Honda Rectifier he wants to come off.

 

[IanDMacDonald]

Parts interchangeable?

Parts interchangeable?

Will a '80 GS 550E r/r unit work with my '82 GS 650 L?

 

[willie]

If you havent done so already, I suggest that you check for continuity from each stator lead and ground. I just tested mine and found the cause of my poor charging problem. Presently waiting for Ricks Motorsport to call me back re: honoring their warranty.
Willie

 

[IanDMacDonald]

Update for the umpteenth time!

Update for the umpteenth time!

Fellas-

Alright, went over the stator voltage this morning and as you read, saw it at over 60+ volts, which is a good thing, as it passed all of the continuity tests as well! I did the diode check of the r/r, and saw that it passed. However, I used the charts from Stator Paper IV, and found there to be an issue of my r/r getting .03 volts on the red lead, when it's supposed to be .02 volts. I am slicing the OEM connectors off the r/r and harness, and re-doing it with insulated spade connectors, same goes for the stator leads. I am bringing the r/r ground right to the battery, as well as re-doing some of the grounds I see near the battery box. I know you guys advocate a single ground point on the whole bike, but, that sounds like a winter project!

I have a strange feeling the fuse box is at fault, as I am constantly having issues with the main/ignition fuse area of the box. I'll pull it apart and see if there is anything suspect.

 

[koolaid_kid]

Will a '80 GS 550E r/r unit work with my '82 GS 650 L?

It should work. Check to see if it has 5 wires; 3 are AC input from the stator, one is 12V DC output, one is ground.
Not sure why you would want to replace faulty parts with equally faulty parts, though.
If you need to replace it, find one without Suzuki's flawed design. Honda R/Rs are well thought of here as reasonably priced alternatives that work much better.

 

[koolaid_kid]

While the diode test may tell you if you have a failed diode, it is generally not considered a full test of the R/R.
Replacing all the connectors is good, also remove the headlight loop in the third wire if it is still present. Ground the R/R to the battery. The easiest way is to run the R/R ground to a mounting bolt of the R/R, then run a decent gauge wire from there to the negative terminal of the battery.
Then check the output voltage at the battery with the engine at speed, it should be between 13.5V & 14.5V DC.