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Charging system help

  • Thread starter Thread starter Qumodo
  • Start date Start date
Steve said:
There is also a big difference in automotive alternators, but there is still a BIG fuse in the fusebox. At least there is in mine. I have a 150 amp "fusible link" as the first item in the box from which everything else branches off.

An alternator regulates its output by varying the strength of the magnetic field. A stock GS R/R momentarily shorts the output of the stator to ground to reduce any excess. If it stays stuck in "short" mode, you have uncontrolled current straight from the battery to ground. In the stock wiring, that is protected by the MAIN fuse.

.
Click to expand...

Steve,
I think the R/R can short when a pair of the blocking diodes fail (in a short mode) in the rectifier. If it is a MOSFET device then it would be a pair of MOSFETS. I have seen on the Series devices they only switch one leg with a MOSFET and use a diode for the other side. MOSFETS tend to fail shorted and bipolar devices fail open.
Jim
 
wymple said:
"That is what the main fuse is for." I am not unfused in the end, then, am I? Is my 12 gauge wire going to get that hot and the main fuse doesn't blow with all that?
Click to expand...
You are unfused because instead of connecting the R/R positive through the stock harness and fuse, you wired it straight to the battery.

As I said earlier, I had electrical problems when I bought my bike and little experience. These guys got me up and running. I suggest you at least consider and even listen to their advice.
 
Last edited:
Help! I am now on my third Stator chasing this issue, With the most recent stator I am only getting 30V AC @ 6K RPM from each of the three phases. At this point it has to be the magneto...right? I dont see anything else that it could be. The magneto looks fine to be but see pic attached. Thanks again for all the help!

also, all three stators are measuring less than 1 ohm across all three phases.

IMG_3601.jpg
 
Last edited:
Qumodo said:
Help! I am now on my third Stator chasing this issue, With the most recent stator I am only getting 30V AC @ 6K RPM from each of the three phases. At this point it has to be the magneto...right? I dont see anything else that it could be. The magneto looks fine to be but see pic attached. Thanks again for all the help!

also, all three stators are measuring less than 1 ohm across all three phases.

View attachment 59594
Click to expand...

Go back to basics:
1.) confirm that your meter reads 120VAC from a standard household outlet. (if not then replace and re-perform the leg-to-leg test)
2.) measure leg to ground voltages at 5K RPM (This is the most important stator test) You should get zero volts AC. If you have voltage then there is a short somewhere.

I don't think i have ever heard of a confirmed rotor failure where the magnets were damaged or too weak to charge. I have heard of magnets losing the bond and falling out.

A mismatch between rotor and stator poles is the most likely reason for low voltage on new stators. i don't know what bike you are working on but IIRC it is the 550's that have the confusion.
 
posplayr, I am measuring from each of the three phase wires to the negative battery post and reading 30V AC. the stator is not connected to the R/R. does this seem like a short and if so where is it likely to be?

just double checked my meter, it is reading 120V AC from the wall outlet
 
Last edited:
hannibal, yes it is an 18 pole stator, but i am less sure about the rotor. it is the rotor that was installed when i got the bike. how do i confirm compatibility?
 
Picture of rotor, please let me know if this is the correct rotor, it is the original as far as i can tell.

IMG_3601.jpg
 
Qumodo said:
posplayr, I am measuring from each of the three phase wires to the negative battery post and reading 30V AC. the stator is not connected to the R/R. does this seem like a short and if so where is it likely to be?

just double checked my meter, it is reading 120V AC from the wall outlet
Click to expand...

Yes you have a short; This should be open of no more than 1 volt of extraneous voltage.

probably somewhere under the cover. You have to be careful with that retaining bracket that guides the wires under the cover.

You can chase down the length of wire outside the cover and confirm you didn't pinch them anywhere.
 
Posplayr, any ideas of where the contact could be being made? the wires dont seem to have any breaks in the insulation, plus im having the same issue with all three stators. is there supposed to be some form of rubber isolation washer between that stator itself ans the cover it mounts to?
 
UPDATE!!! My charging system if functional! My Dumb self was testing the stator incorrectly. I have 45AC Volts at Idle across the phases 75 @ 5K RPM , an OL omh reading between the individual legs and ground. 14.5 volt out of the R/R at 5K RPM! She is road worthy again! Thank you all for the help!
 
What were you doing wrong? If there is a wrong way, I'll probably find it. Better to learn from someone else's experience.
 
He was not measuring leg-to-leg on the stator. He was measuring leg-to-ground. He even addressed it specifically to you.
dunno.gif

Qumodo said:
posplayr, I am measuring from each of the three phase wires to the negative battery post and reading 30V AC.
Click to expand...

.
 
Steve said:
He was not measuring leg-to-leg on the stator. He was measuring leg-to-ground. He even addressed it specifically to you.
dunno.gif



.
Click to expand...

Steve, If you look at Post #30 you will see I read and responded to that same post.

To clarify the confusion, the question I have is "How after replacing the stator twice (three stators total) and confirming a valid 120VAC measurement could the OP have been suffering from operator error ?"

As it stands, I get the impression that there was never anything wrong with his bike to start with.

So how is it that all these measurements were somehow performed incorrectly and nothing really changed and the bike suddenly now works?
 
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