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Cheap place to get solenoid???????

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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I havent checked around a whole lot, but I did check a few places online.
I need a solenoid for a 1985 GS550LF. Anyone know where I can get one cheap? I looked on Bike bandit , but they want 65.00 for one, any ideas, are they interchangeable with any other bikes?
Thank you :( :? :evil:
 
You should be able to find a 12v. solenoid in a breakers yard. If it looks phsically similar it should work. There's nothing special about them, they all have 4 terminals.
 
Don't know if you have and old one, but if you don, they are easy to repair. Just take it apart and clean it up.

Terry
 
When I needed a new solenoid for my 300, I went to Lowe's and got one for a riding lawnmower--they are almost identical, only difference was the studs are about 1/4 inch longer--still clears the side cover.
Even bolts up in the same place with no modification.

And they are around 10 bucks--cheap fix :D
 
How do you repair starter solenoid Nose? Mine just puked on me (glad to have the kick starter) and I will repair it if its simple enough.

Thanks
Dave W.
Mount Joy, Pa
 
herco said:
How do you repair starter solenoid Nose? Mine just puked on me (glad to have the kick starter) and I will repair it if its simple enough.

Thanks
Dave W.
Mount Joy, Pa
Click to expand...

I just opened mine up, took it apart, watching where the spring went and cleaned the contacts with emory cloth. Put it back together and no problems. It's a simple circuit. It's a relay that pulls a big contact down to make the circuit from one big wire to the other. The small wires operate the relay (electro magnet). It won't hurt to try, it's broken anyway.

Terry
 
herco said:
How do you repair starter solenoid Nose? Mine just puked on me (glad to have the kick starter) and I will repair it if its simple enough.

Thanks
Dave W.
Mount Joy, Pa
Click to expand...


When do we get to Mount Joy, Pa? 8O :lol: :lol: :wink:

Terry
 
Good one.

Listen to this. Charged fairly new battery all night, replaced solenoid with new. pushed start button and NOTHING. Both the old and new solenoids are getting juice with the key on, engine switch on and the start button depressed. If you jump the posts, the starter roars to life. Start the bike with the kickstarter and tap the start button (ever so quickly) and you can hear the starter turn over. What's my problem. (on this subject) I don't have a volt meter yet, but my trusty test light tells me I'm getting at least 12V at the solenoid when I push the starter button. There doesn't appear to be any grounds along the wires to the switch or to the clutch. I am at a loss.

On top of this, my battery isn't charging. I had to stay an hour later at work waiting for my battery to charge enough to get home. Could the two be related, and if so, where do I begin?

Dave W.
Mount Joy, Pa.
 
Jimzdat is right about the lawn tractor solenoid. I just went to Lowe's today and these solenoids indeed bolt up in the same place without any problems. I think I paid $11.99 so it's rather cheap. :wink:
 
herco said:
Good one.

Listen to this. Charged fairly new battery all night, replaced solenoid with new. pushed start button and NOTHING. Both the old and new solenoids are getting juice with the key on, engine switch on and the start button depressed. If you jump the posts, the starter roars to life. Start the bike with the kickstarter and tap the start button (ever so quickly) and you can hear the starter turn over. What's my problem. (on this subject) I don't have a volt meter yet, but my trusty test light tells me I'm getting at least 12V at the solenoid when I push the starter button. There doesn't appear to be any grounds along the wires to the switch or to the clutch. I am at a loss.

On top of this, my battery isn't charging. I had to stay an hour later at work waiting for my battery to charge enough to get home. Could the two be related, and if so, where do I begin?

Dave W.
Mount Joy, Pa.
Click to expand...

Dave, are you getting 12VDC on the small post on the solenoid? You always have 12VDC on one of the big posts. When you pust the starter button, it applies voltage to the small post which causes the relay to pull the contact to make between the two big posts. This applies voltage to the starter motor. You can buy a meter fairly cheaply at Radio Shack. You should get one and do the stator pages checks. Good luck.

Terry
 
Clean your starter button contacts, your off/on switch contacts, and your clutch switch contacts (or bypass the clutch switch).

Hap
 
I bypassed the clutch switch when it first happened thinking that years of use and millions of gear changes caused it to go bad.
I borrowed a friends volt meter yesterday and threw it on. I'm getting 11.98 volts at the small post on the Solenoid. Could that be the problem? Thats pretty close to 12V. The Battery was pushing 12.58V (off) and 12.05V when the bike is switched on and not running. I am going to check and add a few grounds today since I have the day off and its to cold to ride anyway (40 degrees, Are they cancelling spring this year?)
Has anyone tried one of those screw exctractors sold by Sears? The one that works like a screw driver. I want to get a good look at my Stator today, something I have never had to do before. I noticed that the previous owner stripped two screw heads. On TV the look like the work well, I'll pick one up and try.

Any ideas on where I can find a Stator if mine is shot? I can't find applications for my bike anywhere (79 750e)

Thanks for all of the help,
Dave W.
Mount Joy, Pa.
 
herco said:
I bypassed the clutch switch when it first happened thinking that years of use and millions of gear changes caused it to go bad.
I borrowed a friends volt meter yesterday and threw it on. I'm getting 11.98 volts at the small post on the Solenoid. Could that be the problem? Thats pretty close to 12V. The Battery was pushing 12.58V (off) and 12.05V when the bike is switched on and not running. I am going to check and add a few grounds today since I have the day off and its to cold to ride anyway (40 degrees, Are they cancelling spring this year?)
Has anyone tried one of those screw exctractors sold by Sears? The one that works like a screw driver. I want to get a good look at my Stator today, something I have never had to do before. I noticed that the previous owner stripped two screw heads. On TV the look like the work well, I'll pick one up and try.

Any ideas on where I can find a Stator if mine is shot? I can't find applications for my bike anywhere (79 750e)

Thanks for all of the help,
Dave W.
Mount Joy, Pa.
Click to expand...

I would think that 11.98VDC would be enough to operate the relay. Make sure you have a good ground - most likely through the body of the solenoid. You may try jumping directly from the big wire that comes from the battery to the small wire to see if it will work. I'm sure it's a simple problem. Stators can be found on ebay.

They may have cancelled Spring this year. It almost feels like summer here. :D


Terry
 
Terry, thanks for the advice, it took several hours but its done. Tank, airbox, seat, headlight and fairing removed, I checked and cleaned every ground and connection that I could find. I dismantled the strarter switch and cleaned the contacts inside. (spent an hour chasing the internal spring all over my garage every time it tried to escape) :lol:

I also added a ground from the neg. side of the battery to the solenoid mounting. I used a piece of 1/2 perforated steel ribbon for that. I know I'll probably have to replace that occasionally, but its very simple to do. I then put everything back together and measured my voltage. 12.42v at the solenoid with the engine off. Thats only 1/2 volt more than I had but it worked. My grounds along the electronics mounting/ grounding plate had all been around 11.98 prior to installing the perferated steel. They are all now 12.42v same as across the battery at the time.

I started it, using the start button ansd checked my voltage. 2500rpm=13.6v, while 5000rpm=14.6. I was pleasantly surprised. My lights dont even dim now when I apply the rear brake at idle. They used to slightly.

I then created a red-neck anti-theft device. Using a 20amp toggle switch, I put it in line with the clutch switch wire. (was bypassed) With the switch in the off position, you can't start the bike. I mounted it under the front left edge of the tank and is hardly noticeble. I can switch it off and hope that it deters anyone who defeats the ignition switch.

These things helped me a lot and the bike has immediate respone at the throttle now. As soon as I wax the kitchen floor :cry: (all my wife wanted for our anniversery) I'm taking her out and open her up. (the bike that is.......

Dave W.
Mount Joy, Pa.

PS.. how close are you to the Dallas/ Fort worth area Terry? I was stationed in Witchita Falls for a few months back in 1989. Real good people there.
 
herco said:
Terry, thanks for the advice, it took several hours but its done. Tank, airbox, seat, headlight and fairing removed, I checked and cleaned every ground and connection that I could find. I dismantled the strarter switch and cleaned the contacts inside. (spent an hour chasing the internal spring all over my garage every time it tried to escape) :lol:

I also added a ground from the neg. side of the battery to the solenoid mounting. I used a piece of 1/2 perforated steel ribbon for that. I know I'll probably have to replace that occasionally, but its very simple to do. I then put everything back together and measured my voltage. 12.42v at the solenoid with the engine off. Thats only 1/2 volt more than I had but it worked. My grounds along the electronics mounting/ grounding plate had all been around 11.98 prior to installing the perferated steel. They are all now 12.42v same as across the battery at the time.

I started it, using the start button ansd checked my voltage. 2500rpm=13.6v, while 5000rpm=14.6. I was pleasantly surprised. My lights dont even dim now when I apply the rear brake at idle. They used to slightly.

I then created a red-neck anti-theft device. Using a 20amp toggle switch, I put it in line with the clutch switch wire. (was bypassed) With the switch in the off position, you can't start the bike. I mounted it under the front left edge of the tank and is hardly noticeble. I can switch it off and hope that it deters anyone who defeats the ignition switch.

These things helped me a lot and the bike has immediate respone at the throttle now. As soon as I wax the kitchen floor :cry: (all my wife wanted for our anniversery) I'm taking her out and open her up. (the bike that is.......

Dave W.
Mount Joy, Pa.

PS.. how close are you to the Dallas/ Fort worth area Terry? I was stationed in Witchita Falls for a few months back in 1989. Real good people there.
Click to expand...

Glad to see you got it going. It's almost always simple, just takes a little time and effort.
I'm about 400 miles South of Dallas. On the Texas Gulf coast about midway between the Mexico and Louisiana borders.

Terry
 
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