Don't waste your time or risk your stator- get a Honda type (Shindengen brand)- many members have had good luck with these.
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G
Guest
Guest
agreed save your stator and get a honda regulatorDon't waste your time or risk your stator- get a Honda type (Shindengen brand)- many members have had good luck with these.
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IanDMacDonald
Guest
My instincts are telling me to be careful!
My instincts are telling me to be careful!
So, I went to Ace Hardware and spent $9 on connectors, etc, and replaced the OEM r/r connector, and the bullet connectors from the stator, and tied all the battery box grounds to the negative battery terminal. I was getting 12v while the bike was at idle, and not much more than that during revs. However, my battery is not dipping back down into the 7/8/9/10 volts as it was the other day. So, I don't think I have to worry about trying to roll the bike and start it anytime soon.
However, I am not naive enough to believe this will stay this way. I'll find a nice CBR r/r over the winter time, along with a carb rebuild, brake pad replacement, and whatever else. I also have to pull the engine from the Yammie and take a look at what I'm getting myself into with that!
My instincts are telling me to be careful!
So, I went to Ace Hardware and spent $9 on connectors, etc, and replaced the OEM r/r connector, and the bullet connectors from the stator, and tied all the battery box grounds to the negative battery terminal. I was getting 12v while the bike was at idle, and not much more than that during revs. However, my battery is not dipping back down into the 7/8/9/10 volts as it was the other day. So, I don't think I have to worry about trying to roll the bike and start it anytime soon.
However, I am not naive enough to believe this will stay this way. I'll find a nice CBR r/r over the winter time, along with a carb rebuild, brake pad replacement, and whatever else. I also have to pull the engine from the Yammie and take a look at what I'm getting myself into with that!
I
IanDMacDonald
Guest
One more thing!
One more thing!
I just read in the other thread regarding bringing the red lead from the r/r straight to the battery through a in-line fuse. If I am having voltage drop through that lead somewhere (I measure 0.3v), would I not still have voltage drop through the fuse? What would bringing that lead straight to the battery do? Would it cure my charging issue?
One more thing!
I just read in the other thread regarding bringing the red lead from the r/r straight to the battery through a in-line fuse. If I am having voltage drop through that lead somewhere (I measure 0.3v), would I not still have voltage drop through the fuse? What would bringing that lead straight to the battery do? Would it cure my charging issue?
K
koolaid_kid
Guest
It will not cure your charging issue(s). There is no magic bullet. What it will do is maximize the power to the battery (and hence the rest of the harness) without the losses normally seen through a 30 year old harness.
I use a 25A fused line; you should consider something similar.
I use a 25A fused line; you should consider something similar.
I
IanDMacDonald
Guest
Thanks!
Thanks!
Thank you for all of your help fellas! It's more than probable that I need a new r/r. All of your help has been extremely helpful! I'll keep you posted on any charging differences after I install the in-line fuse from the r/r's red lead.
Thanks!
Thank you for all of your help fellas! It's more than probable that I need a new r/r. All of your help has been extremely helpful! I'll keep you posted on any charging differences after I install the in-line fuse from the r/r's red lead.
I
IanDMacDonald
Guest
Quick Update!
Quick Update!
Fellas-
So, I took all of my leads that went to the positive terminal of the battery and put them into a brass lug (horn/coil relay, solenoid, and r/r red wire). I was kind of hoping I would see a little difference in my charging voltage, but, like Koolaid Kid said, it made notta!
I charged the battery to 12.62v and threw her on the bike. As soon as I started the bike, she slowly dropped down to 11's, and when I revved the bike, she would go up to 12v, and no higher.
So, I assume my r/r is shot, and over the wintertime, I will replace the r/r, along with cleaning the carbs, sealing the airbox (or going pods), going over all the electrical connections from headlight bucket to taillight, replacing the brake pads, oil change, etc.
Thank you for all of your help fellas. It is my hope that my only purpose on this site from now on will be to help fellow riders and contribute my two-cents. Michigan riding season is coming to a sad end. Thank you again.
Quick Update!
Fellas-
So, I took all of my leads that went to the positive terminal of the battery and put them into a brass lug (horn/coil relay, solenoid, and r/r red wire). I was kind of hoping I would see a little difference in my charging voltage, but, like Koolaid Kid said, it made notta!
I charged the battery to 12.62v and threw her on the bike. As soon as I started the bike, she slowly dropped down to 11's, and when I revved the bike, she would go up to 12v, and no higher.
So, I assume my r/r is shot, and over the wintertime, I will replace the r/r, along with cleaning the carbs, sealing the airbox (or going pods), going over all the electrical connections from headlight bucket to taillight, replacing the brake pads, oil change, etc.
Thank you for all of your help fellas. It is my hope that my only purpose on this site from now on will be to help fellow riders and contribute my two-cents. Michigan riding season is coming to a sad end. Thank you again.
E
elrico
Guest
Mr.Mac If I missed this:was battery ever "load Tested" and confirmed to be in good condition,I saw you report(before turning ignition key on?) !2.6v at/ start up,has the battery ever shown 13.2v-12.8v after charge and held that like sitting overnight,no wires attached to it:has reliable ground(negative) battery cable to frame been verified also...just wondering..we got a few riding days left in wolverine state.If battery no good and all else is:dog chase tail never catch kinda thing.Just a little hopeing for something..you have been slugging it out.good Luck.
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IanDMacDonald
Guest
Hmm . . .
Hmm . . .
Elrico-
No, the battery was never load-tested. In all fairness, it is a newer battery that I grabbed from my Yammie. 12.8V is the highest the battery will charge. I have sat the battery overnight after being off the charger in my basement, and she held her charge. As far as my battery's ground, there are two grounds for the negative cable: a tiny 18-22 gauge wire grounding to the battery box, and the other leading to a mounting bolt on the engine case within eyesight. I have never tested the continuity of that ground. I guess it would be a good idea to do that now, now that you mention it.
If I took it to Auto Zone, would they load test it?
Thank you.
Hmm . . .
Elrico-
No, the battery was never load-tested. In all fairness, it is a newer battery that I grabbed from my Yammie. 12.8V is the highest the battery will charge. I have sat the battery overnight after being off the charger in my basement, and she held her charge. As far as my battery's ground, there are two grounds for the negative cable: a tiny 18-22 gauge wire grounding to the battery box, and the other leading to a mounting bolt on the engine case within eyesight. I have never tested the continuity of that ground. I guess it would be a good idea to do that now, now that you mention it.
If I took it to Auto Zone, would they load test it?
Thank you.
E
elrico
Guest
Mr.Mac,Yes,Yes,and Yes,go to Zone with batt.at what after being on charger voltage(whatever seemed fully charged) is in it.They will at no charge $, check it on tester device.
7
7981GS
Guest
Add another ground wire from negative on battery to mounting bolt/screw at R/R and from there to the frame.
Report back.
You have already cleaned all of your electrical connectors in the wire harness, right?
Daniel
Report back.
You have already cleaned all of your electrical connectors in the wire harness, right?
Daniel
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IanDMacDonald
Guest
Bastard gave me hope!
Bastard gave me hope!
My r/r is a bastard! They had the "Back to the Bricks" in Flint this weekend, so I was kind of excited my bike was maintaining a charge. Well, that notion quickly died, as I noticed my blinker light was fading, then all of a sudden not showing. Rev the engine, and there it appeared. Short story, I raced it home before I killed the battery.
Got home and checked the voltage. She was at 9.5v. Key on, Almost 9v. She is back on the battery charger now.
I did check the battery to engine ground and got "OL".
Anyways, I was gonna take my battery to Auto Zone to have it load tested, but, there is no doubt in my mind that it's a good battery. I've only had it for a couple of months from the Yammie. I will probably do it anyways, just to alleviate any nagging feeling I have that it may be the battery though.
I guess I'll have to buy a new r/r off ebay soon! I love blowing money on this bike!
Bastard gave me hope!
My r/r is a bastard! They had the "Back to the Bricks" in Flint this weekend, so I was kind of excited my bike was maintaining a charge. Well, that notion quickly died, as I noticed my blinker light was fading, then all of a sudden not showing. Rev the engine, and there it appeared. Short story, I raced it home before I killed the battery.
Got home and checked the voltage. She was at 9.5v. Key on, Almost 9v. She is back on the battery charger now.
I did check the battery to engine ground and got "OL".
Anyways, I was gonna take my battery to Auto Zone to have it load tested, but, there is no doubt in my mind that it's a good battery. I've only had it for a couple of months from the Yammie. I will probably do it anyways, just to alleviate any nagging feeling I have that it may be the battery though.
I guess I'll have to buy a new r/r off ebay soon! I love blowing money on this bike!
E
elrico
Guest
Little battery can, with the rigors of uncountable start up attempts,not being charged by bike system at all/partially?, and being basically, constantly depleated may suffer damage through all of that activity.some batteries hold up better than others,some don't.Have it checked anyhow.You may read reasonable voltage figure w/no load on it,turn ignition on w/headlight and use starter:big load for any battery new/good.old/good.A sub-par no good battery will not accept and store electron reserves,your charging system could be fine but it needs to fill up battery w/energy,a known good battery.A bad battery not accepting proper/correct DC voltage will/can destroy a good R/R,affect AC stator as well,bring it all down,overheat and melt wires etc. Regroup w/knowledge of battery condition at least,if you installed spade connectors triple check them,make sure none loosened up esp..at crimps, are connected male to female proper and none have burned/melted through and have created shorts,opens etc. As was mentioned ,check those negative ground points,neg, batt.cable/and all other wires dissconnected from batt. those cable ends to frame cable attachment point,check for continuity measured in ohms,use beeper/buzzer if meter has that feature too.This solve any problem,don't know yet,but you will know what you/bike have or not,good data/info.to build upon,and maybe rechecks reveal something of note.good weather tomorrow...
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Wizard
Guest
Howdy All:
I had a GS850GL that had a very similiar charging issue.
Always had to put on charger after a ride.
Checked everything. The stator output seemed OK at high RPM, but it was not generating enough at low RPMs (where you actually spend a lot of time).
If you didn't have to power the headlight/taillight you might get by.
You need to see if the stator puts out at low RPMs.
My problem ended up being the magnets in the rotor.
I'll guess the previous owner had overheated the bike a bunch.
Heat ruins magnets. So there was weak output. I could get by if I kept the RPMs way up, but then it got hot quick.
The rotor looks like a small brake drum. I never did get another one, sold the bike.
Another possibility is the stator, being a WYE configuration may have a weak junction where all 3 fields are coupled together, but you would think that each field would put out a different voltage then (resistive connection). Not much chance of fixing that, unless you can see it and beef it up with solder. If you've tried different stators already, suspect the rotor.
Good Luck,
Rich
I had a GS850GL that had a very similiar charging issue.
Always had to put on charger after a ride.
Checked everything. The stator output seemed OK at high RPM, but it was not generating enough at low RPMs (where you actually spend a lot of time).
If you didn't have to power the headlight/taillight you might get by.
You need to see if the stator puts out at low RPMs.
My problem ended up being the magnets in the rotor.
I'll guess the previous owner had overheated the bike a bunch.
Heat ruins magnets. So there was weak output. I could get by if I kept the RPMs way up, but then it got hot quick.
The rotor looks like a small brake drum. I never did get another one, sold the bike.
Another possibility is the stator, being a WYE configuration may have a weak junction where all 3 fields are coupled together, but you would think that each field would put out a different voltage then (resistive connection). Not much chance of fixing that, unless you can see it and beef it up with solder. If you've tried different stators already, suspect the rotor.
Good Luck,
Rich
I
IanDMacDonald
Guest
Hmm . . .
Hmm . . .
Charged the battery to 12.7v, and left it outside overnight, and woke up to it at 12.2v. Gonna take it to Auto Zone in a few to have it load tested.
Wizard- I have gone through the Stator papers already, and the stator checks out, along with the diode check of the r/r. However, with the stator checking out, I just have to assume the charging issue is with the r/r. Thanks for the tip about the rotor though!
Just got back from Auto Zone: Bad battery! I have another battery that came with this bike. Hopefully it's good! It's on the charger now.
Hmm . . .
Charged the battery to 12.7v, and left it outside overnight, and woke up to it at 12.2v. Gonna take it to Auto Zone in a few to have it load tested.
Wizard- I have gone through the Stator papers already, and the stator checks out, along with the diode check of the r/r. However, with the stator checking out, I just have to assume the charging issue is with the r/r. Thanks for the tip about the rotor though!
Just got back from Auto Zone: Bad battery! I have another battery that came with this bike. Hopefully it's good! It's on the charger now.
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elrico
Guest
Little battery;"heart" of DC voltage system.like yours,treat it good . Pulling for You and Su Zu Ki...
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IanDMacDonald
Guest
Good comment
Good comment
I like your spirit Elrico!
Good comment
I like your spirit Elrico!
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elrico
Guest
You might.. it's because it is actually yours, reflecting back.You are like Celtic Warrior w/Suzuki project,BraveHeart:to stick with it,
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IanDMacDonald
Guest
If I was only so lucky!
If I was only so lucky!
Yuppers, put a different battery on her, and she wound down to 8v in a little over a couple hours riding. Oh well, new r/r here we come!
If I was only so lucky!
Yuppers, put a different battery on her, and she wound down to 8v in a little over a couple hours riding. Oh well, new r/r here we come!
E
elrico
Guest
Waz ya gonna take batt. #2 for electric chair load test at Zone... did you ride 2hrs. constant or do some start and go,start and go,how many miles total,wow i sound like some dad or PO,watch out for ballon test,just kidding,maybe we have tea someday,got good kettle?